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‘Ask Cubby’ Category

ASK Cub Reporter, 08.09.2012, Version: Left Wing Questions, Far Right Wing Answers

Posted by Cubby @ 9:44 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

I just finished reading it (the MIP SCTE review). Great job! Did you notice if the added weight savings decreased the motor temperature and possibly increase run times(less stress on the drivetrain)?
Michael L

Cubby- Hey ya Michael, what’s up bru?

Just to bring everyone up to speed here, Michael is talking about our recent MIP Pro4mance tuning kit review that we did for the Losi Ten SCTE. Yes, while doing the MIP SCTE review we did have a SCTE with a stock chassis along for comparison purposes. But.. the SCTE with the stock chassis had a much different power system than our MIP equipped truck, thus making it impossible to accurately compare temp and runtime data.

I will say that we’ve gotten a lot more runtime in with the MIP SCTE since the review and life is still all good. Particularly fun is handing it off to new people and letting them grab a few laps with it. Even guys who don’t normally pay a lot of attention to how their trucks handle come back with remarkably good comments about how well the MIP SCTE drives.

Seriously, how many ARRMA Granites did you bust-up when you did that video?
Gary O.

Cubby- For those of you that may not have seen our “Granite Beat Down Video“,
HERE is the link.

And just like the review stated, we only broke on part, a part that didn’t really affect how the truck drove (front top plate). All the footage in that vid was shot within a 45 minute time span. We did have to stop and pop on a tie-rod a few times, and we had to push the motor connectors back together a few times, but other than that, absolutely zero issues.

When we first start doing a review we run the vehicle for a couple weeks just to get a feel for how it drives, just doing normal bashing, nothing too crazy. If a truck survives that, then we keep pushing until it breaks. In the case of the Granite, we started by jumping it off the roof of a building to finish it off, but it didn’t break. Then we kept running it full speed into a concrete block building, but it still didn’t break. Then we just started slamming it, full tilt of course, into every solid object we could find. Initially, we finally gave up thinking that it still wasn’t broken. The Granite uses a bottom load battery tray, so it was only later after we finally removed the body did we notice that indeed we had broken a plastic part. At the end of the video where it says “WOW”, that is exactly what we were all saying, the Granite absolutely took the worst beating we’ve ever dished out with nearly no problems. For everyday/normal use, it should be one fantastically reliable truck.

Oh, to finally answer your question, seriously, just one.

That’s it for this week gang, submit your questions and other rhetoric to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com! If I use your question you’ll score free stickers, if I get nuts and name it letter of the month you’ll win a free BigSquidRC t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter, 08.02.2012, Version- So Many Questions, So Many Keys To Mash

Posted by Cubby @ 10:40 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

OK I think I’m about to jump on the 4×4 sct train….my? Is what is the best truck out there to get…..I’m looking for out of the box fast…tough plenty of upgrades….let me know what you think…thanks

Glenn B.

Cubby- Hey what’s up Glenn, thanks for the email, shoot us your snail mail so we can send ya some stickers.

You make it kinda tough to give you an answer as you give me very little input data to formulate an answer. So… I’ll just assume that you’ll be using a new SCT 4×4 exclusively for bashing, and that you don’t have a certain price point you are trying to stay under.

The Slash 4×4 has several things going for it.

1. Parts availability
2. It has good ground clearance making it better for driving in grass
3. It is plenty tough
4. It is plenty fast

The Slash 4×4 isn’t exactly cheap at just over $400, and it’s not the best for track use, but overall, it’s a great truck.

I can’t recommend the Helion Dominus here. The Dominus is a good truck at a great price point, but its stock power plant would need immediate replacement for it to be fast.

The Losi Ten SCTE RTR is plenty tough and better suited to the track, but has a price point of over $500, which might or might not be an issue for you.

So, to boil it down, the Slash 4×4 VXL is what I recommend for you.

This next one is a long one.. make sure to ‘read more’ to get the whole question and answer..

As always, I enjoying reading the cubby column, and as always, I say there should be “someone” writing a counter-punch column to his.

Sure, on-road is not at its best and I agree with statement that it is at an all time low…but that was the case probably two years ago. There’s been a small resurgence due to the popularity of Formula 1 (go talk to the Tamiya guys and ask them what’s been paying their bills this year…and they will tell you it’s F1). Locally, a shop holds a local/regional race on a quarterly basis, and it was suppose to be just a “Grand Club Race” at the world famous Tamiya facility test track turned out to be a 100+ racer event. Two of these races have gone by and the last turn out was over 150 entries. So I agree, on-road is not where it used to be (and when it was at its peak, it rivals the popularity we see with short course today) but it is steadily building a come back. Will it be main stream again? No, I don’t think so, because it will take something from Traxxas to make it popular again. However, the rest of the world (Asian, Europe, Some Australian) Touring Car is still the “it” class to run and most could care less about short course. It is some what shallow of American sometimes to think that what we got that’s popular is popular for the rest of the world (NFL vs. Soccer…woohoo…whole new can of worms)
READ MORE

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ASK Cub Reporter, 07.26.2012, Version- The More Serious Questions You Ask, The More Stuff I Make Up

Posted by Cubby @ 9:19 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

Hi my name is Richard and I wanted to ask if u could send me any stickers or swag? I have a traxxas stampede and just read the review of the pro line transmission. Keep up the good work.

Thanks for your time Richard P.
Albuquerque, NM

Cubby- Yo what up Richy? Thanks for the email, give me a couple days to shoot ya out some stickers.

First off, thanks for the props. And while I attempt to do as little as humanly possible around here, at times I let it slip and actually do some work.

So you have a Traxxas Stampede and you were dig’n our Pro-Line Performance Transmission review. If you are sit’n on the fence of getting one I’d urge you to get off and lay down the bucks if you ever plan on putting serious power in your Pede. Or even if you aren’t, the PL tranny is just that trick, plain and simple.

Also… you know I’m a ridiculously huge fan of Breaking Bad. For those that don’t know, it’s set in the ABQ, so Rich, if you just happen to see Bryan Cranston, RJ Mitte, or Aaron Paul walking around, snap a couple pics and shoot’em my way.

