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Ask Cubby’ Category

Cubby

Cubbby

The rear of my E-Revo sags too much when I take off from a dead stop, it sags so much my rear skidplate is getting eaten alive, any tips?

Gail

Cubby- Yes indeed those Revo’s sure like to sag when you pound the gas, both the nitro and electric versions. On one hand, that’s part of what makes a Revo so much fun to drive, all that luscious suspension travel. On the other hand, that’s what makes them sluggish around a track and makes them traction roll on high bite surfaces. So what can be done to firm up your Revo?

Step #1- Purchase stiffer Traxxas springs.

Step #2- Install Associated 70 weight shock oil.

Step #3- Crank up the pre-load.

These mods won’t totally eliminate the sag but they will help and are inexpensive.


There’s another question, but it’s a little long, so keep reading… READ MORE

Cubby

Cubby what is the best body for my HPI Blitz?
Tommy C.

Cubby- The best body for your Blitz is whatever style you like best, so go with your own gut on this one. But… if you really can’t make up your mind- I personally like the Pro-Line Flo-Tek, especially in 2wd short course where the parachute effect is the hardest to correct with the throttle and brake. The Pro-Line Flo-Tek is the trickest looking IMO, and handles the best on windy days. It does take a bit longer to cut out all the extra body vents, but IMO that is time well spent.


I saw you helped test the new Arrma raider buggy cubby. I am going to buy a new buggy is the raider good or am i better off with a boost?
John

Cubby- Hummm…. what’s better, the ECX Boost or ARRMA Raider? Now that would make a great shootout. Thanks for the idea John. ;)

But really, not to dodge the question, if I had to pick one of the two buggies I would personally pick the Raider, and here’s why.

1. I like the looks of the Raider better, I like how original it is.
2. It has a beefier powertrain to handle brushless power.
3. It jumps better.

On the other hand… the Boost is no joke and is a daily driver around here (yes, I drive one nearly every day, no joke), it drives well and is tough as a tank.

So… if you were to go around the office and ask 6 of us which we’d pick you’d probably get half for the Boost, and half for the Raider. Every person has different wants and needs, which one is best is really up to you.


Dear Cubby,
You always say “support your local hobby shops” but I do not have one, the nearest hobby shop to me is over 2 hours away, so now what do I do?
Rayford D

Cubby- What’s up Rayford? I saw in your email that you are from Oregon, no doubt you don’t have too many local hobby shops.

Anyways… your answer is easy, you are gonna have to mail order. Yes, I know it’s a sin and all, but a 4 hour round trip is gonna cost ya some serious bucks in gas. So…. if you have to mail order I only recommend one place, Tower Hobbies. You can hit’em on the web HERE, or call’em toll free at 800-637-6050. They are good peeps over there and will hook ya up. They set the standard for mail order, good prices, outstanding inventory, and quick shipping, they are who I’d use if I lived 150 miles from an LHS.


Yup, that’s it for this week ya bunch of freaks. Email me all your crazy antics to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

Cubby

What do you guys do with the models you review? do you sell them, keep them, givve them away? If you give them away then sign me up! I would always be interested in a new rc! Really love the site and keep on bashin’ !

Gray M.

Cubby- Hey thanks for the props Gray.

We don’t “sell” used test vehicles as much as we “trade” them. For example, you trade me a new bottle of Dom 98′, I trade you a beat down stadium truck. You trade me a Rotolog, I trade you a taco’ed out nitro monster truck. Sounds fair to me. :)

But seriously…. some former test machines we keep to review new product with (like batteries, motors, etc), all the others we Give Away To Our Readers. We aren’t like some members of the press that sell old test gear (sic), we choose to take the high road and give the stuff away. Sometimes we just hand test gear to people at the track, sometimes we have contests. Which reminds me, we have a LOT of contests coming down the pike, keep your eye on our front page to find out how to win! I hear our next contest involves giving away a new charger, expect full info in a few days.


Hey, I was just noticing your ihobby posts and wanted to tell you that I would buy that uber-cool bigsquid bowling shirt that you are wearing in the pic. Not the actual shirt, that’s gross. I would never wear another man’s shirt unless it was an emergency, but a shirt of the same design.

Kind Regards,
Tom N.

Cubby- Hola Tom, good hearing from you as always. You are probably talking about our 2010 shirts that we wore again on Sat-Sun this year at iHobby. We’ve gotten a lot of positive comments about them over the last year, and thanks for your props. Unfortunately those aren’t for sale, but… we do have brand new uber t-shirts that have been selling faster than Red Bull at an ADD convention, just click on the “BSRC Shop” link above.


Can u tell me what manufacturers have SC motors and motor combos.

Matt N.

