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Ask Cubby’ Category

ASK Cubby

“Hello Cubby, I hope you read and answer my letter. My question is in regards to lipo batteries. Is there an easy way to tell how full my pack is?

Sincerely,

William R.”

Cubby- Yo hey Big Bill, thanks for the email, shoot us another one with your snail mail so we can hook you up with a sticker pack.

So… is there an easy way to tell how much charge is left in your LiPo battery? Sure there is, but it’s an industry secret and you have to know the secret handshake to gain access to such information. Oh what the heck, you seem like a good guy, here is the scoop.

The resting/static voltage of a LiPo is a great indicator to the state of its charge. For example, a LiPo battery that shows 4.2 volts per cell (8.4 volts for a 2S pack) is 100% fully charged. A LiPo at 4 volts per cell is just over 75%, 50% is right at 3.84 volts, and 25% is 3.75 volts per cell. You can either buy a simple multi-meter to check this, or you can pick up a dedicated LiPo battery checker from a wide variety of sources.

Have fun, go fast, turn it into rubble.


“I KNOW how much you like whats better letters, so here is mine. Whats better, a small scale like 1/18th, or a big scale like 1/5th? I cant decide on going small or going big.

Drew”

Cubby- Oh yes Drew B, each and every week I get inundated with “What’s Better??” questions. Most are the typical “What’s better, a Slash or a Blitz?”, and a few are like yours, something a bit more interesting.

To get to your question… should you get a small scale vehicle or get something huge. Hey, I gotta be honest here, I can not answer your question. The answer totally depends on what you are looking for (which you left me zero information on). So… I can’t just say “Cut the check for the 5th scale HPI 5B ASAP!”. However, I can certainly break down the two as I see them.

Small scale (1/36, 1/18th, etc)- Their upsides include low price and the ability to be driven in very small areas. Their major downsides are they are hard to work on (especially if you are old like me and your eyes are going bad) and they don’t drive well on rough surfaces.

Big scale (1/8, 1/5, 1/4)- On the upside, big vehicles tend to be easy to drive and can usually take a good beating without breakage. On the downside, big cars cost big cash (both initially and for parts), they can take up a lot of space in your garage, and they can leave a pretty good dent in your shin should you hit yourself.

IMO it really comes down to how much money you want to spend and how large of an area you have to drive in.

Good luck and shoot us some pics of whatever you end up buying (coming off a roof of course).


Submit your letters to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If, and I highly doubt it will, your letter hits the big time, you’ll get a free BSRC sticker pack. If I pick yours as the “Letter of the Month” you will even win one of our ridiculously uber BSRC t-shirts.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“Summit vs Yeti

Hi there,
I have liked the Summit for a long time because it was good all around, but now that the Yeti was made, I’m liking the Yeti more than the Summit. The two R/C’s have about a $150- $200 price difference (I think. I haven’t checked the Summit price in a while) but it looks like the Yeti might be better. It is definitely faster. But can it do the same things the summit can, and do it just as good or better?

Long story short I just want to know if the Yeti is just as good or better than the summit. Thanks!

CAM G.”

Cubby- Yo hey Cam, you’ve made the big time, be sure and shoot us an email containing your snail mail so we can get ya the hook-up on one of our sweet sticker packs. For all the rest of the throngs reading this, you can have a sticker pack too, hit the “BSRC Shop” button at the top of the page. Our stickers instantly give you street cred and will show all your buddies that you are indeed a hardcore basher.

Oh ya, you wrote in with a question. One of my favorites, a “which is better”, but yours has a twist, you are comparing two very different sized vehicles.

So which is better, the Axial Yeti or the Traxxas Summit?

I have not run both of them back-to-back over the same terrain, so that makes the comparison a bit trickier. However, I have put in a lot of time with both independently. Based on my time with them…

These are two different types of beasts. The Axial is all around quicker, has more top speed, and is much more controllable while at speed. The Yeti can take a hit without breakage, and can be used to blast around a cul-de-sac or for an all day trail drive with your buddies.

The Summit is physically much larger, allowing it to get over large dirt clods or rocks. It has good power on tap as well, but it likes to wheelie and traction roll too much.

To boil it down, IMO the Axial Yeti is the better overall bash machine. While smaller, its speed and handling are simply better suited to general bashing.


