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axial-wraithspawn-unboxing

A few years ago the Axial Wraith made a ton of waves when it was released. It was the platform (along with the SCX10) that helped make Axial a household name with hobbyists. Up until the Yeti release over the summer, it had long been the king of the 2.2 wheel trucks. The combination of the release of the Yeti rock racer and fact the kit hadn’t been updated in about 2 years left many wondering if the vehicle was poised to ride off into that big hobby shop in the sky.

That was not to be though, as Axial recently announced an updated version of the platform, the Axial Wraith Spawn. We just got our mitts on one and are currently working on the review. While you can expect to see it go live sometime over the next couple of weeks, here’s what you’ll find in the box. The truck has a street price of $369 and you can get a proper rundown of features right here courtesy of Axial’s website.

Want to see more unboxings here on Big Squid? Click here.

T-Bone Racing Skids Axial YetiWhile the Axial Yeti is a pretty good climber out of the box, a slicker surface underneath can help it get over obstacles more easily. To help slide right over those tough spots, T-Bone Racing has introduced a chassis skid plate and a-arm skids. Both are made from ultra-tough nylon and come with TBR’s lifetime warranty against breakage. The chassis skid plate helps to provide a smooth surface under your Yeti, while the a-arm skids will help keep it from getting hung up on branches or other pointy objects.

The TBR chassis skid plate has a part number of #12014, a street price of $17, and you can get more details at This Link. The a-arm skids are priced at $18, have a part number of #12016, and Right Here is the link to more information over on TBR’s website.

Want to see more T-Bone Racing products? Click Here to see more on BigSquidRC.

axial-yeti-diff-lockThe Axial Yeti is a capable “do it all” type of truck, what-with a plush suspension, 4wd and a solid locked rear / open independent front setup. This works great for someone looking to do a bit of crawling but still maintain a vehicle that performs reasonably well at high speeds and/or in the air.

I didn’t buy this thing to use as a “do all” type of rig, though. My Yeti is being built as dedicated trail machine, and as such that open diff just isn’t going to cut it. I need full time 4WD at all times. It was time to lock it.

Before locking the front, lets talk limited slip. Some people use very heavy 1/8 buggy silicone diff oil which lets it spin only under heavy duress. This (in theory) gives the best of both worlds. You keep the front locked but if it gets really nasty it’ll have some give. You’ll also have a bit of easier handling given that the front will open up under hard cornering. I’ve never really seen this work out well. When crawling you almost always wind up just spinning the tires on the rocks. I saw that a lot with the Vaterra Twin Hammers last year.

So yeah, if you are wanting to really do any crawling with it you will have to lock the diff. There are several lockers available on the market but due to the fact that I have no need to ever unlock the front I figured I’d go with a very cheap and reliable method – JB Weld.

JB Weld is a two part bonding epoxy that can be had on the cheap (about $6) at most auto supply stores. I started using it in differentials around 15 years ago (I’m getting old, yikes) when I took my first foray into the world of r/c pulling and it’s never let me down. It’s still really popular with hobbyists as when allowed to cure properly it’s basically like welding your gears together.

Before I show you how to do it, remember that the big downside with the stuff is that it is permanent. If you ever want to unlock the diff you’ll need a brand new set of parts. It can also be messy if you aren’t careful. Another thing to be aware of is that if you roast the ring and pinion you can’t open up the front to salvage the internals…again, you’ll need all new parts for a new one. So yeah, in general a dedicated, removable locker is a more elegant solution. Ok, without further adieu hit the “Read More” and let’s get to it.
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Hot Racing Axial Yeti UpgradesIs the Axial Yeti the new T-Maxx? It is selling like hotcakes (even to people not into the scale/crawling genre) and it has been getting tremendous love from the aftermarket.

Some of the latest aftermarket goodies for the Yeti come from Hot Racing. They have a bunch of new aluminum upgrade parts to make the Yeti even tougher while upping its bling factor.

First up is an aluminum transfer case. It has a part number of #YET38TC01 and is said to guard against torsion flex when using the two speed tranny.

Next up is an aluminum motor mount. It has a part number of #YET1806 and comes with “3 heat buttons” to help pull heat away from the motor.

Also available is a new aluminum center motor gear mount. This piece has beveled edges and is laser etched with the HR logo for a cool look. The part number is #YET38A01.

To help keep heat down in the slipper, HR has a new vented double hex slipper. This 6 star design has a polished aluminum look and a part number of #YET15H.

If you are looking to take some slop out of your Yeti’s steering, Hot Racing has a pretty slick looking carbon fiber steering drag link. To help keep from stripping out wheels they also offer hardened aluminum wheels hubs. These allow you to bash even harder and have a part number of #YET10A06.