Cubby- All of them. You’re welcome.

But seriously…. all the major manufactures have “short course” specific systems available. What makes these systems more suitable for short course than just a normal 10th scale buggy or stadium truck system? The biggest difference is typically the motor. Short course trucks are heavier, have more rotating mass, and have big bodies that push around a lot more air, so larger motors are quite beneficial.

As far as what’s good… we have recently reviewed three 2wd SC specific systems, two from Novak and one from Viper. All were 8.5 systems, all were sensored, all put out smooth controllable power and ran quite well, so I can first hand recommend those to you. If you are looking for “crazy” power I’d recommend looking into the Castle 1410 or 1415 systems, or one of the Kershaw systems. The Castle systems are “relatively” tame on 2S, but yield crazy power on higher cell counts. We’ve also tested the Kershaws and they are another system that will destroy drive-line parts on higher cell counts (if you are willing to give up drive-abilty for shear power).


I was left baffled after reading your electrix torment review. You see i once owned an electrix ruckus and it was a piece of s*&t. I could twist the chassis with my hands flexing it several inches and on top of that i could not mount a small enough pinion to keep the motor from overheating. The electrix trucks are crap and i will never own another one. You have lost all credibility in my eyes for recommending them.

Jim A.

Cubby- Hey what’s up Jim? Thanks for the email…

Ok, a typical “racer type” would grab the chassis on an Electrix/ECX and declare it totally unusable. A basher type would pick up the same chassis and exclaim it was perfect!

In bashing a chassis with a fair amount of “give” is less likely to break… READ MORE

Cubby

How’s it going? I’m in need to send my Schuamcher Fusion to shop to have it looked over. I would like to know if you could advise any to me?

Located in North FL
thanks
T.C.

Cubby- Hey what’s up TC, and thanks for the email.

So you want to send your Schumacher car into a shop to get it looked over. I guess you didn’t get the memo, but this is a hobby where you actually work on your own cars. Seriously, we are playing with toy cars, if you really mess one up just throw it away and buy another one.

So…. bust out your owners manual and start tearing that beast down. Clean everything and look for anything broken or worn out. If you find items that need replacement I hear A-Main Hobbies is the best place in the states to get Schu parts right now. After receiving new parts, re-assemble and take’er for a test drive. If it’s still messed up you didn’t pay close enough achtung to your owners manual.

But… let’s say you aren’t very mechanically inclined, the kind of guy that can’t even change a roll of toilet paper. Here are your options.

1. Contact your local hobby shops and see if they repair used rc cars. So do, some don’t, but for those that do expect to pay around $20 an hour for labor.

2. Check Craigslist. In most larger metro areas there are guys advertising on CL that they fix broken cars. You’ll wanna be careful with these guys as most of them are working out of their house and they could very easily just keep your car and tell you to screw off.

3. Ship it to Wrench from BSRC. He’s the best there is at spin’n wrenches on an rc car, although his hourly rate is probably higher than what most new cars cost.


Okay, I’ll get straight to the chase…. on the charger shootout price page, there was a mistake. You said in the table that you used the Duratraxx Onyx
220 which you stated sold for $60. The 220 model only charges NiCd and NiMh, not LiPo. You used the 230, which sells for about $80 and charges LiPo batteries.

Also, I think it might be nice if you did a LiFe Battery shootout, just for fun. That and/or a 1/16 scale battery shootout, for the Traxxas 1/16 E Revo VXL (or other 1/16 traxxas models). The mini E Revo may be small, but in no way is it not for bashers. :)

Also, I stumbled upon some LiFe batteries while browsing the internet a week or so ago, and I’ve heard they’re much better than LiPo’s: They have more charges, they wont spontaneously combust if used improperly. :D But I haven’t found anything about the rate of charge for the batteries. Can you help me? I realize you are extremely busy, and I am in no way offended if you don’t respond to my newbie questions. :)

Thanks,
Ron

Cubby- Hey Ron, you are totally correct, we did shootout the Onyx 230 not the 220, thankfully I wasn’t the person that wrote that one up. :) BTW, it has been fixed since you wrote in.

Not that I don’t make a lot of mistakes, I certainly do, it’s the fact Brian keeps hiring people based on their chest size instead of their prowess of the English language to check over what we write around here. You have to suffer through our mistakes while we get to stare at large mounds of eye candy every day. The more I think about it, the more I think that’s an even trade-off. :)

About a battery shootout- yes, we desperately need to do one, but… there is a good reason why we haven’t done one recently- lack of hours in the day. However… you will be seeing a full review of the new 2S Dynamite 5200 mah 50C Speedpack in the next couple of weeks. I know that’s no shootout, but we’ll be posting all the discharge curves off the West Mountain all the way up to 60 amps.