“Slickrock lipo battery

Hey Buddy. Plse help a newbie. Just parked a Slickrock next to my Losi MRC Pro. I believe the std nmh battery is a big mistake. Our local South African RC shops are not exactly balls of fire hence I can’t find a suitable lipo battery for my new S/rock. Want to keep it in the box for now. Can you please tell me what lipo batteries I can look for. Many thanks.

Regards,
Ronnie B.”

Cubby- Hey now Ronnie B, thanks for writing in and hope you plaster your Slickrock with the BSRC stickers that you will receive in the mail.

So you are from South Africa? As you probably know many of our staffers are all about Zef style. Sorry to hear your local hobby shops are not “balls of fire”, but then the Slickrock uses a small sized pack that isn’t available at a lot of hobby shops here in the states either.

We never received a Slickrock for review, so I’ve had no first hand experience with it. Stock it uses an odd 3+3 2/3A NiMH, which is great for fitting in its cube like battery tray, but not so good when it comes time for finding a replacment. The only pack I can think of that might be a good fit would be a MaxAmps 2S 860mAh. That pack should fit fine without modification and have more than enough current to get your rig around. Otherwise… I would recommend you go to your favorite on-line LiPo retailer and look for a pack with a form factor of roughly 30 x 30 x 50mm.

There is one more option, ditch the stock battery box and slap in a more readily available 2S 1200mAh’ish pack. Most LiPos in that size will fit inside the cage of the Slickrock, but not inside the stock battery box.

Have fun, go fast, and send us pics of the carnage.


Hey, that’s all I got for this week. Shoot me your selfies, screenshots, questions, rants, and perpetual motion machine plans to Cubby at BigSquidRC. I doubt it will, but if your letter hits the big time you’ll get a free BSRC sticker pack, and if I proclaim it as “Letter of the Month” you’ll receive a way-super-dope BSRC t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“2.4GHZ radio receivers question

Cubby,

I own the Tactic TTX240 2 channel radio and about 12 3 channel Tactic receivers. I LOVE the fact that it doesn’t have an antenna wire. Now that I have started to race a bit more using the 2 channel(3 channel receiver) system is limiting my ability to use certain items on track. With my Slash 4×4 powered by the Mamba Max Pro SCT Edition and 2400kv motor I have the issue that I cannot run a transponder due to the motor fan wire. So I have been running without a fan for the last few races.

Do you know if anyone else makes a 3-4 channel pistol grip system without a receiver antenna? I really want to run both the transponder plus the fan on the motor.
Sincerely,
Kevin S.”

Cubby- Hey, look who just won “Letter of the Month”. Congrats Kevin and shoot us your snail mail and shirt size so we can get you a certified BSRC t-shirt.

So Kev, you are getting into the local racing scene. I feel for ya buddy, hopefully your locals aren’t a bunch of irritable jacka%$es.

Anywhos, on to your question. You dig your Tactic radio gear, but the receivers are one port shy of what you need. I have a really, really affordable solution for ya. Instead of going out and buying new radio gear, pick up a Tactic Y-Harness. It is only $8 and will allow you to hook up a servo, speedo, transponder, and motor fan to your receiver. Click Here to get one on the way.

Have fun, go fast, blow stuff up.


“but i like how redcat adknowledged the flexible arms and the cvds bending but for example traxxas and the emaxx, they know it has bad bulks, but they choose not to change the design. Their other cars may not be durable, and the reviews were not made by redcat themselves, not that i contredict you, i love bsrc, i just think redcat is changing for the better:)

Ari R.”

Cubby- I posted up a letter from Ari a couple of weeks ago pertaining to Redcat, so he had a reply, and for some strange reason I figured I would post it for the world to see.
Oh and hey Ari, thanks for being a loyal reader, and we love you too.
XOXOXO
Cubby


“Turning My Fazer VE into Faster RC

Hey Guys,
I own a Kyosho Fazer Ve (Audi R8), the car has good performance but i want to upgrade it as it’s not Lipo 3S compatible, i want to make it fast, so i need your advise about selecting a suitable ESC, like the “Orion Vortex R10 Sports”. Or please advise your own suggestion.

Thanks Indeed
Inferno”

Cubby- Yo hey Inferno, thanks for taking the time out of your busy day to shoot me an email.

But… lets skip the dumb stuff here. I have driven some Orion systems lately. Not many, and not for that long of time, but enough to get a feel for them. Definitely not bad and probably pretty dialed for busting lap times on a controlled track. However… if you want power, real power, blow your tire off the rim power, suck the paint scheme off your buddies truck power, there is only one name to consider, Castle Creations. And why is that??? Because they are designed to put out massive amounts of brute force and live to talk about it the next day.