Check Out This Link for all the upgrades that Hot Racing offers for the Yeti.

Click Right Here for a very HOT TGIF Mystery Link.

axial-yeti-gearhead-trail-torch-light-bar

Happy Halloween to you and yours! This week we are looking at things that go bump in the night!

Running your scaler at night is extremely fun and if you’ve never tried it you really should. It’s becoming more and more popular for clubs to take to the trails after the sun has gone down. The difficulty factor is upped considerably for both truck AND driver (it’s pretty easy to get whacked in the face when you can can’t see the trees in front of you!) and terrain that was easy before can seem much tougher when the visibility is low.

The rise in scale, high quality, affordable LED vehicle lighting is responsible for the boom. The folks at Gear Head RC, Vanquish, and Axial make some killer pieces to brighten the night. The above shot is my brand new Axial Yeti sporting a Gear Head Trail Torch mounted to their new low profile roof rack. I’ve been using this bar atop my SCX10 for close to 2 years now so, for me, installing it on the Yeti is a literal passing of the torch to my new main vehicle. (SCX10, we’ve had some good times buddy…*pours a 40 on the ground*). The delrin mount is pretty trick and protects the bar during a rollover. I plan on writing up a detailed mini-review on both products in the near future.

Anyways, if you are hardcore about running when it’s dark, a simple bar or few buckets won’t suffice; you’ll need to look into rock lights. Rock lights are LED’s that mount either under the body or somewhere on the chassis to illuminate the whole under carriage. When I first got into scale crawling I saw these lights and thought it looked completely stupid. “This is the r/c equivalent of a kid heading to Auto Zone and putting neon running lights on his Honda Civic”, I thought. Boy, was I wrong.

The Axial RECON G6 series is infamous for doing a night stage, and it was here that I discovered the importance of illuminating the actual terrain under the truck. You see, a light bar will shine straight ahead leaving a big deadspot/shadow in front of the tires. This makes wheel placement extremely difficult to see. A good set of rock lights coupled with a bar will turn your vehicle into an all seeing glowing orb, much like Mr. Burns in the woods after a life of working in the Springfield nuclear powerplant:

So yeah, rock lights in tandem with a good light bar are a must if you want be fully capable of taking on anything the dark throws at you. The trucks in the shots below are outfitted with Nickelfab rock lights…which I soon hope to have plumbed throughout the Yeti. Again though, that’s for another time :)

One last thing to consider before taking on the night: make sure you aren’t running illegally! National and county parks are traditionally popular spots for crawling and trailing, but pay attention to park ordinances before attempting to run after sunset. Many local parks around me close an hour after sunset so you don’t want to be ticketed by an angry ranger. It’s best to just call the Parks Department office for permission to put on a “night hike” OR just wait for a designated special day where they stay open late. To give an example, one of the biggest parks in St. Louis stays open until 10pm and permits night hiking/mountain biking one Wednesday a month so this has become the go to spot for big r/c scaling night meets.

Whatever you do, be safe and remember to bring friends…a long line of illuminated r/c’s is a real sight to see. Scaling doesn’t have to stop at sunset!

That’s it for this week, have a great weekend and be sure to snag lots of candy tonight! Happy Halloween!

For more Axial news on BigSquidRC you can click here. For the latest in scale r/c you can click here.

Dash Offroad Products Hard Top Axial YetiIt is impossible to leave an Axial product stock isn’t it? One of the latest upgrade parts for the Axial Yeti comes from Dash Offroad Products. They have a new Hard Top that helps make the Yeti stronger while adding a scale authentic look to it.

The hard top comes in two versions. The long version has a part number of #DASH006 and is street priced at $10, while the short version has a part number #DASH005 and is priced at $9. You can hit up This Link to get yours on order from TheToyz.com, or you can Click Here to visit the official Dash Offroad Facebook page.

Get More Axial news on BigSquidRC.

Asiatees Hobbies Axial WraithThe Axial Wraith has become a favorite among crawlers, trailers, and bashers alike. To beef up or to uber-it-out, the folks over at Asiatees Hobbies have a bunch of aluminum upgrades in stock. These are available in a bunch of different colors from brands like Boom Racing, TopCad, and GPM. To check out all the different parts available simply follow This Link over to the official Asiatees website.

Click Here for more Asiatees Hobbies news right here on BSRC.