About the charge rate on your mystery lithium iron phosphate pack- you need to consult the manufacture. As a “rule of thumb” most lithium based packs we use in the rc industry were designed from the ground up for a 1C charge, but…. there are lots of other industries out there, industries with much different demands than ours, industries where the max charge rate may be well under 1C. That isn’t really typical of LiFePO4 cells (typical is between 1-5C for the cells we use in rc), but could be the case, and better safe than sorry when charging any type of battery.


There is one more stolen out of Brian’s email box, keep reading… READ MORE

Cubby

Hey guys,

Thanks for the review on the Thunder Tiger MT4 G3. I picked one up about a month ago and love it. I did upgrade the servo to a spektrum s6030 and modded the chassis to hold the battery with velcro and eliminated the goofy over tray. It is a pretty tough truck and handles great. It is loads better than the emaxx 3906 i used to have. Thanks again

Jason M.

Cubby- Since Thunder Tiger has gone to exclusive distribution through GP they’ve seemed to have really gain some traction (well that and thousands upon thousands of people reading their reviews here on BigSquid). In the past Thunder Tiger was nearly impossible to find, and goodness help ya trying to find replacement or hop-up parts. Now days you can actually find some of their products in an “average” LHS, you can actually get your hands on replacement parts, and the cars/trucks they are putting out have worked very well for us.

You mention you popped in a Spektrum S6030 servo, that’s a good upgrade as the stock servo doesn’t have the torque needed to really slam around those huge front tires. And I’ll agree with ya the stock battery trays are a bit goofy, but ours worked fine. The only other mod I would really consider to be a “must do” for the Thunder Tiger would be to put 8k fluid in the center diff. Bone stock out of the box the front tires become pizza cutters way too easy, the 8k evens out the power putting more to the rears under hard acceleration.

If anyone missed our Thunder Tiger MT4 G3 review, you can catch it at that link.


Hi, I have a stampede vxl with rpm everything, and a blitz with the cc sct combo (v2 with 3800 4 pole), was contemplating selling both to get the savage flux, main terrain is skate parks, be good to get your thoughts?!

Thanks!
Alan K.

Cubby- Assuming your Pede is the 2wd version, going to the 4wd Savage Flux opens up a lot trick options while driving a skate park. The gyro effect is much greater on a 4wd, especially one with tires as big as the Savage, making it much easier to pull back and front flips. The 4wd of the Savage will also allow you to tilt from side to side in the air (by steering to the left or right in flight), making it easier to flat land transfers. Lastly, the 8 shocks and ultra long travel suspension on the Savage will make all those cement landings at a skate park much softer. To boil it down, you are going to have a blast with the Savage Flux, it’s another level of performance over what you have right now.

Keep reading.. there’s another…. READ MORE

Cubby

Dear Cub Reporter,

How the hell can you only give the Novak Havoc a power rating of only 7 out of 10? I have one of those in my Slash and it’s way more power than I will ever use I would have given it a solid 9.5.

Darren K.
Michigan

Cubby- We’ve gone round and round at the office about that very subject. It boils down to this- it’s a 7 out of 10 compared to what? To me if I was comparing the Novak to only other 8.5 turn systems it would have been a 9. But… I ended up comparing it against all the other power systems available for 2wd short course trucks. For example, the Kershaw system on 2S that I tested months ago was quite a bit more powerful than any of the 8.5 systems I’ve tested lately. Then, pop 3S on that Kershaw system and it was in yet another level of power above that (at the 9.5 or 10 level). I went with that ranking system to inform readers that on the grand scale of power systems for a 2wd SC that the Novak 8.5 turn system weighed in about a 7, there are systems much slower, and much faster. If you are used to driving a 17.5 the 8.5 is going to feel gnarly fast, if you are used to a Castle on 4S it’s going to feel slow.

Also, my 7/10 rating definitely wasn’t a knock to Novak, their 8.5 performed well for it’s wind, and if you are truly looking for a “10″ in the power department I’m pretty sure they have the motors to accommodate you.

Btw… I’d put a stock brushed Slash system at a 4 and a stock brushed Venom Gambler system at about a 2.


This next letter is huge.. so we will avoid the cool font.. and you’ll have to click through to read the whole thing.. but it was a good letter and worth posting…..


“So after reading the transmitter shootout, I now know why my Dx3s craps the bed when it comes to the range…because they all do. Mine is way worse than most though, as it only gets about 50 feet from me when it randomly loses signal, goes into failsafe mode and applies full brakes. (very annoying and also causes some crazy and unnecessary wipeouts if doing high speed wheelies). A google search revealed that I am not the first person to experience this, but convincing customer service at horizon that it is not being caused by any fault of mine is a whole different battle that is a losing one so far. Contacting spektrum directly is just a waste of time, emails and phone calls go unanswered. Good thing it’s got a year warranty, cuz it’s gonna take all of it to get this problem remedied.