For your particular application, I would most highly recommend the Mamba Max Pro. You can run some crazy high kV motors on it, and should the need ever arise (which if you are a hard enough core basher it WILL), you can run up to 6S LiPo on it. Buy one, chuck it in, insert huge grin.

If you are on a budget, go for the Sidewinder 3 (less than $70). The SV3 is waterproof and can easily do the 3S you are looking for.

Click Here to get a Mamba Max Pro on the way, or Click Here for the SV3. Be sure and shoot us a pic of you blowing the tires off your Kyosho after you get your new speedo mounted up.


Like Bugs Bunny would say, “That’s All Folks!”. Should you have the gall, shoot me a letter, Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your letter makes the big time you’ll get a free sticker pack, if I proclaim yours as “Letter of the Month” we’ll hook you up with one of our ultra sweet t-shirts. Peace and love, peace and love…

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“Hello Bigsquid!!
what would be a good beginner brushless sct?
shadab k (via G+)”

Cubby- Yo to the yo Shadab, thanks for the question over on our BSRC G+ page. Hit the “contact us” link at the top of the page to inquire about getting your free sticker pack.

Hummmmm….. so what would I consider to be the “best” brushless short course truck for a beginner? Certainly there are a lot of good trucks in that product category (I’ll be talking 2wd here), but this is how I see them breaking down…

3. ECX Torment Brushless 2WD SCT- Comes in at $289 and is generally easy to drive. While we’ve never reviewed one, I’ve gotten more than one opportunity to flog them and have always walked away with a favorable impression.

2. Traxxas 2wd Slash VXL TQi- Price point isn’t cheap at $379 but is proven to be a great bash machine with unmatched parts support.

1. Team Durango DESC210 RTR- Street priced around $350 (if you can find them). The best handling of the 2wd BL RTR bunch, the DESC210 is ultra tough when fitted with flexible RTR plastic and comes with an easy to control 13.5 sensored system. Obviously they aren’t easy to come by now days, and they really need captured rod ends installed ASAP, otherwise it is the cream of the crop IMO.

One last note here, that top 3 list would be entirely different if you went around the office. Wrench Bill has a different top 3 than mine, as does Adam The Intern, etc. Do as much research as possible and come up with the best truck for you.


“The terremoto!
Yes you have not reccomended the terremoto, but since the manager of redcat (darin) posted the truck and made updates (stronger arms to stop bending cvd’s and the customer service rocks! its a really good truck! its a hell of a truck, bigger than emaxx, savy flux, mt4 etc
Ari R.”

Cubby- Hey ya Ari, shoot us your snail mail for the hook-up on a BSRC sticker kit.

No, we have not recommended the Redcat Terremoto, nor have we even seen one in person (and I highly doubt we ever will). Which is shame, it looks like a vehicle that should be right down the alley of the bulk of our readers.

What I am more concerned about is this- you think since a person from the company making the truck did some upgrades to it, that now you think its a good truck. I think (read- know) I can take any piece of garbage on the market and do a few upgrades and make it a whole lot better.

And… do you think its a good idea to listen to someone from the actual manufacturer? Would it be a good idea for a former Traxxas employee to do Traxxas reviews in one of the dinosaur mags? What if a former Associated employee was doing AE reviews, would you trust them (for better or for the worse)? Just say’n, choose who you listen to wisely…


Hey, ASK Cubby is done for the week. Should you want to see your name/letter in the bright lights of the BSRC front page, shoot me an email, Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your letter makes the big time you’ll win a free sticker pack, or if I name it “Letter of the Month” you’ll be entitled to a free BSRC t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“review
Hi I would love to see a review of the new 1/5 VRX phantom-B brushless buggy
Mmmmm”

Cubby- Hey ya “Mmmmm”, shoot us your snail mail for the hook-up on a BigSquidRC sticker pack.

So… you would like to see a review of the VRX Phantom 1/5 buggy? Why? Have you seen that thing? It looks like something Iron Mike picked out of his nose, and having seen first hand some of the things that come out of there, that is some pretty gruesome stuff.

But seriously… some of the smaller 1/10 VRX products don’t look bad, but the buggy you mention would make Medusa wince in agony. Oh and… I have no clue if the buggy is any good or not, however I would never review one based on looks alone.


