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What's new: Wednesday, March 26th, 2014

Tomato Sauce with his eyes on the prizeFor the humble beginnings of ‘The Path…’ see Part 1 and Part 2.

I’ve been buried into some multirotor building that I completely forgot I need to finish what I started here on Raging Rotors; either that or I was half expecting Doug to write it this week after last week (Props to Doug and his great scale/crawler work). As we come to the final phase of ‘The Path’ (which have alternate titles of ‘There and Back Again’ and ‘Evasive Maneuvers’), we need to discuss the most important part of becoming an amateur pilot, actually piloting! Now, I’ll break it down to helicopters and airplanes, as some of the maneuvers are not as necessary for one over the other. I would also like to give a shout out to Tony of HobbyTown Orland Park since most of this piloting advice (especially helicopter) is straight out of his manual.

When it comes to helicopter flight, the most difficult part of flight is when the controls are reversed due to the nose of the helicopter being faced towards yourself, known as ‘nose in.’ ‘Looking into the eyes of the beast’ can be a little intimidating; many a time I have freaked out flying nose in, even with my mini quadcopters. Here is a set of maneuvers you can do to practice flight, whether or not you choose to go nose in is up to you:

  • Full Circles clockwise(opt: using rudder (left stick) to keep nose in direction of flight path) and counter-clockwise (opt: using rudder to keep tail in direction of flight path)
  • Figure 8 forwards (opt: using rudder to keep nose in direction of flight path) and backwards (opt: using rudder to keep tail in direction of flight path)

For airplane flight, nose in is still a contributing factor but if you’re using a slow flying trainer plane, I’ve noticed getting accustomed to the viewpoint is easier, like controlling your RC Car (unlike helis, you can nose in your car and drive slow, and kill throttle of your plane and glide around). The major challenge with aircraft like RC Planes is accounting for depth (a plane can get away from you pretty quick) and wind (some planes need some assistance, especially out by me near the ‘Windy City’). Here’s one good flight hint: Take off in the wind. This will give you some help taking off, since the wind in combination with your propeller work will give you some extra lift.

These maneuvers with practice (on the field or on the simulator) will definitely hone your skills, but only attempt them after getting a handle for your aircraft.

The end of ‘The Path’ has been reached, but it is just a small piece of a bigger journey. I am honored to share my experiences and knowledge with you, and appreciate all the support to those of you who have contacted me or visited me on my ‘home turf‘. Between March Bash-ness  and the continuing improvement in weather, it will definitely be a good month! As always, until next time, Stay Shiny and Keep Flyin’!

Helion 10SCv2 Unboxing Pictures
About a month ago, the crew over at Helion RC announced a successor to their popular 10SC short course truck, the 10SCv2. The version 2 truck has a bunch of differences from the original, with the biggest change being the addition of a Radient Reaktor brushless power system. Street price is $289, making it quite affordable for a brushless 4wd short course truck.

Below are a bunch of unboxing pictures of the 10SCv2 so you can see what it looks like when you open one up. The first thing we noticed when we got the truck out of the box was its bright graphics, then we saw its new plastic chassis. The chassis isn’t a traditional “lcg”, it actually sits a bit higher for better ground clearance. We also noticed a nifty clear plastic cover over the pinion/spur area that makes it easy to see the gears.

Our full review goes up next week, until then you can hit up This Link for more Helion news on BigSquidRC.

Hit the “Read More” button to view 2 more Helion 10SCv2 unboxing galleries.

RPM Extended Arms Traxxas Summit Revo
“When you speak, RPM listens.”, that’s a direct quote from RPM’s website. RPM had a bunch of requests for Extended Rear Arms for the Traxxas Summit/Revo/E-Revo so they made them for you, the hardcore bashers of the world. The new a-arms are molded out of RPM’s legendary plastic and were designed to keep on ticking even during extreme use.

#70432 Extended Left Rear A-arms – Black
#70435 Extended Left Rear A-arms – Blue
#70482 Extended Right Rear A-arms – Black
#70485 Extended Right Rear A-arms – Blue

The arms have a street price of $14 per set and they should hit hobby shops in early April. To get more information just give This Link a Click to head over to the RPM website.

You can never get enough RPM news, find more at This Link on BigSquidRC.

Axial Jeep C/R Edition SCX10
The folks over at Axial are on top of the crawling world now days. They got there by putting out capable, and great looking, trucks. Their latest truck is a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited C/R Edition. This SCX10 based truck is loaded with trick scale goodies like BFG tires, Rigid Industries light bars, Casey Currie’s CRC wheels, and multiple Poison Spyder licensed parts. The C/R edition looks trick right out of the box, and should be a solid performer out on the trail.