G’day Mate,

I’ve only just come across your site, I actually have no idea how, but I somehow found it through surfing for something. Well done on a fantastic layout and from what ive seen so far, lots of good rc info.

Anyway, the reason for this email is to ask if you have done an article on the perfect basher and setup?

I currently own a Baja 5SC and have built it for bashing, but after having it for a short time I realized just how expensive consumables and repairs can be with these big boys.

I’m now looking into buying a 1/10 or preferably 1/8th scale brushless car to bash with, so I can have my wish of affordable performance and ease of setup/maintenance. Looking through what’s on offer, I like the sound of the traxxas erevo’s and hpi savage flux (more so the flux as it seems a lot more simple in design) for their reliability, but they also look rather cumbersome in the handling department due to their monster truck design.

Looking at racing buggy/truggy type cars, they look awesome, seem to handle great, but I don’t think they would last too long copping the odd shitty landing due to being optimised for the track.

I noticed hpi have a 4wd trophy truck which looks cool and has a integrated roll cage that looks rather functional with protection in the right places but is a rather tiny 1/12th scale, not to mention its not brushless and the scale suspension geometry is rather archaic.

So my point is:

Is there a cool, strong, reliable, fast, and good handling brushless basher in the 1/10-8th scale sizes currently for sale? Or is there even a car that can meet most of the above that can have reasonable priced hop-ups added to complete my requirements?
Sorry for the long email, but this is something that I’m passionate about finding!!
Cheers!
Paul

Cubby- Wheewwwww…. now that was a long email, but thanks for taking the time to write in.

Sounds like you are from down under, I read today where fellow Aussie Speedy Reedy wants to sign Ryan Villopoto to team TwoTwo. I hope he does, that would be rad seeing them both putting Hondas up front in 2013.

Have we done an article on the perfect basher/set-up? Not per se, but I would think when we name one truck “Basher of the Year”, that would be our declaration of what we are thinking is the best. Btw, basher of the year for 2011 was the Thunder Tiger MT4-G3.

Traxxas E-Revo vs HPI Savage Flux, yes, both are gnarly fast, both tough, and both are monster trucks. Both have loads of ground clearance, which is a huge plus when huck’n big air and driving over rough terrain. Do they handle a track or pavement well? Not too badly, but both will traction roll when turned at high speeds.

Racing buggies/truggies. You will want to stay away from 10th scalers. They are simply too low to the ground and not built beefy enough. However, 8th scale buggies and truggies are some of the toughest rigs out there (in general), and they drive remarkably well.

You mention the HPI Mini-Trophy truck doesn’t really suit your fancy. Have you seen HPI’s larger Apache SC Flux? It’s basically a RTR brushless 8th scale buggy with uber short course truck scale looks. We have not reviewed one, but we did review its brother the Apache C1 scale buggy. If you are looking to go with scale appearance take a close look at both the HPI C1 and the SC. Otherwise, I’m gonna toss in the Losi Ten SCTE- fast, handles well, and loads of hop-ups available (TLR, STRC, MIP, and more). Or if you wanna go the monster truck route, the Thunder Tiger is the one I’d recommend, it is simply an animal.

Best o’ luck, let us know what you decide on.

That’s it for this week folks, submit your questions, answers, hate-mail, and blurry pictures to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com! If we use your letter on the front page you’ll get free stickers, and if I pick yours as “letter of the month” you’ll win a BSRC t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter, 07.19.2012, Version: Dodging Your Questions As Usual

Posted by Cubby @ 9:50 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

Hey there, big fan of the Big Squid you guys do great work. I was curious if there was a plan in the works to do a hopped up review of the Dominus 10SC. Also was interested in the possibility of seeing how the Dominus and Losi Ten-SCTE stack up against each other in a short course shootout, or more simply which would you (As in the Squid crew) recommend for bashing primarily maybe racing against a bud. I would like to see a 4wd SC on the basher approved list if you of the mighty squid deem one fit.

-Sam

Cubby- Yo what’s up Sam, good questions you have there. Oh, and shoot Brian your snail mail so we can shoot ya out some stickers.

No, we won’t be doing a review of the Dominus in hopped up mode, however, we have several more “Modding The Dominus” articles in the works. As you’ve probably noticed, all our hop-up articles on the Dominus have been geared towards noobs. You’d be amazed at how many peoples first truck in hobby grade rc is the Dominus, that’s why we gear the articles that way.

Dominus vs SCTE, which one wins? They are two different beasts. The Dominus has very soft power out of the box but once a decent brushless system is installed it’s a beast in a straight line. Both trucks have proven quite durable for us. The biggest difference in how they drive is the lack of a center diff in the Dominus. The lack of a center diff allows you to pull wheelies and it makes backflips easier to pull off, but it also makes the Dominus super sensitive to throttle input while jumping. So… the SCTE is much easier to jump (and to drive in general) but the Dominus can be more fun to bash if wheelies are your thing.

Which one would I recommend to you? The Losi Ten SCTE. It drives awesome, it’s easy to work on, and it’s quite durable. But if you were to go around the office you’d probably get 5 different answers from 5 different people.

About a BigSquidRC “Basher Approved” 4wd short course truck- we have had many a long discussion around the office about that very subject. The biggest thing holding the Dominus back is its battery tray, it’s a pain to fit after-market packs in it. I’ve lobbied to get the Losi Ten SCTE on the list, in my eyes it’s super durable, relatively affordable, and a blast to drive, but others in the office don’t have the same love for it that I do. Really, to get Basher Approved a product has to be Epically outstanding, and thus far we’ve yet to find a 4wd SCT that us up to that specification (and can be agreed upon by all of us).

hey what’s up, love your site and your reviews, definitely helped on some decisions with products between the group of us, but i got some questions for ya bud, would you be able to tell me what chargers these are in the bottom of this pic and what power supply you guys run for your chargers?

thanks man
Duane N.

Cubby- Hola Duane, thanks for the mad props yo (read that assuming I’m using my Jesse Pinkman voice).

What are the chargers in the bottom of that pic? They are some of our ATF’s (all time favorites), the Duratrax ICE. The ICE chargers have been out for years but are still available for about $100. They charge multiple chemistries and are generally a good solid charger. However, because they were designed years ago, they don’t have built in cell balancing, they are not of particularly high output, and they tend to take a long time to fully charge a Lipo. Still, we use them day in and day out to get great quality charges into our packs.