Anyways, I figured I’d throw in a suggestion for a possible entry in the next transmitter shootout.
READ MORE

Cubby

Traxxas 12800mah lipos
Hi there
just wondering if you have reviewed these yet and if you have, what would be a suggested ac dual charger to keep these bad boys fresh.
Thank you
Aleic G.

Cubby- Nope, sorry Aleic, we’ve yet to test any of the new Traxxas packs, but I’m guessing some time in the very near future we’ll be getting some for review. If not, there are plenty of other good packs on the market to chose from. :)

So… what would be a good dual “ac” charger for a monstrous 12000 mah+ pack? That answer is easy, None! Why is that? Because the power supplies that come built into “ac” chargers are far too tiny to charge large capacity packs at anything even close to a 1C (60 minute) rate. Perhaps you don’t mind 3 or 4 hour charge times, but I do, so I am only going to recommend a charger/power supply combo that can at least do 15 amps. So… for huge capacity packs like the Traxxas 12800′s, I’m recommending a Hyperion 720i Super Duo3 charger (charges at up to 20 amps on both outputs, about $280), and a MaxAmps 12V 47 amp power supply (about $80). With this set-up you can charge a pair of 12800s easily at 1C.


Hey Guys,
I hope you had a great summer.

Anyway, I’ve been noticing on your website that HPI has some new releases coming soon. I’m definitely keeping my eyes out for the Trophy Truggy and hope it makes it to the US but I’ve also noticed that it plus the two Bullet trucks and the Trophy Buggy have phillips hardware. What’s up with that?! I mean it’s almost 2012 already, so why would you put phillips hardware on cool new vehicle releases?……..I’m just say’n….

Joe C.

Cubby- What’s up Joe? Yes, we had an outstanding summer, too good to be true really. Thanks to you guys BigSquid keeps blowing up, and we get to play with rc cars for living, it just doesn’t get any better than that.

So to get to your email…. there is all kinds of sad in the answer to your question.

So why is there Phillips hardware on the “new” HPI releases? Ok, I don’t work for HPI, so my pure guess is- they sourced some really old units, units designed years ago when Phillip head screws were “acceptable”.

It’s sad that HPI is releasing “new” vehicles with Phillips head screws, not only because Phillips suck, but because it shows they don’t care enough to put out new quality products. Ok, I can see people at HPI reading that and wagging fingers and uttering obscenities at me, but….

Let’s take a look at another of their “new” releases, the HPI Mini Recon. HPI is marketing it as new, but holy cow, the platform for that sucker has been around over half a decade. Why in the world would a quality company like HPI ever do such a thing? HPI has some pretty incredible designers on staff that could have put out something revolutionary, instead they went the easier (and cheaper) route. Kinda hard to overthrow Traxxas as the sales leader by putting out a half a$$ product don’t ya think? Just say’n…


That’s it for this week, submit your angry responses, quirky questions, and whatever else that will fit in on a 5 gig hard drive to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

Cubby

I’ve been going out of my mind trying to find a 10Volt.850ma valve regulated lead acid battery for my RC dragster. Can you help me?

Thanks and have a nice day,
Rocky

Cubby- Hey what’s up Rocky, and thanks for reading BigSquid.

So… you’ve been looking all over for a 5 cell (10 volt) 850 mah VRLA for your dragster. Well… it’s certainly easy enough to find a gel cell, and it’s no problem finding an 850 mah battery, and while hard, it’s not impossible to find a 10 volt lead acid, but… I’m calling it impossible to find all those things in just one battery. If anyone out there can prove me wrong, please feel free to shoot me a link and we’ll gladly pass it on to Rocky.

Wish I could help ya on this one Rocky, but it sounds like you might have to use a more commonly available battery in your rc hotrod.


I was surfing your site looking at all the reviews and shootouts and didn’t see any info on ESC’s. I’ve found lots of other great and helpful info. There is also not much about electric motors either.

I like how your recent shootouts have been with a wide variety of names. Top of the line, middle of the road, and bargain stuff. It’s a real eye opener, especially the 4×4 RTR SCT article. I was thinking of an esc shootout with maybe Castle Creations sidewinder or MMP, LRP, vxl-3, Hobbywing, Tekin, and the like…. The problem would be trying to keep them all similar. Preferably ESC’s used in SCT’s like my slash…

Thanks for the great site,

Cory

Cubby- What’s up Cory, and thank you for the way-super-dope letter.

