Based on the 747 nitro sedan, Serpent has announced the electric 747-e. Starting out as a nitro sedan gives the car a couple of advantages, it makes the 747-e easier to drive, and you end up with a car that is more rugged than a “normal” touring car. Recommended power system is a 3S LiPo, 540 brushless motor of less than 5000kV, and an 8th scale ESC.
* Carbon fiber chassis, top deck, battery holders, and shock towers
* Gear diffs front and rear
* Bearings used on roll bars
* CVDs used in front, dogbones used in the rear
* Low friction belts
The part number for the 747-e is #804006 and you can get complete information at This Link on Serpent’s website.
For more Serpent news check out This Link on BigSquidRC.
Serpent 747-e Gallery
The more choices for bodies the better, it seems everyone likes a different body style. Recently JConcepts announced a body style you don’t see every day, a 1972 Chevy C10. The Chevy body is intended for on-road use on your Scalpel converted Traxxas Slash 4×4 and is fully licensed by General Motors.
* Wide body design
* Shallow bed area
* Comes with Chevy C10 decal sheet
* Requires use of #2173 JC bumper conversion kit
The Chevy C10 has a part number of #0267, it is priced at $43, and you can get complete information at This Link over on the JConcepts website.
Click Right Here for more JConcepts news on BigSquidRC.
Congratulations to the Losi 5IVE-T for playing some awesome defense and pulling off the win in our 2014 March Bash-ness Finals. Every year we are surprised by the way our readers vote, and this year was no exception. The last 3 rounds were insanely close. Closer than we have ever had. Even the finals, the Losi 5IVE-T had 52% of the votes over the ARRMA Granite BLX, winning by just 16 votes!
Both vehicles fought hard to get to the finals, against some very tough competition. You the readers, decided on the 16 vehicles that would make it into the bracket, and you the readers have voted for the winner!
A lot of people (especially us) were not sure which way this was going to go. The Losi 5IVE-T is a dream vehicle that most people might never have a chance to own, while the ARRMA Granite BLX was an affordable basher on a much smaller scale. Both very durable, and both very worthy of being in the finals.
Congrats again too both teams making it this far, and to Losi for hanging onto the lead by a few votes in the final hour.
Scale 4×4′s are white hot right now, and one of the trucks leading the charge is the Axial SCX10. The latest version to come down the pike is the sweet looking Casey Currie themed Jeep Wrangler Unlimited C/R Edition. Is this RTR JK worth your hard earned duckets? Click the “Read More” to find out.
Now that the weather has been better and the first installment of the build project up for your viewing, I started spending time with my Blade 350QX, and couldn’t help but start looking at modifications and changes. Now a new product was released by Xtreme Productions for the 350QX: A 3-bladed prop to replace the stock 2-bladed propeller. Which raises a question I get a lot at work and I did a little research just for you: What is the point of multi-bladed props and why do I care?
In the case of multirotors, multi-bladed (mainly 3-bladed) props have one primary purpose: Moving more air. With the ability to push more air, multirotor aircraft are much more stable which is perfect for aerial photography, and also makes aerobatic tricks easier to perform. The unfortunate downside to this great plus is that it does reduce run time on the aircraft’s battery. Now if these advantages/disadvantages are for you 350QX owners, I’d check out the Xtreme Productions blades via their website right here, or check out their Carbon Fiber upgrade standard props here. Everyone else, shop around for your ideal multi-blade prop, which usually in the same size range. I recently saw some in the 7-8″ range from Master Airscrew, so that may be a good direction to start.
Next week will be the last part of Blade Runner, called “It’s All About Balance”. Until then, Stay Shiny and Keep Flyin’!
The previous hop-ups we performed on the Vaterra Halix didn’t take much elbow grease. Installing pre-mounted wheels & tires can take as little as 5 minutes, while installing a pre-painted body might take less than half an hour. On the flip side of the coin, installing MIP CVDs on the Halix might be the most time consuming hop-up to be found. While installing CVDs on most vehicles is a snap, because of the design of the Halix, both differentials must be removed and fully dissembled, meaning this job might take you well over an hour. However, the stock driveshafts have a tendency to break, so installing MIP CVDs should be considered an absolute must if you plan on bashing hard.
How to install MIP CVDs on a Vaterra Halix -
1. Bust the MIP CVDs out of their package and fully assemble them. Follow their supplied directions, taking extra note to use the supplied thread locking compound on the grub screws used to secure the CVD pins, and make sure the grub screws mate up to the flat spots on the pins. Also make sure to use the supplied grease on the mating surfaces to reduce friction.