The two chargers on top are Hyperion 720iNet3′s. Pretty much state of the art Lipo chargers that have high output for quicker charging and built in balancing. They are rock solid, worry free, performers that are extremely easy to use.

About power supplies around the ultra luxurious BigSquidRC offices- we primarily use Maxamps. We use 24v DC MaxAmps power supplies when using high output battery chargers, and 12 volt MaxAmps and Competition Electronics power supplies for less demanding applications. We use the MaxAmps power supplies because they are quite affordable and we’ve yet to have any issues with them. We charge a lot of batteries on a daily basis, dependability is of the utmost importance to us, the MaxAmps power supplies do an excellent job and we never have to worry about them.

That’s it for this week, shoot me your questions and you just might see your name on our front page. If your question does make the front page you’ll get some free BigSquidRC stickers, and if I pick yours as letter of the month we’ll totally hook ya up with a free t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter- 07.12.2012- You Ask Questions, I Blow Them Off While Hooning In The Parking Lot

Posted by Cubby @ 10:18 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

Hey Guys,
Do you think you’ll be able to do a review on the MIP Pro4mance Chassis and Tuning Package for the Losi Ten-SCTE?
Thanks,
Mike L.

Cubby- Hey now, what’s up Mike? I’m not certain if it’s time for me to declare a letter of the month or not, but what the heck, congrats, you have just won a BigSquidRC t-shirt. Shoot me or Brian your snail mail so you can totally pimp it up at your local bash spot.

Is it just me, or is ASK Cubby a day late? Maybe I should have retired from the hotel bar at the HobbyTown Convention a bit earlier, but I digress…

To get to your question- yes, from what I hear we are doing a review on the MIP Pro4mance chassis and tuning kit. We are big fans of the Losi SCTE platform around here, we’ve got plenty of them laying around, and I’m personally pretty stoked to bolt up the MIP mods and see how they perform. Better springs, the uber MIP pistons, the chassis and towers, oh yea, it should make a huge difference in performance. Not that the stock SCTE drives like a hay wagon, it doesn’t, it drives awesome, but the MIP mods should take it to epic factory levels.

I have the stock brushless evader and my tires are always getting ripped off while I’m running it at high speeds and I’m looking for very durable tires that are compatible with the evader but can’t find any. I want bigger than stock tires on the back though and the front I want smaller.

Also I want a bigger motor but I want the same ESC. can you assist me in finding these parts and materials?

Shawn K.

Cubby- Hola Shawn K, thanks for shoot’n me an email. Sounds like you are doing some serious high speed running with your Duratrax Brushless Evader.

I’m not certain what you mean by your tires ripping off at high speed. To me that probably means they are coming loose from the bead, but it could also mean that they physically rip to shreds (as has been the case with stock Slash tires, among others). If your tires are simply coming loose from the bead that’s a super easy and cheap fix- add some CA glue, give it plenty of time to dry, and you are dialed. If you are actually ripping the tires to shreds, then yea, obviously you need to skip the dumb stuff and go to higher quality tires.

So one thing at a time here- you say you want smaller front tires. Here I’m gonna recommend this combo- Duratrax Evader buggy front rims (Tower part #LXCXT5, $6), and some Pro-Line tenth scale buggy front tires (like their 4 ribs, part #8175-02, $12). Now double read this- I am not certain the Evader buggy rims will fit properly on your Evader BL truck as I have not tried it first hand, so email the Duratrax guys to make sure. If they should happen to fit, they’ll be both more narrow and significantly smaller in diameter.

Bigger motor on the stock speedo? You are just begging to burn your speedo up and/or blow drive-line parts to smithereens. Yes, there are a lot of bigger (read- longer) motors that will bolt right in that will produce more torque and overall power. But… the stock motor on 3S Lipo can put out more power than 90% of drivers can ever use. If you are already running 3S on the stock system and that simply isn’t enough power for you (if you aren’t, you’ll be amazed how much faster it is), I’d recommend installing a Castle Mamba Pro SCT speedo with one of their 3800kv 1410 motors. Drop 4S on the Castle system and I can absolutely assure you that you will not want for any more power (however your truck’s drive-line will be a pile of rubble afterwards, just say’n).

I can’t recommend that you go to larger than stock tires in the rear. I say this because you simply won’t be able to properly gear your truck on higher cell counts with huge tires.

Have fun, go fast Shawn. Oh and send pics, I gotta see what you end up with.

That’s it for this week gang, hit me with your emails at Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com! If your question makes the front page you’ll get free stickers, if I declare yours as letter of the month you’ll win a free BSRC t-shirt!

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter, 07.05.2012- Version- The Star Spangled Banner of Question Answerers

Posted by Cubby @ 9:41 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

If you haven’t already decided on which transmitters to review, I’d like to ask that you include the Traxxas TQi system and possibly the FlySky GT3-B. I own the GT3-B and very interested in the TQi for the telemetry capability. I do race, but pretty much just dirt oval (Slash MDM and Open 2wd) at Maryville Raceway in Illinois when time allows. The FlySky seems to be adequate for me at this time, but I could really use the telemetry for motor temperature during the race. Love the site and definitely love the shootout reviews. Keep up the good work!!
Craig De B.

Cubby- Hey what’s up Craig? Thanks for the question, shoot us your snail mail so we can cut ya some stickers.

Maryville Raceway is a cool oval track in the Eastern St Louis metro. It’s not huge, but it is normally very well kept with a nice banking. They also have a cool crew of regs there. I haven’t been there for a couple of years, thanks for the little reminder that I need to get back out there. Tell Cliff I said hello.

And yes indeed, the HobbyPartz FlySky FS-GT3B transmitter is on the list for the shootout, in fact we’ve received a crazy amount of emails requesting it for the shootout. I’ve never seen a low end transmitter create so much buzz before, I can’t wait to see how it stacks up.

And… yes indeed the Traxxas TQi is on the list. Whether or not it makes it into the shootout is another matter. Personally I’m not a fan of it, but we have staffers who are. The ergo’s just don’t work for me, and I am not a fan of its weight distribution with an iPhone attached, but that’s just me.