Ya know…. we recently attempted to do a short course motor/speedo shootout. We reached out to all the big manufactures and several were nice enough to hook us up with systems. But… when we requested systems we basically said “send us your best short course system under $200″. So… we ended up with a wide range of systems. Some came with high kv motors, others with low. Some systems could only take 2S, while others could take 6S. We already had our test “categories” made up, but unfortunately several of those made it very hard to make it a fair fight for all the companies involved due to the wide variety of systems we received. We spent a lot of time thinking about how to make things fair, but in the end we decided the best thing to do was to test each system independently.

So… we have several systems in hand and have been testing them the last few weeks. Look for my review of the Novak Havoc Pro SC 8.5 system later this week, look for my review of one of the new Viper systems next week, and look for more brushless system reviews in the very near future. Regrettably we won’t be able to compare these systems against each other in a shootout format, but at least you’ll be able to read reviews of several of the newest short course brushless systems done by us.


I live where many months of the year there is snow or rain. So NONE of my Castle Creations Monster Mamba will work.since they are not waterproof. And I really don’t want to plastic dip them to waterproof them.

Can you search or are you aware of any manufacturer offering a waterproof 6s capable ESC that is on par with the Mamba Monster? Thanks..

Or why doesn’t someone come up with a vented yet splash proof ESC box. I hate not being able to drive my stuff in the wet!

-Kirk H.
Scottsbluff, Nebraska

Cubby- Well hello there Kirk. I’m not a water sports kind of guy so I called our resident water expert Craig “The crazy ramp builder and hydroplane guy” to get more info for my reply. Based on my convo with him (and a little industry inside info I know) lets play a little game of “bad news, bad news, good news”.

The first bad news is that nobody currently makes a good 6S waterproof speedo intended for rc cars.

The second piece of bad news is that if you want a good waterproof speedo you are going to have to reduce your cell count (and probably the size of your vehicle) so that you can use a waterproof Venom or Traxxas Velineon. You have to ask yourself, would you rather drive a smaller truck on 2S with a waterproof speedo or not drive at all?

Finally… lets get to the good news. There is a 6S waterproof speedo headed for the market. It’s not here quite yet, but just be patient as it might very well be on dealer shelves before the weather in your area turns sour. :)


That’s it for this week ya bunch of wacky rc’ers. Send me your letters, pictures, Breaking Bad swag, and tax returns to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

Cubby

I whole heartedly applaud Traxxas for all they are doing to make RC a mainstream thing, but all of their focus seems to be on marketing and little on actual product development. I mean how many variations of the 1/16th E-Revo/Slash can there be? All have zero differentiation other than the bodies and some other ancillary things. I was hoping for a 1/5 scale RTR short course truck or something else ground breaking and new. Lets hope things change and they release something cool at the next hobby expo.

Keep up the good work! I really enjoy reading your website!
Cheers
JON A.

Cubby- What’s up Jon, great email, an welcome to the front page.

Personally… I really don’t have a problem with Traxxas running old platforms into the ground, financially it’s the best call and it actually works out best for the “typical” basher. For example, the Pede platform is a solid base with no glaring issues, there are parts Everywhere for that sucker, and because they produce so many of them parts are quite affordable, a perfect blend for the bashing crowd.

Traxxas popped the big bucks a few years ago for the new 16th scale platform and you just know from their history it will still be in service until well into the 2020′s. If it’s not broke, don’t fix it, I see no problem with that.

Now obviously Traxxas is sitting on top of the world totally dominating their (our) industry. So… when sitting in that position why not update the older platforms like the Pede? Would that help sell trucks? To the core rc’er yes, to the typical Traxxas buyer, probably not. So… it makes perfect financial sense to keep running the old molds until the heat death of the universe is upon us. Can’t blame Traxxas for doing what’s in their best interest and for making a good living off of good products.

But…. what really drives me batty is that Traxxas has no problem cutting huge checks for the TORC series but they can’t fix their shock caps that pop off every time the wind blows the wrong direction? I mean seriously, just how much could that possibly cost? I have no idea, but it’s gotta be less than what they spend feeding their employees during a typical TORC series race weekend. Those caps have been an issue since the Thompson Twins were on the top of the charts, come on Traxxas, cut the check and fix’em. I’ve lost literally gallons of shock oil onto our precious Mother Earth due to those shock caps popping off, multiply that by thousands of users and we are slowly turning the Earths surface to one covered with stock Traxxas shock oil! But to be serious, the biggest issue on pretty much every Traxxas truck has to be those caps, just fix’em already.


Hi just wanted to know about Savox brushless systems. Are they any good? Just about every one knows about their servos but not so much about there brushless systems. Can the BIGSQUIDRC test them or do a report to see what the pros and cones are on there brushless systems?