“Hi Cubby,
Back in Apr 21, 2014, you mentioned a third rc company coming out with a 1/8 scale gas monster truck. Haven’t heard any news. Btw, how come there’s no rc companies coming out with a gas powered truck with reverse transmission? Thank you! :)
Harry Y.”

Cubby- Heyyyyyy now Harry, thanks for the email and congrats, you’ve just won a free sticker pack.

Yes, I have first hand knowledge of a third gas entry, but…

Before the HPI Octane the Losi XXL-2 hit the market, several companies were scrambling to get into the gas game. However… after the cold reception they both received, companies don’t seem to be in such a rush. Gas will no doubt be big at some point in the future, and while I feel that both the Octane and the XXL-2 were admirable first attempts at the category, there is still a lot of room for improvement. From my first hand knowledge with “Company X” that is working on a gas 1/8th scaler, they are taking their time to make sure their product is as refined as possible before hitting the market, which might be months, or even years from now.

Btw… where are the aftermarket parts for the gas trucks put out thus far? I know the aftermarket types out there, they could fix any/all that ills those trucks, but so far they have sat on their hands. “Sighhhhh”

Anywhos…

And why no reverse on the gas trucks so far? Cost, plain and simple. Both of the current models came to the plate at relatively high price points, to add reverse would simply push them that much further out of the realm of most people’s budgets.


That’s it ya lunatics, shoot me an email and maybe, just maybe, you too can bask in the glory of making it into ASK Cubby. Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com is the address, should you make the big time you will get a free sticker pack or possibly even a t-shirt!

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“QUESTION FOR CUBBY
Dear Cubby;
I’m a speed and bash rc truck person – slash and savage, etc. – but I really like the looks of some of the crawlers. And was wondering if anyone has had any luck modifying a crawler for speed and bashing. I realize they have a high center of gravity but I thought the wide stance and large tires might welcome a brushless system and performance oriented shocks. Your thoughts?
Blessings
Damon H.
San Rafael, CA
Ps. This is in fact the first time in my life I have ever had the privilege of consulting someone named “Cubby.””

Cubby- Hey ya Damon from California, thanks for the letter, shoot us your snail mail so we can totally hook you up with a BSRC sticker pack.

So… you want to mod-out a crawler and make it go really, really fast. Hey, I dig that idea. Throwing on some foams, a huge pinion, and a 6S 7700kV power system in an Axial SCX10 just sounds gnarly to me. If you do it, be sure and send us pics/vid because even I can’t wait to see one of those doing 60 mph speed passes.

However… I would recommend you simply pick up one of the new Axial Yetis. From getting in a bunch of time driving the Yeti, I have found it is a perfect vehicle for doing some light crawling, while also having the ability to do 40 mph speed runs and hit’n big jumps. It has the uber scale looks that you would expect from an Axial product, and performs like nothing else on the market. Oh and… from speaking to the Axial crew a couple days ago, they expect for them to start hitting consumer hands in about two weeks, get your order in now if you want one.


“Looking for a Rally Car
With so many rally cars out there, Which is the best onroad basher and light gravel machine? Looking to keep it scale or have the option for a scaled body. Subaru is a plus.
-Shane H.”

Cubby- Yo hey Shane, congrats on making the big time, don’t forget we can’t hook ya up with stickers unless you send us your snail mail.

To your question… it has been some time since we did our Rally Car Shootout, but it is still quite relevant today. For purely on-road use, I am personally a big fan of the HPI WR8 Flux. Compared to the others in its class, it has loads of power and handles very well on pavement. However, you may not be a big fan of its Ken Block/Ford livery.

For a Subaru fan such as yourself, the Kyosho DRX VE Impreza would also be a good choice. The Kyosho isn’t as good on pavement as the HPI, nor does it have as much raw power, but it still drives well on-road, and still has a solid amount of brushless power. Also of note on the Kyosho, its body is absolutely top-notch, and it handles off-road better than pretty much any other dedicated rally car on the market.

Make the decision, cut the check, insert Hugeeee smile on face.


That’s it for this week ya mongrels, shoot your letters/comments/rants/questions to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If (and I highly doubt it will) your letter hits the big time you’ll win a BSRC sticker pack or maybe even one of our new t-shirts!