It would be awesome if you reviewed some Pro-Line Badlands SC tires. Your reviews are the best!

Josh G.

Cubby- What’s up Joshua? Thanks for the email.

About the Pro-Line Badlands SC’s, we use quite a few of those around the office, most recently on our Helion Dominus. There are guys around the office that prefer other tires for pure bashing, but after having driven the Badlands I gotta say those things freak’n PWN on dirt. They get greater than expected mechanical grip on hard pack, and those suckers are missile launchers on loam. Seriously, the roost those things put off is quite impressive. What about a review on them? That would take some actual work on my part and to be honest I am quite the lazy type, but I’ll see what I can do for ya.

About our reviews, thanks for the props. Luckily we have the freedom to actually rail on product that sucks. Most of the stuff we get in is actually pretty good, but I hear we have a couple reviews coming down the pike that are just plain ugly (HPI Bullet, cough, cough, Traxxas Funny Car cough, cough).

Hey Cubby,

First off, big fan of the website. I check every day for updates, rants and reviews. Great team and great stuff you guys do!
I’d like to offer a different perspective on the “Handicap” timing systems discussed on the Cub Report (7-2-12).

First of all, I was a racing noob only a few months ago (Jan) and there are some really fast guys at our local track during our weekly races, the drivers that win just about every week. I joined the 4×4 class because it’s the most fun in my opinion, lots of fast guys, fast trucks and a great turnout every single week.

READ MORE

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ASK Cub Reporter, 06.28.2012, Version- I Leave You Longing For Real Answers

Posted by Cubby @ 9:52 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

HPI Bullet Parts
Hoi Bigsquid,
Mij name is Jeroen B and i am from Holland. I just read that a part was broken from the HPI bullet. 2 years ago I bought a HPI Bullet MT and a do have a lot of parts. Perhaps I can help you. Can you tell me what part(s) you need?

My experience with this car is great. Until now I only broke 2 parts
- Front hub carriers had a tear. I want to replace it with an upcoming hop up form HPI. I have already seen it at the toyfair in Nurenberg.
- I bent a centre driveshaft. On forums I am reading that the early models have that problem.
- oh ye I broke a shock tower (my own folt. I landed on the back on concreat after jumping 10 feet (skatepark).
For the rest I did do hop ups (anti bending plates en front plate en CVD shaft set). Recently I replaced the esc with the new HPI and that’s much better. Meer power en I like my truck!!
If you need a part and I have it I will send it to you no charge! (because I think you have a great website)
I hear from you

Jeroen B.

Cubby- Well howdy there Jeroen, and mucho thanks for the email. Be sure and send us an email with your mailing address so we can hook ya up with some stickers.

While it is good to hear that you’ve had good luck with your HPI Bullet, ours is still sitting, still broken, and still collecting dust. The parts we need aren’t available here in the states, not via hobby shop, and seemingly not from HPI USA. “Sigh” Truly a shame, it seems like a good platform that would be fun to bash. Trust me, we want to be running this thing!

And… Jeroen, I am very thankful of your offer to send us the parts we need all the way from Holland, but I must thoughtfully decline. We’ll get the parts (eventually) and grade our review accordingly. But… next time I am in Holland I will look you up and we can bench race over a fringed bottle of Dom. Till then my new friend, have fun bashing your Bullet and keep in touch.

flysky
have you guy checked out the now not so new flysky gtb3 most of our club uses them and their great for the money thanks for all the great reviews.
lance

Cubby- No Lance, I am not a big fan of the FlySky FS-GT3B (for you guys who don’t know what it is, it’s a low end transmitter). I really didn’t like the wheel or the spring used on the steering. I am not the type of person who believes everything cheap is junk and everything expensive is great, I’m the type of person that will give cheap gear an honest chance to prove its merit, but after using one for a couple hours there are just many more transmitters on the market I’d rather use. But… I’ve seen several people use them at the track and bash spots, most had good luck with them and one even raved about how much he liked his.

Thanks for the props on the reviews, we’ve got way more stuff around here to review than I think we could ever get too, but if you talk to the guys selling the FlySky transmitters tell’em to shoot one our way, we’ve got another transmitter shootout in the works.

Tire Compounds

I can’t decide which compound I should buy my new tires in. Should I buy a softer compound for more grip or a harder compound for longer wear?

Jeremy H.

Cubby- If you are a “core” basher you’ll probably want to go with a harder compound like Pro-Lines M2. Bashers tend to run on a wide variety of surfaces including on-road, and if you buy a soft compound you simply won’t have any tread left after a few hard runs. If you are a racer type you’d typically look at the compounds like this- run softer for cooler, wetter, or less abrasive conditions, and run something harder in hotter, dryer, blue groove, or more abrasive conditions.

That’s it for this week, shoot me your questions, riff-raff, and whatever is on your mind to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If we use your question on the front page you’ll get some free stickers, and if I pick yours as question of the month I’ll shoot ya a free t-shirt. Btw… we can’t send stickers through email (duh), so yes, we’ll actually need your physical address to send goodies to.

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter, 06.21.2012, Version: Q&A Can Be Fun

Posted by Cubby @ 10:32 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

Pro-Line Transmission
Is there a projected availability date? Is there a waiting list? What does one have to do to get one of these? I’m sure you get numerous similar requests, thanks for any info. you can provide.
Paul M.

Cubby- Hola amigo, mucho gracias for the email. Enjoy the stickers that will be headed out your way.

Release date for the uber Pro-Line Traxxas transmission was June 15th, but Tower Hobbies is showing late June as the date they are expecting them. So… if I had to give you a projected date to when you can actually hold one in your hands I’d say late June to early July.

What does someone have to do to get a Pro-Line uber tranny? Only three things…

1. Send me a bottle of 00′ Warhol Dom.
2. Send me a Nixon Rotolog, preferably a light woody.
3. Send me the 85′ Christmas card that President Reagan sent out from The White House. (I’m missing that one from my collection)

Or…. I suppose…. you could just order the PL tranny from your local hobby shop or from Tower, but that would be sooooo much less fun. Any which way, hang tight, the tranny will be in your hands before you know it, and I promise you it’ll be worth the wait.