2. Use the four way wrench that came with your Halix to remove the wheels.
3. Use a 2mm hex wrench to remove the wheel hexes from the axles.
MIP Halix Gallery 1
Hit the “Read More” button to check out the rest of the article after the jump.
Our friends over at Pro-Line recently did a short write up on how to convert your Traxxas Rally or Slash 4×4 over to a dedicated on-road machine. In the article the Pro-Line crew shows you how to mount up a pre-painted scale body and Striker SC on-road tires to your Traxxas, as well as how to properly set up the suspension for on-road use. If you’ve ever been interested in dialing in your Slash 4×4 or Rally for on-road, you can check out the entire article at This Link over on Pro-Line’s blog.
Click Here to check out more Pro-Line news on BigSquidRC.
The crew over at Tamiya have a new vehicle for the crawling crowd called the Rock Socker. The Rock Socker is a kit that uses a modified Stadium Blitzer body mounted on a Tamiya CR-01 chassis. With 4wd, 4-link suspension, and solid axles, it should be able to crawl over some gnarly terrain.
The Rock Socker has a part number of #58592, a retail price of $530, and you can Click Here to check out its page over on the Tamiya website.
Check out This Link for more Tamiya news on BigSquidRC.
Dynamite RC has announced higher output 80C Reaction series LiPo batteries. The 80C Reaction LiPos are intended for the serious basher or entry level racer and come in 2S, 3S, and 4S cell counts. They all use hard cases for added protection and come in capacities up to 6400mAh.
* 5C charge rate
* Capacities from 5700-6400mAh
* Available with prewired Deans, EC3, EC5, and Traxxas connectors
* XH balance connectors
* New cases for increased durability
Prices range from $95 to $165, they are expected to hit hobby shops in early May, and you can get more information at This Link over on the Dynamite website.
Click Here for more Dynamite news on BigSquidRC.
Now these past few weeks I’ve been promising a build here on Raging Rotors, and yes I may be a bit overdue. Yet I will not give you one, not two, but THREE build projects in one series. I have gone so crazy to the point where I picked up enough gear to discuss three builds at the same time! Madness you say? I think not! For these builds I did decide on working with two V-Tail quadcopter frames, after all the buzz I generated with an earlier article, and the third frame will be a quadcopter. Later in the series we will discuss electronics, gyros, and more.
What makes a good multirotor frame? Honestly it depends on your overall purpose, whether it is for casual flying, FPV or other photography, or aerobatic stunt flying (though Multicontroller helps with that, too…but that’s for later). Here are a few things to consider:
Check out your options after the ‘Read More’…
The crew over at TheToyz have a cool new Tuner Kit to take your drift car from bland to show worthy. Each kit includes rear view mirrors, an inner-cooler, chrome mufflers, brake discs, two different styles of windshield wipers, and all the necessary mounting hardware. While the tuner kit is aimed at the drifting crowd, several of the parts can be used on just about any build to add the scale realism you are after.
You can get the tuner kits with red, blue, or chrome brake discs, and they have an affordable street price of $8. To get more information simply Click This Link to head over to TheToyz official website.
Click Here to find more TheToyz news on BigSquidRC.
One of the main vehicles that we use during BigSquidRC demonstrations is the Thunder Tiger MT4-G3 Monster Truck. The MT4 is a great demo vehicle- it goes huge on the jumps and is generally tough as nails.
AsiaTees GPM Parts Gallery 1
Our friends over at AsiaTees Hobbies know how much we thrash our MT4 so they sent over a care package of GPM Racing Products Aluminum Upgrades. The GPM aluminum parts are available in a wide variety of colors and we found them very easy to install on our demo truck. If you are looking to up the bling factor of your MT4, hit up This Link to get more information on the GPM parts over on the AsiaTees website.
AsiaTees GPM Parts Gallery 2
Click Right Here for more Thunder Tiger MT4-G3 hop-up articles on BigSquidRC.
MIP Wrenches are the best you can buy and we use them every day around the BigSquidRC offices. However, they do have one downside, when you have a half dozen of them laying on your pit table, it isn’t easy to tell from a glance which size is which.
The folks over at MIP have now solved that problem with their new Wrench Wraps. The wrench wraps are color coded making it easy to pick the size you need out of a pile. Pricing is $1.25 each, but they also sell metric and SAE sets. Hit up This Link for more information over on MIP’s website.
Want more MIP news? Find it at This Link on BigSquidRC.