The part number for the C/R edition is #AX90035, it has a street price of $419, and they should start hitting hobby shops in late April. To get complete information simply hit up This Link.

To find more Axial news on BigSquidRC This Is The Link you want.

Bracket Round 1

[Update 3: Round 2 has started! CLICK HERE to head over and vote in round 2! ]

Four down, four more to get the boot. This is part 2 of Round 1. First up we have Losi’s tough-as-nails Ten-SCTE versus Pro-Line’s highly regarded first foray into a complete kit, the Pro-2. The second match-up pairs up the biggest dog on the block, Losi’s 5ive-T, against what is arguably Traxxas’ best model, and 2013′s March Bash-ness Champion, the Slash 4×4. The third poll has the first ever March Bash-ness Champion, the Savage Flux HP, going blow for blow with another Traxxas big-wig, the E-Maxx Brushless Edition. And the final pairing puts the truck that started the short course craze, the Traxxas Slash 2wd, against Traxxas’ Stampede 4×4.

This poll will run until 11:59 pm CDT, March 27th. Not much time to make your vote count, so get to clicking. If you’re on the front page, click the Read More button, otherwise, just scroll down to click to your heart’s content.


What's new: Tuesday, March 25th, 2014

HPI Garage Banner…There we go…Now that I have your undivided attention…

Yes you did read right! Our friends over at HPI Racing have opened a new sub-site called the HPI Garage. This site is built to help you keep track of the HPI cars you own as well as being a repository of information regarding parts, hop ups, and forum links related to your HPI vehicles.

By joining the Garage and signing up for a MyHPI account, you also get entered into quarterly contests automatically. Which brings me back to the Savage XL Octane. Anyone who signs up for an account by March 31st will be entered into this quarter’s drawing, the very first XL Octane off the line!! Don’t worry if you have no HPI vehicles, you can still sign up for an account too!

Still don’t believe me? Check out all the details of MyHPI and the contest via THIS LINK.

For more HPI news on BigSquidRC, click here.

Pro-Line Pre-Assembled Pro-Spec Shocks
What’s better than a new set of high-end Pro-Line Pro-Spec shocks? When they come already assembled to save you time, that’s what. Now you can get both front and rear Pro-Line Pro-Specs pre-assembled, just add some oil and they are ready to mount up to your short course truck.

The part number for the fronts is #6308-30, the rears are #6308-31, and they have a street price of $67 per pair. Get complete information at This Link over on Pro-Line’s website.

Have you read our Pro-Line Pro-2 short course truck review? If not, you can read it Right Here.


Click here to read Part 1 of this series or click here for Part 2.

The servo that comes with the RTR Axial SCX10 isn’t bad for a stock unit, but the combination of running aluminum steering links (you upgraded, right?!) coupled with bigger and heavier tires/wheels make a servo upgrade a high priority. The factory unit is also decidedly NOT waterproof, which can be a huge negative depending on where you want to run.

Like everything else in this series, my recommendations are made based on what I’ve used “in the field”. Without a doubt my personal favorite is the Hitec HS-5646WP Waterproof Servo (click here for full specs). It provides enough torque to easily turn 1.9 tires on the rocks (if you are sporting big 2.2′s you may want something more powerful) and with a street price of around $50 the price to performance ratio is very nice. And while the light blue case is sealed and ready for the drink, the relatively low price point makes it MUCH easier to dunk with reckless abandon. Even though I’ve never had one fail on me it’s still nice to know that if it did (hey, it happens when dealing with water and electronics) I wouldn’t be out a couple C-notes.

The servo comes with a thick plastic horn that works very well with some slight modification. The stock bolt mounting hole just needs to be drilled/reamed out slightly and it will fit snug. The plastic is hardy enough that I’ve never had a breakage or stripping issue in over 14 months of heavy use (with 3 of these servos).

axial scx10 with waterproof hitec servo

Ok, so lets talk battery placement. If you have a Trail Honcho you are fine (they come with the mount up front) but if you have the JK RTR you will need to relocate. The parts you need should be in your extra trees (they were for mine when I purchased one a year ago). Click here to check out an excellent guide on the procedure over at Axial’s site. Getting that battery up front will make a huge difference when climbing.

So yeah, at this point you should have a serious trail machine. When we drop Part 4 of this guide we’ll take a look at over/ under drive gears, what exactly they do, and if they are right for you.

Click Here for more Axial news on BigSquidRC.

Kyosho FAZER Ferrari FXX Evoluzione
Kyosho has a neat looking Ferrari FXX Evoluzione aimed at the bashing crowd. It comes completely built and ready to run, and even comes with waterproof electronics for the bashing crowd. A plastic tub chassis and solid camber rods keep things simple and durable, while a 2400kV Orion brushless motor makes sure it isn’t boring when you tag the throttle.