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“Family room runner

I’m fairly green when it comes to rc cars and the like and was hoping for a bit of advise on a new rc car. I am wanting something that I can run around inside my family room, plus a bit of outside patio if the desire comes to me. I already have a Losi micro T and was looking for something a bit larger and easier to tinker with. I like the looks of the Losi mini 8ight. It may be too big and fast, but comes well equipped and I may be able to gear down. The other rig I am digging on is the Associated SC18. I like the looks and the size, but am worried about the belt drive issue. I’d like to stay away from stuff that has a two-in-one ESC/receiver like the micro T. Brushless power would be nice for longer run time and power. Local parts support isn’t an issue, my local shop is a bit lackluster and I tend to have to order things online. I like to tinker as much as drive, sometimes more. Any advice would be appreciated.

Josh K.
NorCal”

Cubby- Yo congrats Josh K, you’ve just pulled off a coveted “Letter of the Month”. Shoot us your snail mail (and your shirt size) so we can hook you up with one of our spank’n new t-shirts.

As far as your question goes, I just happen to be an expert on what to run in a living room (as well as pretty much every other topic on this planet). Seriously, every winter I invite my homeskillets over and we hold our own RC Supercross before the AMA night program kicks off live on tv. What have I learned????

18th scalers are typically too big and too fast. This results in multiple tire marks up on the wall that the wife does NOT appreciate. I’ve found the perfect sized vehicle for my RC Supercross room (18 x 20′) to be the Losi Micro SCT. The SCT version is significantly larger than the Micro-T truck, plus it’s 4wd which makes for easier adjustments over the big triples we make out of rugs with boxes underneath. Standard oil shocks on the SCT makes passes through the whoop section a blast, instead of a pogo experiment like what you would have with a Micro-T. Also, we’ve run them (the Micro SCTs) on BL, but that makes them a bit too fast (read- more tire marks on the walls and furniture) so we run ours on brushed motors with LiPo batteries. For my room that is the perfect set-up.

If you really and truly want to go up a size from the Micro SCT, I’d recommend the Dromida line-up of vehicles. They are the same size as the AE 18th scalers and are tough and affordable, two things you want for a Man-Cave machine. The Losi Mini 8IGHT buggy you mention is a kick ass machine as well, but I have driven one in my Supercross room and you don’t want to (unless you are good at repairing drywall and/or ceilings).


“Review Mini Losi 8ight-T

Good night,

How are you? Please, I need a information.I would like buy a Losi 1/14, but i have a doubt, what`s the better: mini 8ight or mini 8ight T? Are there difference in top speed between this rc cars? Which is your favourite? What is the stronger? Can I change the spur gear of the both cars for reach top speed? thanks!!!

Thanks,
Haroldo O.”

Cubby- Ya know Haroldo, out of the thousands of emails I’ve received over the years, yours is the first one to actually ask me how I am doing. Thanks, and welcome to the big time, shoot us your snail mail so we can get ya a big ole’ BSRC sticker pack.

So how am I doing? Not worth a dern really. The rc industry is in a lull, my 550 has a cracked bell housing (read- $$$$$), and Iron Mike just got me back on our ongoing CA glue war (crafty fellow- he put several drops on the outside of the bottle I was using to glue up some tires). But seriously, who am I kidding? I have the best job in the world- destroying and complaining about toy cars. So ya, I am actually doing pretty damn awesome.

Oh ya, you had an rc question…

So… between the Losi Mini 8IGHT buggy and the 8IGHT-T truggy, which one is faster, which one is stronger, and which one do I prefer?

Which one is faster? Both are crazy quick, the top speed is up to you. Want more top end? Simply add a couple teeth to the pinion. Want stupid power? Pop in a 3S LiPo. IMO, both are easily overpowered.

Which one is tougher? Once again, they are pretty close. Both have proven quite durable for us.

Which one do I prefer? Both. The buggy is better for smaller or smoother areas, it is more agile than the Mini 8IGHT-T. The truggy is better for larger and/or rougher areas. However… if I had to pick just one I’d go with the 8IGHT-T because I consider it slightly more versatile. Because of its size, the truggy simply handles better in a bunch of rough areas that I normally drive at (like 8th scale buggy tracks or in bumpy open fields). The fact that a plethora of normal 10th scale buggy tires fit on the truggy is just icing on the cake.


So that’s it for this week, shoot me your letters, spam, and perfect condition Ferrari bell housings to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your letter/question makes the big time you’ll win some stickers, if I proclaim yours as “Letter of the Month” you’ll get a free t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“Vaterra Halix Build

What’s the deal with the Vaterra Halix build? You left me hanging. I was following that build step by step (although I installed the Vaterra CVDs instead of the MIPs.) I figured you guys had gotten busy with the trade show and had put the build on hold, but that’s well in the past. Is the Halix build going to be finished? In addition to the shocks, tires, and CVDs, I installed Robinson Racing’s new Halix Slipper unit. There was a DRAMATIC difference! I’ve ordered another one to install on my Vaterra Raptor. The last piece to complete my Halix is a crazy ESC/Motor. I’d really like your guys’ input on that and any gearing changes if need be.