E-Maxx (The Weak Links)

I have seen on the E-maxx that I just started messing with the that the front center drive shift front he transmission to the diff has a small contact area for the splined part of the shaft that allows it to slide as the chassis will flex. I do know that you can get metal CV style replacements to address that and I might have to do that. But to me it seems a cheaper and better solution would be to install metal collar nice and snug on the outer part of that plastic splined shaft. This would bear the load of torque that slams into it better since my assumption is that the inner part of the shaft pushes out with great force and as that outer part takes the load it can slip the spines and shatter the shaft. The only other choice seem to be taking it easy, but who wants to do that. So I ask, what are the options here, fabricate a collar to slip over the center drive shafts? That would cost as much up front as a CV set up more than likely to get one made at a machine shop but I assume it would make down the road cost cheaper as you should be able to re-use the collar as the drive shaft is worn out.

Also on this E-maxx I see that my Castle 2200KV brushless gets rather warm… much more than on my 1/8 buggy with the same motor. I did put the castle 40mm fan on it, but that seems to not help at all. This got me to thinking that the plastic case for the fan is doing as much to hold the heat in as the fan seems to be doing to cool the motor off. I feel that the fan setup they provide is at best a neutral wash on benefits. I have since found one aluminum 40mm fan that I bought off ebay, and I feel it will do a much better job as the case of the fan is conductive and will help draw the heat up to larger surface area instead of working t trap it. If there was any way to test the different fan options on a hot brushless system that would be a fantastic shoot out in my opinion. Who would not be willing to invest in a premium fan if we had some way to know how they rank up to each other.

Lance B.

Cubby- Wow, that’s a lot to munch on there Lance, but thanks for the email, Brian will be shoot’n ya out some stickers in the near future.

The E-Maxx was an innovative platform when it came out a decade ago, but it wasn’t without issues. Over the years the Texan behemoth has changed and refined their E-Maxx into quite a weapon of bash destruction, but yet still there are some small lingering issues here and there.

Yes, massive BL and Lipo power can still blow parts of the E-Maxx drive-train. Luckily, because the truck has been so popular and been out for so long, any part you are having problems with has a much stronger upgrade out there, you just gotta look around to see what works best for you and your budget.

And yes, the Castle 2200 runs fairly warm in the E-Maxx. The E-Maxx is no joke for weight and rotating mass, it presents a formidable load to any power system. However, can we skip the dumb stuff here? Those lil’ bitty fans simply do not move much air, certainly not enough to cool the heat being put off by most motors. Not to mention that a couple of hard hits typically break most fans leaving them useless. Focusing air from outside the body to flow on your electronics can yield much lower temps than fans ever will, but that task is not easily accomplished, and doesn’t work at all if you only do low speed driving.

There is one solid cure for handling motor and speedo temp issues- liquid cooling. I mean, you don’t see many air cooled full scale cars (or motorcycles) running around the streets. Yes, liquid cooling an rc power system would add a certain amount of complexity, and it would increase the price, but it IS the solution. Period. In your case there are water jackets available for your Castle motor, so all you have to do is find a radiator, a pump, and some tubing. Perhaps a good summer project for ya Lance? Be sure and shoot us pics afterwards.

That’s it for this week, shoot me your questions, non-sense and what-nots to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your email makes the front page we’ll send ya some stickers, and if I pick yours as letter of the month you’ll get a T-shirt!

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter, 06.14.2012, Version- You Guys Write, I Pretend To Know What I’m Talk’n About

Posted by Cubby @ 9:34 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

Hello, first let me say I love bashing now that’s out the way I have a Cen Gen 7.7 I need a brushless conversion kit for it I tried smrcinnovations but I get no response and I don’t want to send loot and get nothing! Any help will be appreciated,
Thanks in advance Ray

Cubby- Hola Ray, thanks for the email and we’ll be in contact to shoot ya some fancy-dancy BigSquid stickers in the snail mail.

What does it tell me when SM RC Innovations won’t get back with you after you contacted them? One- that either they don’t want your business, or two- that they have gone belly up. Either way, you absolutely don’t want to send them one dime.

So… you’ve got a gargantuan Cen GST 7.7 and want to go brushless with it. To me it looks like you have two choices- make your own conversion kit, or ditch the CEN. Unless you’ve got a decent fab shop at your disposal you are staring directly at selling your CEN then taking that cash and going with a genuine brushless monster truck like the Thunder Tiger MT4-G3. You would have spent $100 smackers on a conversion kit, plus nearly $400 for a good motor/speedo on your CEN anyways, so the entire Thunder Tiger truck at just under $600 is not a bad deal at all.

As Evan likes to say, “Bash Heavy” Ray, and let us know what direction you ended up going.

Love your reviews, and the site. Quick question about the Apache. When you are talking about bumping up to the Castle Monster system, were you referring to changing out just the ESC or both the ESC and the motor? And if both, then would you suggest the Monster 2200 over the 2650?
Thank you in advance,
Pete

Cubby- Hey what’s up Pete?

The speedo is really the issue in the HPI Apache. We had two test buggies and both had issues with their speedo’s, and… we just got one speedo back from HPI repair last week and we managed to break it again in a matter of minutes. “Sigh”

Because of the size and weight of the Apache a Castle Mamba Monster is the speedo of choice. No, they aren’t cheap, but if you are looking for long term issue free performance the Monster is the solution, period.

I don’t think the stock Apache “Alphastar 2350” is inherently a bad motor, we are still using them in our Apache’s and they seem to put out decent power. However, you will need to solder larger bullet connectors on its wires if you upgrade to a Monster speedo.

Flowood R/C Indoor Park

Brian, I know there has been a lot of discussion lately on Race Fees. I run the Flowood R/C Indoor Park in Flowood, MS. It is a city owned indoor off road race track and I know I am prejudice, but to me it is the finest indoor facility in the country. We are open four days a week, have membership of $50 per year and race every Saturday if we have enough. We hold six special event races per year with one of them being our BIG race. All the income goes to the city but they provide me with whatever I need to have the best track. As long as it breaks even the city will continue to keep it open. Our first year being open, we broke even. However, I don’t get paid and I did 71 birthday parties where I provide the kids with short course trucks for the parties. I also took in $12,000 in banner sales to the merchants in the city. However, if I had relied on strictly racing we would have not broken even.