Hitec WP Servos BSRC
Crawling/scaling can be really hard on servos. Not only are they expected to turn heavy, weighted tires on unforgiving rock, but most of the time there is no servo saver attached. Yep, direct horns are the only way most crawlers roll (versus using a saver that will give) leaving the servo unprotected to absorb the brunt of what’s thrown at it. To make matters worse, sometimes its underwater.

I don’t care what kind of servo you have, eventually this type of abuse is going to leave you with broken teeth. Don’t just throw the unit away, though! A lot of newbies don’t realize that many mid to high range servos can quickly be fixed by a trip to the dentist (aka your local hobby shop) to pick up a new set of gears.

A super popular scaling servo (and bashing) upgrade is the trusty Hitec 5646WP unit. The servo puts out around 150 oz or torque, is waterproof, has metal gears, is digital AND is relatively easy on the wallet at $54.99. I think they are the perfect upgrade for an Axial SCX10. That isn’t marketing garbage, I currently own 4 of them and use or have used them in a variety of trucks; 3 SCX10′s, Wraith, CPE Barbarian, Tamiya TXT-2 and soon to be my new Yeti.

Last weekend I finally broke some teeth during a monster truck freestyle session and figured this was the perfect time to show how easy they are to fix. Keep in mind this unit ain’t no spring chicken. It’s about 2 years old and while it used to be blue once upon a time, I painted it black a long time ago and most of it is peeling off after abuse. Click the “Read More” and I’ll show you how easy it is to get the old girl back up and turnin’.

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Axial has given the go ahead to talk about the new Axial Racing Wraith Spawn Rock Racer. Besides the Axial standard of plenty of licensed parts, they have continued to update and refine the already proven Wraith platform. Axial continues to drive towards more waterproofing, and with winter coming up, we know that’s an important box to check off. The ESC, Steering Servo, and Receiver box now all claim waterproof. For those of you that have been thinking about picking up a Wraith, maybe this is the one that tickles your fancy?

Some highlight features are:
• WB8 HD Wildboar™ driveshafts
• Dual slipper clutch
• Single-coil, adjustable shocks
• Heavy duty differential lockers
• Officially licensed 2.2 Method IFD™ beadlock wheels
• New Spawn body on full tube frame composite chassis
• Driver figure and molded interior
• 2.2 Ripsaw™ tires
• AE-5 ESC w/ drag brake – 3S LiPo capable (waterproof)
• 20T motor
• Metal gear Tactic TSX45 MG servo, 151 oz-in, water resistant
• Waterproof receiver box
• Spawn body compatible with Wraith, AX10 and SCX10 chassis

The part number is #AX90045, and it is priced at $369. You can get complete details by heading over to This Link on the Axial website.

Make sure to check out the video below!

Axial WaterproofingThe good folks over at Axial Racing recently posted a very detailed explanation of exactly what the term “waterproof” is. Some hobbyists might think that waterproof means you can just throw your truck into a swimming pool without worry, but that is not the case. The Axial crew took the time to explain, in depth, exactly what water does to each part of your truck. They also explain the IPX industrial ratings often used on waterproof electronics. It’s a great read and very informative, Click Right Here to check it out over on Axial’s blog.

Get More Axial news on BigSquidRC.

T-Bone Racing Differential Skid Plate Axial AX10 RidgecrestT-Bone Racing sure makes a wide variety of products. From wheelie bars to bumpers, they are doing their best to keep bashers from busting up their cars.

One of their latest creations is a Diff Skid Plate for the Axial Ridgecrest. The skid plate is aimed for the truly gnar-core off-roader and comes with a lifetime warranty. It is priced at $13 and includes everything needed for a clean install. These have a part number of #12015 and are available for your bashing pleasure right now. Get full details over on the official TBR Website.

Want to see what else T-Bone Racing has been up to? Check out This Link on BigSquidRC.

MIP C-Drive Axial YetiThe Axial Yeti is tough but its plastic rear driveshaft can be prone to breakage under heavy use. If you have been twisting/breaking the stocker, MIP have announced a new X-Dutry C-Drive Kit. For the ultimate in durability, the MIP unit is made from heat treated steel and uses their spline drive technology.

The part number is #14390 and it has a street price of $45. For complete details hit up the official MIP Website.

You can find more MIP news Right Here on BigSquidRC.

axial_yeti_xl_201

Yep, the review has been posted… but there are a few things that we didn’t show that are in the box that we felt needed to be shown. Plus, we didn’t show the box in the review. Everyone likes to see what the boxes look like, what they say, etc. So enjoy the unboxing photos of the Axial Yeti XL! A few of us wanted to drive it around with the box on. Something about it was entertaining with the wheels sticking out.

Make sure to hit Read More to see a nice surprise that comes with the XL nobody has mentioned yet…
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