Thanks.

Dave F.”

Cubby- Yo hey Dave, shoot us your snail mail so we can get ya a BSRC sticker pack for that Halix of yours.

What’s the dealio with our Vaterra Halix build? Yes, more is still in the works. And yes, we’ve just been crazy slammed around the office. I’ll crack some whips around here and see if I can get someone to bust out some more articles on the Halix.

We have been driving it hard (read- abusing it) and have had very few issues with it after some simple mods. We ran it last weekend at a big bash in the freestyle contest and once again it came home in one piece. We have slicked off a few of the stock 48 pitch spur gears though, the Robinson slipper you installed converts over to 32 pitch to take more of a beating.


“big fan of your site. quick question for you sir.
Here is a pic of someones HPI XL octane.

HPI Savage Octane Any chance you can tell me the company that makes those exact rims and also the tires for this car??? Love the way it looks and wish to purchase.

Thanks for your time :)

Johnathan G.”

Cubby- Hey now Johnny G, thanks for the email.

That pic you attached was from one of the first consumers on the planet to get the HPI Savage Octane, David F. And yes, both you and David have good taste in wheels/tires. The ones in the picture are from the good guys over at Pro-Line. The tires are Big Joe IIs mounted up on F-11 3.8″ wheels (find more info Right Here). Expect a set of four pre-mounts to set ya back around 90 clams. We’ve run that wheel/tire combo a lot on various monster trucks and it’s a primo set-up for when you run on multiple surfaces like grass, then asphalt, then dirt.

You’re welcome and all my answer costs you is an Excalibur collection Roger Dubuis. What a small price to pay for such an excellent answer. Feel free to mail the watch to my home address at your convenience. :)


You have made it to the end of yet another ASK Cubby. Why not submit your own question/rant/meltdown/resume? The email addy you want is Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. I will be picking a “letter of the month” winner next week, so get to peck’n at that keyboard of yours.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“U guys should make a video with a ton of rc cars and have a race
From Michael J on his iPod”

Cubby- Yo Mikey J on your iPod, thanks for shoot’n me an email.

So… you want us to make a video with exactly one ton of rc cars racing. Ok, I’ll entertain the idea, so lets do some math.

Let’s assume that the average weight of each vehicle is 5 lbs. I pick that number not only be it is somewhat round, but also because it would probably be in the ballpark. A “standard” short ton is 2000 pounds, so 2000 divided by 5 is 400. I have to say Mikey I likey your style, I would also like to see a video with 400 cars all driving/racing at the exact same time. But… sadly, no matter how cool it would be, there would be a few issues to overcome…

Drivers- we would need 400 of them, which might be a little hard to get in one place at one time.

Radios- To get 400 different channels might be a bit hard. For example, only 79 different Spektrum radios can operate at one time, so even if you throw in Futaba FASST, old school 27 and 75, and several other brands, I’m still not sure we could come up with 400 separate working systems.

Space- Unless we were shooting for just a full on demo derby, it is gonna get pretty sketchy running 400 cars at once.

My solution? One driver with one transmitter and 400 cars bound to it. Put them all in a row, punch the throttle, and let the fun begin. But that is just how I’m wired…


“RC Radios

Saw Graupner X-8N and X-8E online on your website you mentioned didn’t know when or if it would be available in U.S or CANADA that was in 2013 any further info on them now

Bullet Bill”

Cubby- Hey now Bullet Bill, thanks for the email and be sure to shoot us your snail mail so we can totally get you dialed with a BigSquidRC sticker set.

Ya, we got our first chance to check out the new Graupner stuff a couple weeks ago at the HobbyTown USA Convention in Lincoln Nebraska. While I was not personally a big fan of their radio systems, their “computer tower” style chargers looked boss.

Anyways… I have some good news for ya BB, the good folks over at Tower Hobbies have picked up the Graupner line. They aren’t in stock yet, but should be soon.