(this is a long one.. so hit more to keep reading) READ MORE

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ASK Cub Reporter, 06.07.2012, Version- Your Questions, My Smack Talk

Posted by Cubby @ 10:58 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

Dear Cubby,
Do you have any idea why there are no lithium jelly batteries on the market? You probably don’t have any idea what I’m talking about, so I’ll explain:

Lithium jelly batteries are basically LiPo’s, only, the lithium has been turned into a non-flammable jelly. This type of battery could be the revolution to batteries, here’s why:

1. They are extremely safe. It doesn’t matter if you throw it off a skyscraper or mash a screw through it, these things will never go “WOOSH” like a normal LiPo would! After all, the lithium jelly is non-flammable, so there’s no way it’s going to blow up! Also, while being so safe, they aren’t any bit less powerful than normal LiPo’s! You can however still ruin the battery itself, but at least it won’t ruin it’s surroundings!

2. They are extremely cheap. The production price is only 20% of that of the current LiPo’s! I think that’s because the lithium jelly is much safer to work with, so the production process doesn’t have to be so delicate.

This is the reason behind me asking: “Why not?” So, why not? (LOL)
With kind regards,
Floris.

Cubby – Why are there no “lithium jelly” batteries on the market? Because they are too damn tasty that’s why. Every time I bring a dozen of them into the office I turn my head for a few seconds they all end up missing, then I notice “Wrench” Bill is sporting a newly plastered grin on his face. Go figure…

But seriously, oh “Floris” you have no idea, I am quite well versed in the world of esoteric battery technology, and not from just reading crap on the internet, but from a first hand perspective. In your email you’ve done a fair job of regurgitating what you’ve most likely read about “lithium jelly” technology from the net. Luckily for you I am here to give you some real life perspective on why we haven’t seen them on the rc market.

First off (besides the fact they are so new they haven’t had much time to be released).. the biggest upside of a “lithium jelly” cell is increased safety. But, there have been other “safer” lithium based cells sold in the rc world, yet they didn’t take off. For example, the A123 Lithium Iron Phosphate cells are arguably some of the safest lithium based cells ever produced, and while they did make some waves in the rc market, you won’t see them in a single car at your local bash spot now days. It’s that way for a few reasons, but to boil it down, even though they were a much safer cell consumers consistently bought other cells that had a higher energy density. Consumer voted with their dollars, and they voted for more volatile cells with higher energy densities.

Secondly… So lets just say that “lithium jelly” cells could actually be produced at only 20% of the price of a regular Lipo. If you take a quick glance at the trucks at your local bash spot I’d bet you won’t find anyone using the cheapest Lipo on the market. What you will find are a mix of different price ranges. Being the cheapest thing on the market certainly does not assure success on the sales floor (proper marketing does, but that’s a story for another day).

Lastly… For every upside there must be a downside. “Lithium jelly” batteries are said to be safer than a normal LiPo, and for that advantage it must inherit a disadvantage. In this case it’s a reduction in energy density. Would you rather have a safer 2S “lithium jelly” 3000 mah battery in your truck, or a 2S 6000 mah LiPo? The 2S 3000 lithium jelly might drive awesome in your ARRMA Raider, but with LiPo you’ll get the same great power but for a much longer runtime.

I could go on and on here, but in closing… there are new battery technologies coming down the pike all the time, most of them fizzle out and never come to fruition. However, the technology used in our current LiPo packs is pretty state of the art, you will not be seeing huge leaps in energy density any time soon. And that is not due to cost, or resources, or engineering, or manufacturing processes, it’s simply because of the law of physics. For there to be a giant leap in cell performance from what we have now is going to take a giant leap in technology and price.

Hi i have a question i suppose its more aimed at cubbie tho, in his review he stated the motor mount from the scte was a fit, i purchased one and on looking i cant figure how it would be possible as the bearing pocket is on the wrong side? Any details? My stock motor mount is still great just can’t figure out how he lined it up thanks!

Rob W.

Cubby- Rob, sorry to say but you have Associated Green Slime for brains. And not even new Green Slime, but old gooped out Green Slime. Quick word of advice- don’t lean to one side or it’s gonna drip out. Well I guess it’s that or you have the reading comprehension skills of a flashlight. Just say’n…

To make this crystal clear for poor Rob, I didn’t state the Losi motor mount would fit in the Axial EXO, I stated it was far superior to what comes stock. I totally stand by that statement. The stock EXO motor mount is needlessly complex and doesn’t hold the proper gear mesh during severe use, the motor mount from Losi is much simpler and works perfectly.

And it’s not that I don’t like the EXO, I personally love the thing and drive it on nearly a daily basis, it’s just that its motor mount is less than optimal. If the EXO motor mount had turned out to be the best thing on the market I would have said so, it’s not, so I didn’t.

I recently read your basher review of the Thunder Tiger MT4 G3 and it inspired me to purchase one. It seems to be exactly what I have been looking for. I had a quick question though. What batteries did you use in that truck? I just noticed that it does not actually come with any batteries and I have been looking around for some sort of information regarding what people are using. I have seen a few people say they are going 6s but seriously thats more than I will ever need. I want a good all around bashing truck and dont need blistering speed.

I am thinking of buying 2S 5000mAh + packs and then I can go 4S if I like but could run just 2S and have double the run time. Until I have a chance to actually try this I dont have any idea of what kind of performance to expect out of a 2S battery for this truck. Did you play with this option at all while you were testing?

Any information or advice you have to offer would be greatly appreciated and keep up the good work, I love the site!

Regards,

Brandon N.

Cubby- What’s up Brandon, thanks for the uber email.

We use a variety of batteries in the TT MT4, from Maxamps to Gens Ace to HobbyKing, we use all sorts. The vast majority of the time we run the MT4 on a 4S set-up. This gives tons of power, more than enough for wheelies, pizza cutters, and backflipping jumps. On 6S it’s just more of a good thing, crazy acceleration, more yank for going bigger on jumps etc. What we did not do was run the truck on 2S, our genetic make-up doesn’t allow us to drive something that slow.