Thanks for any help you can give,
Riley B.

Cubby- How’s it hang’n Riley? Thanks for the email….

Ya know… the forum types can’t seem to give enough props to Savox servo’s, unfortunately every one I’ve ever used had issues pop up. And no, I don’t think I’ve ever used a full production unit, but still, their servos have left a bad taste in my mouth.

About Savox brushless systems… who’s to say you haven’t already driven one? Savox is known more for being an OEM than an actual product line so I’d be incredibly surprised if you haven’t already driven one of their units while not even knowing it.

My personal experience with Savox labeled non-sensored motors has not been good, but once again I don’t think I’ve ever used full production units. I will say one of our guys was running some crazy kv Savox 2 pole in his Slash at iHobby a couple years ago and I don’t think I’ve ever seen tires turn into that big of pizza cutters before, it was just nutz.

Anyways, just for you Riley we’ll hit up the powers that be and see if we can get hooked up with a Savox BL system for review. Till then… we had been planning on doing a short course brushless shootout, but due to the manufactures sending us an incredible different variety of systems we have deemed a shootout impossible to be “fair” to everyone, so instead we’ll be reviewing each of the systems individually. Look for reviews of multiple brushless sc systems to start popping up any Tuesday now.


Can you believe it, you’ve suffered through yet another “ASK Cubby” column. Send me your questions, sub-questions, and micro-questions to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

Cubby

Hello Brian,

First, I have a suggestion:

I just read the 4WD Short Course Shootout and 3 trucks is not so much for a shootout. You already mentioned the Losi SCTE and Associated SC10 4×4 are not in stores now. Maybe you could get all trucks out again when they are in stores and do a 4WD Short Course Shootout Reloaded or so with all five trucks.

Floris H.

Cubby- Yes, here’s another email stolen from Brian’s email.

And yes Floris, 3 trucks isn’t very many for a shootout, but it’s better than just a pair which would have only been a “comparison”.

I think the greater question is- “Why has it taken so long for Losi and AE to get 4×4 RTR SC’s on the market?” I mean, it’s only the hottest product category on the planet right now, and the Ofna and Traxxas trucks have been on dealer shelves forever. Just think how many trucks Ofna and Traxxas have already sold in a product category that neither Losi or AE has even had an entry? What happened to the good ole’ days when Losi and AE led the pack, not sat around the back trying to play catch-up? Just say’n that time sure have changed, there are new leaders in the industry…


Cubby,
Was the big news that Tamiya was supposed to release today really just their updating their web-site? Please tell me it isn’t so.
Kalis

Cubby- For those that might not have heard, Tamiya made a “Big Announcement” (LOL) yesterday. They had been teasing about it for a couple weeks, and I’ve found, at least in the rc world, the bigger the tease the more the news is bound to suck. And yes, Tamiya’s big announcement today was that they have rehashed their web-site. So yea, their “big announcement” was ridiculously lame. Where’s an uber new car/buggy/truck??? Seriously, the marketing department over at Tamiya is easily one of the worst in our industry (IMO), and yesterdays “big announcement” was further proof of that. Which is a shame really, as there are so many great marketing people out there looking for jobs right now.


That’s it for this week ya bunch of fanatics, send me your questions, answers, and attempts to ameliorate my above responses to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

Cubby Cubby- We have a winner in last nights “Win Cubbys ???” contest, it’s Kage from Durham, NH, and he just won my Speed Passion RS2 brushless stadium truck! Congrats Kage, I hope you really enjoy my truck, I already miss it, that thing RIPS hard! Also thanks to everyone for participating last night- BSRC is THE place to win!!!


hello! i am both excited and embarrassed to admit that i am now getting back into RC’s…about 20 years later! i used to drive a sweet old ‘frog’ and then got a RC10 back in the day…lost interest and now went out and got myself a new toy to play with, HPI savage flux 2350 -kid up the street selling for newfangled “nitro” truck? WHAT IS THAT…I’ll take it too!It was WAY fun, but now i want to upgrade and bash the heck out of it! I have since put in the “extension kit” and added larger wheels -big joes? – don’t know which, i just got the largest that would fit…i like the ride and handling now, lowered it too…but now with the added weight, length and bla bla…i lost a LOT of power/top speed and flips/wheelies and I want that power back. So, aside from the batteries (was running 5000mah 30C 2S (x2) what can i put in there to make it super-awesome-number-1-again? Which motor will give me most bang for buck and wheelies again/w ESC of course and what about gears? with the new power and larger heavier equip i’m sure i’ll need new ones of those too…any help will be awesome! I will make sure to add pics and a little video once i finish this “hop-up” as it is called…I’m too green at this hobby now, TOO GREEN!!!thank
you

Adam S

Cubby- Hey Adam, thanks for shoot’n us an email.