That’s it ya lunatics, why don’t ya get crazy and shoot me an email, Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your letter/question/rant makes the big time you’ll win something cool enough to brag about to your friends. That is all.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“Child’s Crawler
I am looking to get my 2 kids a crawler each I will also be buying 1 for myself. I was thinking a small one for them and a 1/10th for myself. Since I will be buying 3 price is a bit of a concern. Right now I have a Losi xxx-t but Losi`s have gotten hard to find locally so that is something to consider also.
Any advice will be great
Thanks,
Josh A.”

Cubby- Yo to the yo Josh, thanks for the email.

So you wanna get into the crawling scene with your kids, not spend much cash, and might want to stay away from Losi due to the parts availability where you live.

First off props for thinking to buy your kids some trucks to get them involved with the hobby. Good for you, the future of our fine hobby depends on them.

You didn’t say if you’ll be doing actual crawling or just doing general bashing with the new crawlers, so I’ll just wing my answer like I always do.

I wouldn’t buy them a smaller sized crawler than the one you get and here’s why- size matters more than anything else out in the rocks. A section where a 2.2 truck might blow through without issue, a smaller truck can get stuck on the first rock. It would suck to be out crawling/trailing and either have to only do easy sections so your kids small trucks could make it, or have every section where your 2.2 made it no problem but they were constantly getting hung up. I have been on several expeditions involving vastly different sized trail machines, and someone is always getting screwed over by the type of terrain. Running the same size at least makes it the equally hard (or easy) for all involved.

So like I said earlier, size matters in the rocks, so that’s why I would recommend a truck using 2.2 tires for you and your crew. And… because you are wanting to stay away from Losi, I would recommend Axial. Axial has a couple big advantages right now. First off, because of their vast popularity, many local hobby shops are keeping parts for them on the shelves (some shops even more than Traxxas, Gasp!). Two- they are relatively affordable. They aren’t the cheapest out on the market, but they are not near the upper end of price range for the genre either.

If you don’t want to spend the cash for three 2.2 sized Axials, here is an idea. Because runtime is so insanely long on a crawler, you might just want to pick up one or two to start with. This way you can find out for sure if you and your kids are into the crawling scene, and with the insane runtimes one pack will probably be long enough for you and your kids to get an rc fix before having to switch out a pack.

Btw, as far as 2.2 Axial’s go, I’m a fan of the Deadbolt. It has decent speed for a crawler, plus it comes with 2.2 tires that have a good tread for general use. And oh ya, it can wheelie, which kids love to do.

Go fast, spin tires, and shoot us pics of what you end up buying.

Hit the “Read More” button to read one of the best rants I’ve received in a while…

READ MORE

ASK Cubby

“Going Fast

Hey Cubby I hope this ends up on Big Squid. I have saved up about 40 bucks to spend on go fast parts for my Rustler. Tell me, is 40 enough to even make a difference?

Charlie T.”

Cubby- Yo what’s up Charlie. Yes, your question has made the big-time, shoot us your snail mail for a free sticker pack.

Is $40 enough to make your Rustler go faster? While some people might snicker at you, I will not. No, 40 clams, won’t make a huge difference, but it is more than enough to gain some speed.

Btw, I am going to assume you have the electric version here, if you happen to have the nitro please just beat it with a hammer until dead.

Pinion gears are a really cheap way of gaining speed on your electric Rustler. A Robinson Racing pinion for your truck only costs about $4 and can definitely gain you some rip. I would recommend picking up a couple of new pinions, one with about 2 more teeth than you currently have, and another with 4 more. The larger sized pinions will give you more top speed, but keep an eye on your motor temp to make sure you don’t get it too hot. A motor temp under 160 F is a good place to be, if you get it too hot you will ruin the magnet inside. Don’t have the cash for a temp gun? Find a cheap one. The old school spit test only lets you know after your magnet has been baked.

Oh and… while a larger pinion will gain you some top speed, you will end up losing runtime. If you were to pop on a smaller pinion, you would gain runtime but lose top end speed.

One more thing, if your truck has a brushed motor, giving it a good water dipping will also give it more power/speed.


That’s it for this week, you know the drill shoot me your questions to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. Make the big-time get free stuff.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“Murfdogg Psycho

Guys, I would love to see a review and maybe even a head to head vs. The Proline Pro-2 with the new Murfdogg Psycho. I am just getting into the growing field of short course truck dirt oval racing, I’m running a late model style body, and am thinking about one of these two trucks for my next build. The big question is; is the Murf worth $200 more? I’m currently running a LCG Slash with a ChuckWorks mid motor conversion on the way soon. Really love the look of the Pro-2 and the reviews it has gotten but the new Psycho seems to be a strong challenger with the mid motor layout.