As a very rough rule of thumb, 4S feels twice as fast as 2S, and 6S feels twice as fast as 4S. So in that case- 2S on the MT4 would feel about the speed of a bone stock brushed Traxxas Slash, which would not be horribly slow. When you get yours jam’n, hook up your 2S 5000 packs in parallel and let us know what you thought of the power output. I’d like to hear what kind of runtime you’d get on that set-up as well, my pure guess would be dern close to an hour.

That’s it for this week ya bunch of lunatics. Don’t forget- this Saturday is the way-uber-dope BigSquidRC Summer Kick Off Bash, be there or be forced to read about it on BigSquid the day after.

Submit your questions, rants, hate-mail etc to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your email makes the front page you get some free BigSquid stickers, and if I select your email as the best of the month you’ll get a free T-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cubby, 05.30.2012, Version- Your Delicious Questions, My Less Than Savory Answers

Posted by Cubby @ 9:07 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

When will you post the review of the HPI Bullet Flux MT? Your review may make my descision between the traxxas stampede vxl or the bullet mt.

I currently have the Traxxas Stampede brushed xl-5 and love it. I was looking to get into the brushless scene and try not to spend a fortune. So I have been looking at the Duratrax brushless, but it doesn’t come with a battery, the Traxxas vxl instead of the 4×4 vxl because of the cost, and then the Hpi Bullet. I have no local hobby shop as I live in small town Kansas and will not be doing any racing, just bashing. So out of those which would you recommend or is there something else? Thanks for any info you can provide.

Landon McD.

Cubby- Yo what’s up Landon? We’re sending some stickers out your way, if you put one on a cop car take a pic and we’ll post it on the front page.

Hummmm… when will we post our review of the Bullet Flux? We’ve had one in-hand now for weeks but unfortunately it broke early on during testing. Normally that isn’t a big deal, I mean trucks break when ya beat the crap out of them, but it becomes a BIG problem when there are no replacement parts to be found. So ya, we can’t finish our review until get some replacement parts and we don’t know if that’s gonna be a matter of days, weeks, or months. To boil it down, don’t hold your breathe, might be a while.

Update: We have been informed parts are on the way for the Bullet! YEAH! So watch for our review as soon as we get it fixed. For those needing parts, it sounds like HPI is on top of it, give their Help/Service line a call.

So…. what would I recommend between a Duratrax Evader Brushless, Traxxas Pede VXL, or the HPI Bullet?

The Bullet was awesome till we broke a part.. but if you can’t wait till the review..
I’ve done things, I’m talking sick, demented beatings, to the Evader Brushless that I’m fairly certain Kramer, Noff, and the rest of the Duratrax crew would personally cringe and shake their heads at. I have broken some parts on it, but overall it’s a tough platform, and the power system that it comes with has more than enough rip to put a smile on your face.

What about a Traxxas Stampede VXL? Well how about just adding a BL system to your current brushed Pede? You say you love your current truck, so why not save some cash and just pop a brushless system in it? Going to 4wd is a huge advantage in a basher and is well worth the extra cash, so if you can’t swing it right now pop an affordable BL system in your current Pede while you save up, that’s my recommendation for you. Keep in touch and let us know what you end up doing.

T-shirt winning question
Hello Cubby!

I am new to the hobby, a little over a year now and have a small stable of bashers with the most recent being a brushless slash 4×4. I built it from a rolling chassis I bought for stupid cheap and have had nothing but problems with the brushless systems I have tried to put in it. First a used Traxxas velineon system and then a new Venom 550 system” from the Squids recommendation” have gone up in smoke. I have tried running 2s 40c and 3s 25c and the smallest pinion (that can still get decent teeth mesh) mostly on a very loose local track and bombing through construction sites. I drive like I stole it with all my trucks and break things on the regular but I cannot afford to go through electronics like this. Can you give me some pointers on how to save my electronics from melting to the ground and how you guys figure out best gearing for your rides.

Thanks
Cory “yo soy EL lagarto”
Denver

Cubby- Hey now Cory, you won me over with the title, you are our first question of the month T-shirt winner, congrats and wear the BSRC colors proudly bro. You sound a lot like us- blowing up everything we can get our hands on and driving everything like we just stole it!

How do we figure out gearing on a new ride? We do this by measuring temperature during short runs. For example we’ll install a new pinion then run the truck hard for 1 minute then bring it in and temp it. If the motor is under 140 we drive it for another minute then re-temp, then keep doing that for the entire duration of the first run on the new gearing. What you don’t want to do is bolt up new gearing then go out and run for 15 minutes before temp’n it, your motor may have hit 220 degrees at only 5 minutes in and your magnet is already screwed. Life at 140 and below is awesome, what you don’t want to see is temps over 160 when measured on the can of the motor. If the can of the motor is temp’n at 160 the core of the motor can easily be 200+, meaning your magnet has been overheated. Once a magnet has been over-heated you lose efficiency, torque, runtime, and it’ll be nearly impossible to keep it running cool ever again (at decent power levels).

Tips to keep from melting down electronics-

1. Obviously, keep an eye on temps and use the proper gearing.

2. Make sure your trucks drivetrain rolls nice and free. Even a modest amount of binding in your drivetrain can skyrocket the temps of your electronics.

3. Do what you can to get good airflow to your electronics. Little fans can help, but good airflow through your truck is a much more effective way of keeping your electronics cool.

4. Listen to more Icelandic Techno while you are out bashing. Trust me on this one!

5. Do what ya can to eliminate resistance in your connections. Use Traxxas connectors, don’t use wire that’s too small for the application, and give all your solder joints a close inspection (including a good hard yank!).

One last note, you come across as a worst case scenario type of basher, we have a few of them floating around our offices- Adam!, Evan!, “Zero Cool” Jeff!, Bill!, Brian!!! Such being the case I am gonna recommend you skip the dumb stuff and just pop an 8th scale power system into your Slash 4×4. A Castle Mamba Monster and 2650 kv motor will be a lot harder to melt down in your Slash 4×4 than a normal 10th scale system. Have fun, go fast, enjoy your BigSquid shirt, and let us know if you are able to melt down an 8th scale system.

Oh heck ya, you’ve read the entire ASKCubby again, props to you, you made it further than 99% of the population! Thanks for reading and submit your questions, theories, quandaries, sext’s from your x’s, and whatever else might be on your mind to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com! If your letter makes the front page you get some way-super-uber BigSquid stickers, and if you are the lucky person that I pick as being letter of the month you get an ultra-fly-wanna-be-909 BigSquidRC t-shirt!