So you’ve got a Savage Flux 2350 with huge tires and a stretched chassis and it doesn’t seem as gnarly as it once did. Indeed, larger diameter tires are a lot harder to turn over, as well as gearing you through the roof. Add the extra weight of a stretched chassis and I can see where your old speed went.

How to fix your dilemma- a Castle Monster system on 6S.

So which Castle Monster? You’ll be wanting the Mamba Monster 2200kv system. The included speedo works fine on 6S, the 2200 kv motor has more grunt than your stocker, it also works fine on 6S, and the system as a whole has a ridiculous amount of backflipping/tire-shredding power.

And while you are ordering your new power system, be sure and pick up a new pinion gear. Between your big tires and going up to 6S, you’ll want to install the smallest pinion that you can. Keep in mind that even with the smallest pinion you can mesh up, your truck will still be uncontrollably fast. It will make you smile so hard your toes will hurt. :)

Enjoy, have a nice day, and I am looking forward to seeing a video of you landing a quadruple backflip off the roof of your house.


Hi Brian,

Great RC website!
I looked but couldnt find anything on nitro comparisons. Have you guys ever done one? I’m always wondering what’s the best nitro out there. More power to you guys!
Thanks,
Derrick C.
Sent from my iPad

Cubby- Hey Derrick, Brian (aka- Brain) shot me your email to post here on the front page for the entire world to read, so here it is. :)

Ya know… there was a day when most of the BSRC Bash Crew drove nitro, and not just us, but the majority of rc’ers did. Then came brushless and Lithium, and well, you already know what that did to the nitro market.

If you were to look around the ridiculously plush BSRC offices we have several nitros sitting around, the problem is, none of us want to drive them. We’d much rather push “start” on a couple battery chargers and have our trucks go balls out for 15 minutes than screw around for 45 minutes with a nitro engine to get it running correctly.

So the simple fact is- we’ve done zero nitro comparisons. And that’s not due to lack of trying, heck I hate nitro but realize there are still a lot of people out there that drive them and would appreciate some nitro love’n. I simply can’t get anyone around the office to even begin to do anything nitro related.

So… does that mean that nitro is that bad, or that brushless/Lipo is that good? Ask ten different people and you’ll get lots of different responses, but I feel it’s a combo of both. When nitro is good, it’s very, very good, when it’s bad it makes you want to beat the offending truck to death with a sledge hammer and drive to the manufactures corporate offices and start smashing heads into the wall. When brushless/Lipo is good, it’s fantastic, when it’s bad, at least it’s 100% dead and the issue can easy be tracked down to a couple of different things.

So… when will you start seeing more nitro on BSRC? I am all for it actually, but I’m not sure when we will start doing more of it here. Wrench cranks out the occasional nitro but for the rest of us, at least not until nitro ups its game with more consistent, reliable, and longer lasting products. I’ll talk to Wrench, and see if we can get him doing some more nitro articles.


That’s it for yet another week of ASK Cubby. I know you have questions and comments, just go ahead and send’em in, heck, they might even make the BSRC front page! Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

Cubby

Cubby- To start things off today I must say congratulations to Chris D. for winning my Electrix Boost buggy last night. BigSquid held the contest over on Facebook where whoever was the 100th poster won my Boost and the 100th reply was from Chris. So congrats Chris, I hope you enjoy my Boost! If you didn’t win last night no need to fret, we’ve got a LOT more contests coming your way!

Now on to the questions…


Dear Mr Cubby I am from Dallas and want to get into the rc hobby. For years I have been wanting to build a car from the ground up as a kit but after looking at current models most seem to be already built. Is there a kit on the market that you can recommend to me?

Jeremy

Cubby- Hummm…. you didn’t mention many parameters on what you are looking for, you seem to be leaving your entire buying decision to what I recommend. So… what would I recommend to a swing’n guy like you from Dallas?

Everything in Texas is big right? Of course it is, so I’m going to recommend to you the HPI 5B SS Kit. While not cheap, the 5B SS is a worthy performer, anvil tough (just watch our YouTube video of us bouncing one off a street sign), and is a lot of fun to build. Because it’s a 5th scaler all the parts (and fasteners) are nice and big and easy to see, and of course the HPI instructions are right on the mark. Once finished you’ll have a Texas size rc car to play with.

Btw, make sure you have Plenty of bench space cleared off before you start the build. Before you are done your entire work space will be filled with plenty of HPI off-road goodness! :)


There is no way you are going to answer this question but what the heck I’ll give this a shot. I bought a Speed Passion SP2 truck because of your review and I was wondern how do I know when I have the slipper adjusted right? I drive on the street but some in the yard. I read your stuff every week thanks cubby!!!!