The part number for the Kyosho Ferrari is #30915B, it is priced at $305, and you can get more information by clicking This Link over on the Kyosho America website.

Get more Kyosho news at This Link on BigSquidRC. rebates
The folks over at Asiatees Hobbies have a lot of deals going on. Right now you can get a $3 store credit as a new customer, plus you can get up to $35 off on qualifying purchases until March 28th. Hit up This Link to get all the details over on the Asiatees Hobbies website.

Click Here for more Asiatees news on BigSquidRC.

AKA has a new gear bag called the Mule to get all your equipment to the track or bash spot in one trip. Made from durable nylon mesh and reinforced with plastic, the Mule can make it a whole lot easier to get all that stuff of yours around, and to do it in style.

* Size– 31″ x 14.5″ x 11″
* Max loaded weight- 65 lbs
* Telescoping handle
* Oversize wheels w/ bearings
* 1 main & 8 auxiliary compartments

The part number is #98301, it has a street price of $140, and they are available right now. You can get more information at This Link over on the official AKA website.

Click Right Here for more AKA news on BigSquidRC.

What's new: Monday, March 24th, 2014

Cubby Horizon AVCA number of times our good friend Hawaiian Chris has come out to help us do vehicle reviews. First off it’s always good to get another opinion on a review, and second, he is super well versed on “everything rc” making him a great asset to have around. HC has been core into 5th scale, core into nitro, core into oval, core into just plain everything that moves on 4 wheels that is remote controlled. But… nearly every time I hand the controller over to him he freaks out a little. Why? Because typically we test with a “lot of power” installed in the cars, and he just isn’t used to that. HC is used to the “norm”, what the guys down at the track run, what most of the guys on the forums say to use, ect, and well, we don’t operate that way around here. When possible, we put wayyyy too power much in and simply don’t use it all except for rare occasions (like making a big jump, long runs on pavement, etc).

HC isn’t alone though, it is very common for us to hand over controllers to long-time, hardcore rc’ers who start in which a lecture that goes something like this- “OMG, you guys are out of your minds, you can’t put that power down and all you are going to do is break parts!”. Yes certainly, an HPI Blitz on 6S can be hard to drive, and yes it can instantly break a lot of parts, but that totally depends on the driver. A driver used to “stupid power” will lightly, VERY lightly, feathers into the throttle, they never just tag it WFO like some stock class racer would, and when driven with care, even stupid power doesn’t have to break parts.

So where am I going with this… we run crazy power in some of our test vehicles for one reason only- it is fun. There is nothing like pulling 50 mph wheelies on a 6S MT4 G3, or double backflips with a 4S 2wd Slash, fast is exhilarating. And… if you’ve been a hobbyist for as long as we have, it’s good to really get the blood pumping once in a while. Double and… we sure as heck aren’t going to install a slow power system in a car just because that is the “norm”, or that’s what “everybody else is running”, we are going to install what we think is fun.

Which finally gets me to the moral of the story… if you are a consumer, you do not have to listen to what all the lifers on the forums tell you to install in your car, put in what you want and find out for yourself what works for you. If you work for Happy Flower rc car manufacturer, just because short course trucks is hot doesn’t mean you have to put out another one, put out what YOU are passionate about and what you would have fun driving. If you are in the rc media and think you have to give some POS car a 9 out of 10 score because you might lose some advertising, grow a set and give it an honest rating. Yes, you might lose one advertiser, but there are plenty of good companies out there that will respect you because of it, and they just might cut you bigger checks because of it.

A couple of quick BSRC notes here…

Hey, we’ve got uber new BSRC hoodies that will tell everyone you know what’s up in the rc world. Hit up the BSRC shop button at the top of page to check out all our swag.

Review this week- Pro-Line short course buggy conversion, look for it Thurs or Fri.

Vote for your favorite truck/buggy/car in our March Bashness contest. Your vote is actually legit and everything, not like other reader voted on things out there on the net. At the end of the brackets the winning vehicle is actually the one that our readers were the most zealous about, and at least one of you guys will win something really sweet.

That’s it for this week, support your local hobby shops and bash spots when ya can!

YOUR Cub Reporter

MIP Pucks Shiny Drive System Serpent Spyder SRX-2
For all you Serpent buggy owners, MIP has announced their Puck CVD System for the SRX-2. The Puck Shiny System comes with steel CVDs to handle mod power, plus the replaceable pucks will keep your outdrives & CV bones from wearing out so quickly. Oh ya, they look sharp and help with quicker acceleration too.

The part number is #14125, they are priced at $75, and This Link will take you over to MIP’s website for more information.

Click Right Here for more MIP news on BigSquidRC.