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter, 05.24.2012, You Write In I Vomit Responses

Posted by Cubby @ 8:56 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

Does it bother anyone else at big squid that a majority of basher approved trucks aren’t sold anymore?
Jamie B.

Cubby- Now this is an example of a question I like, right to the point, no fluff.

After asking all the guys around the office, no, it does not bother us, not a single one of us. Why doesn’t it bother us? Because “Basher Approved” means a lot to us, only the products that are the best of the best get basher approved. If we test 50 products and only one impresses us enough to be basher approved, then so be it, we are not going to lower our standards simply to have more products listed.

Btw… we’ve had multiple manufactures ask to “buy” our basher approval on certain products, we have had to kindly explain it’s not for sale, it can only be earned. So… to boil it down, don’t hold your breathe expecting our basher approved list to explode anytime soon, but thanks so very much for your concern.

Seen this?
Hahahaha! Have you read the latest issue of Driver? All you internet wise guys got your a$$es handed to ya. Climb back in the hole you crawled out of Cubby.
Phillip G.

Cubby- Yo what’s up Phillip?

If a tree falls in the forest and there is no one around to hear it, did it actually make a sound? No, I haven’t seen the latest issue of RC Driver, a lot of people haven’t. I did a rant a couple years ago on how hard it was to find an issue of Driver and Bob Hastings, who worked at Driver at the time, emailed Brian asking him for my zip code so he could send me a list of “all” the local places I could buy the mag at. Brian shot him my zip code, but we never heard back from Bob. And… just a couple months ago I went looking for an issue of Driver, I hit one grocery store, two book stores, and one hobby shop, needless to say I came home empty handed.

All the mags, whether they be an rc mag, a motocross mag, Road & Track, or People Magazine, are all staring directly at a Kobayashi Maru. There isn’t much future for them, it’s no ancient Chinese secret that paper is dying and everything is going to the web (and even less chance of survival for mags with horrible street cred because all they do is kiss manufactures a$%es). So… if you can’t find an issue of a mag, or even if you can but you don’t trust what they say, does anyone actually care what was inside?

Next week I’ll be posting the “letter of the month” with the winner getting an uber new BigSquid t-shirt, I know ya’ll just can’t wait! So don’t be shy, submit your questions, etc etc etc to me at Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your letter makes the front page you’ll get a nice selection of BSRC stickers to plaster your whip with!

YOUR Cub Reporter

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ASK Cub Reporter, 05.17.2012, Me Mauling More Questions

Posted by Cubby @ 8:38 am. Filed in: Ask Cubby

question for ask cubby
I have a Losi SCTE on your recommendation and I love it. I am setting up another one for my brother since he lives close to NorCal Hobbies and it is one of the more popular classes. I wanted to know if you had any issues with the Castle Sidewinder SCT with the 1410 motor in that truck. I have read on the forums that some people have tried it and had thermal issues with the ESC, but your review did not mention any ESC overheating problems. It seems like a good value for what I am trying to do. Thanks.

BTW, I wore my bigsquid shirt to the track last month and got props from Race Director Big Steve, he says he knows you guys.

Tom N.

Cubby- What’s up Tom, expect some BSRC Stickers headed your way sometime soon. (send Brian your info)

When we tested the Losi SCTE it was late winter/early spring in our area, so it was driven mostly at cool indoor venues and when we drove it outdoors the ambient temps were quite low. Yes, we originally ran our SCTE on a Sidewinder but ran into temp issues when it warmed up outside or when we geared it for serious speed. I would not recommend running a Castle Sidewinder speedo in the Losi SCTE or any 4wd short course truck for that matter. I consider the Castle Max Pro SCT to be the best speedo for that application, although you can easily toss a Mamba Monster in there (if you have the extra bucks) and you’ll never, ever have to worry about speedo issues. I also consider the Castle 1410 3800 to be the motor of choice if you plan on running on 2S, if you run on 3 or 4S the Castle 1415 2400kv is the better choice.

Peace and love, peace and love.

Hey Cubby,
I’m a big fan of your website and saw the “Modding the Helion Dominus” page. I was wondering what brushless system you would recommend for me to install in my Dominus. I got it last Christmas but I’ve gotten used to the speed and need some more.
Also, would you recommend modifying the battery tray to fit two NiMH batteries instead of running a LiPo? I have NiMH batteries and don’t really want to spend the money to buy a $80 LiPo when I could get more power by running two NiMHs.

Thanks,
Evan J.

Cubby- Yo yo yo, MTV Raps Evan.

Hummmmm…. what affordable brushless system would I recommend for your Dominus? I (somewhat) recently reviewed the Viper Copperhead R 550 BL system (read it here ) and I can say first hand that it’s a good bang for the buck. The Viper will instantly turn your Dominus from “mild” to “wild” and it will instantly put a huge grin on your face. Plus, because the Dominus doesn’t use a center diff you’ll be able to pull some gnarly wheelies with it. 4wd short course wheelies are great fun no doubt.

Btw, I hear Helion has some hop-up parts on the way for the Dominus to make sure it’ll be able to handle crazy brushless power. We have not had a problem with ours, but then we’ve only run ours on 2S, I’d guess the hop-up parts are to help keep the truck together on higher cells counts/power levels.

About your battery question…

I would not recommend installing two Ni-mh packs in the Dominus for these reasons…

1. It’s gonna be a serious PITA to get them to fit properly and to be properly secured. Perhaps the worst designed part of the Dominus is its battery tray.
2. Because Ni-mh’s are so heavy they are really going to throw off the weigh distribution of the truck. This will result in a truck that turns differently from left to right and the way it jumps will be negatively affected.

I would recommend you use a single Ni-mh pack on a new brushless system. BL will give you a huge leap in power over stock and a single Ni-mh will fit and work just fine (assuming you are using decent quality Ni-mh cells and NOT the stock battery pack).

That’s it for this week ya bunch of crazy hooligans, hit me with your questions at Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your question makes the front page you’ll get some uber BSRC stickers, and if I pick yours as the question of the month you’ll get a ultra-trick Squid t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

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