Dixon W.

Cubby- Well hello there Dixon.

I wish you would have mentioned how you have been getting along with your new SP2, I mean it never hurts to have consumers back up our testing. During our testing period ours was tough and quite fast, I hope you are having a great time with yours.

So just how do you know when you have a slipper adjusted correctly?

Lets do the worst case scenarios first.

What happens if the slipper is too loose? If the slipper is too loose it will get too hot and not transfer maximum power to the wheels.

What happens if the slipper is too tight? When it’s way too tight every bit of shock/force is transmitted through the entire drivetrain. This can result in broken driveline parts like the spur, idler, cvd’s, etc. This condition can also make your car/buggy/truck harder to drive, especially coming out of corners, jump landings, and from a dead stop.

So how do you know when you have it properly adjusted? At the very least the slipper needs to slip when landing from jumps. From a dead stop you typically don’t want it to slip for more than a foot. If it slips for more than a foot you won’t be able to pop wheelies (the SP2 comes with a wheelie bar) and the slipper will get too hot. Start with the slipper too tight and back it off slowly till you have it adjusted to slip when you want it to (and it doesn’t get too hot). This takes practice, but it’s best to error on too tight if you must.

Don’t forget you’ll need to re-adjust the slipper for different levels of traction. For instance, if you set your trucks slipper on a pavement then go to a slick dirt track more than likely your slipper will be too tight. If you set your slipper on loose dirt more than likely it will slip far too much on pavement. Yes it takes some time, and yes it takes come practice, but I can assure you it isn’t rocket science, you will be a pro at it in a few short runs.


That’s a wrap for this week. Send me your questions, comments, jokes, and ornery ramblings to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

Cubby

yo cabby its bin a munf now & stil no new employes @ da bsrc offises? wut givs, brah? i chops it up wit brain @ all his shindigs, plus im local. i was da 1 who lent fletch my stampede so he cood compete agenst me in monster soccr, wich i now regret sinse we lost bolf games. tell brain 2 giv me a job or ill jump my mt4 g3 off a ramp in2 his hed!!!

frum urs truly, xerxes

Cubby- So… after reading your email, I’m guessing one question is “should I jump my Thunder Tiger MT4 into Brians head or not?”. The answer to that one is easy- of course you should. Heck I would if he’d stand still long enough for me to zero my sites in on him. You know that Brian- his veins are filled with Red Bull and pixie sticks making him nearly impossible to hit with an rc as he bounces off the walls.

And why hasn’t Brain hired anyone yet? I haven’t asked him why, but I’d guess because he’s been too busy. The pile of “Please oh please hire me!” emails is ridiculously huge and time is short around here. Maybe once we get caught up a bit he’ll dig in and find a few suitable employees. And yes I know we’d get caught up faster with more employees, but tell that to Brian.

Btw, after looking through that stack there are a lot of mag guys in there. Are the mags paying those guys in broken rc parts now days? Are the people they are working for just that big of a-holes? Or do they just know their current jobs are doomed? Wow…


Cubby,
I think I saw you at RCX, were you standing next to the lady in the Bigsquid booth?
Jagger

Cubby- Hey Jagger, I think I saw you at RCX as well. Were you the guy wearing the black Monster t-shirt with the black DC flatbill, black socks and Ken Block DC’s standing by the chic that looked like she professionally dances for a living? Yup, I thought that was you.

Yes I was at RCX, and yes I spent at least a full minute talking to our booth babe Mindy. I spent the other 30 minutes I was there in awe of the low attendance and how RCCA pulled the plug on their show 2 hours early. But to answer your question- I’m gonna guess that the person you saw was probably Evan, Tim, or Brian, as they were in the booth about 8 hours longer than I was. Next time don’t be shy and come on over to the booth and say hello.


It’s been a long time since you’ve done a shootout, when is the next one? One last question, where did the Saturday around the web column go?
Koby

Cubby- Yo what’s up Koby? Last question first- Jeff was the person responsible for the most excellent “Around the Web” column but he took a break to go make crazy money. Hopefully that crazy money dries up fast and we can get his column back every Saturday. :)

And yes, we’ve been slack’n like crazy on our shootouts. But… we start another one next weekend. I won’t let the cat out of the bag quite yet, but hopefully you guys will dig it, and hopefully it’ll send shockwaves through the industry. And no, it’s not another battery shootout. We know our readers love the shootouts but they take ten times longer to do than a normal review so it’s hard for us to get them penned into the schedule.


Send me your questions, videos, wacky song lyrics, and “The Gathering” ticket stubs to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!