Thoughts?

Bryan C.”

Cubby- Yo hey Bryan, thanks for taking the time out of your day to shoot us an email. Oh ya, I have proclaimed yours as “Letter of the Month”, be sure to shoot us an email with your snail mail so we can hook you up with a BSRC t-shirt.

While we did post the PR for the Murfdogg, we have never really talked to them so I have no idea if they would be up for going head to head again the Pro-Line PRO-2. However, what I do know is the PL is a solid truck, whether it is being used for bashing, off-road, or oval. And… although the Murfdogg uses several AE parts, I would be concerned about the availability of parts for it. Not many hobby shops are gonna stock the specialty parts on that truck. If it was up to me I’d cut the check for the PL and use the extra 200 clams on uber batteries or to stock up on tires, but then that is just my opinion.


“Break too much

I read over on Facebook about how a certain website likes to throw review stuff off of roofs to bash and thrash it. Just wondering, do you think that is irresponsible?

Dayton R.”

Cubby- Heyyyy now Dayton, thanks for the email, get us your snail mail so we can get ya a sticker set in the mail.

Ya, I had multiple people shoot that to me. It was an industry person expressing their opinion that we (I can’t imagine what other website they might have been talking about, LOL) might be a bit rough on review product.

Pretty much every product we get goes off a roof at some time or another, and I’m not just talking cars here, I’m talking transmitters, batteries, etc. As I’ve always said, “We do it so you don’t have to.”. Some product is very tough and not easily broken, and because we aren’t going to stop a review before a product is broken, we have to resort to hucking them off a roof.

Is that irresponsible? Well, what we do for a living is to test rc equipment. Part of that testing is to determine if it will break the first time you drive it, or if it is the toughest product in its category. We could just beat the stuff with a hammer to determine how tough it is, but that just doesn’t have the flair or suspense of seeing whether it lives when coming off a roof.


That’s it for another ASK Cubby. Submit your questions, rants, and other verbal narcolepsy to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your letter makes the big time you’ll get some free stuff in the mail.

YOUR Cub Reporter

ASK Cubby

“Pro-Line Pro-2 VS Traxxas Slash Ultimate

Alright I have a Traxxas Slash Ultimate 4×4 and I would like to get a Pro-Line Pro-2 soon. Now, I know that one of them is a 4×4 and one us a 4×2 but I would like to know which one is better for bashing, and what better people to ask than the folks at Big Squid? I have heard nothing but great things about the Pro-2. Your review of the Pro-2 was a big help but I’m wondering if it is better than my slash. Thanks!

CAMERON G.”

Cubby- YO! I thought about just leaving your answer at that (we are big fans of the app), but after a few evil eyes from Brian, I guess I must give you more of a reply.

Pretty much any 4wd has a huge advantage over a 2wd in rc, and that is the case here. Yes, the Pro-Line is a great truck, one that we drive daily, and it is our favorite 2wd SCT, but the 4wd on the TRX is a huge advantage.

4wd helps a ton in pretty much every scenario. It is a huge advantage when plowing through grass. SCTs are prone to being hard to control over jumps and 4wd goes a long ways to making them easier to fly. Etc, etc, etc. However…. there are a couple disadvantages to 4wd. They tend to not turn as tightly, so the Pro-2 can cut under the Slash 4×4 in super tight 180s. And… 4wd are much harder on electrical systems.

Should you cut the check for the Pro-2? Heck ya you should, it’s as uber of a 2wd SCT as any on the market, but don’t expect it to do everything that a 4wd can.


“ECX 4WD Front Wire

On the ECX 4WD vehicles that Front Mystery Wire is a Steering Stop. They prevent the steering block from going too far. Since there isn’t a C Hub with a stop these are needed. It took me a while to figure this out & it didn’t come to me until I was checking the servo travel.

Chris S.”

Cubby- Ya, I got “the call” from one of my homies over at Horizon about 5 minutes after our ECX Torment review went live. Using a 35 minute phone call dissertation, he completely filled me on the whys and hows of “the mystery wire”. While it isn’t the way I would have gone about it, the wire is simple, effect, and adjustable (by bending/changing).


Yo, you’ve made it all the way through another ASK Cubby, hit me with an email at Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If you make the big time (like Chris and Cameron did this week) you’ll get a free sticker pack, or maybe even one of our uber new t-shirts.

YOUR Cub Reporter