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Posts Tagged ‘ask cubby


Hey guys I check your site quite often for great reviews on new RC vehicles etc. I am in the market wanting to buy an electric 1/8th scale basher and when I saw the new Thunder Tiger E-MTA I fell in love. This is what I want to get. Do you guys know where I might possibly be able to get it as I am unable to find any dealers in the US that has this. I don’t mind purchasing over seas but I need to find a hobby shop or store that has this baby in stock and can ship it to me. I am emailing you guys because I believe you did a review on this truck. I tried contacting Thunder Tiger America and the guy on the phone said he has never heard of this truck and doesn’t know what I am talking about. I found that to be a bit funny buy oh well. Hopefully you guys can help. Thanks.

Sujal P

Cubby- Hey ya Sujal, thanks for the email.

So where is the Thunder Tiger E-MTA? I have no idea, and I’m with ya that I’d reallyyyyy like to see it hit the states. For you readers who might not have heard of it, it’s a new brushless monster truck from Thunder Tiger that comes with extra sic suspension.

We posted information from the European press release a few months ago on the E-MTA and since then we have asked the Thunder Tiger guys if it would ever make it to the states. So far the info says no, so Sujal, if you really want a E-MTA (which will instantly make you the coolest guy at any bash spot in America) you will have to buy it from over-seas. And yo sorry, I’ve got zero leads for ya on tracking one down. I can only suggest that Google is your friend. Good luck and shoot us pics when/if you get one in your hands. Till then, we’ll keep bugging the TT people about importing them stateside.

This next one is a big long for the front page, so I’ll get it started here.. but you’ll need to hit the ‘READ MORE’ button for the rest and the answer..

Can we give up on RC racing EVER going mainstream?

I was REALLY bored the other night and read some old Cub reports. A consistent theme of those reports were your ideas to get RC racing mainstream such as DC shoes or Red Bull sponsorship. It got me thinking and below are my 10 reasons (in no order) RC racing will not go mainstream:

1. Size. Racing small several thousand dollar 8 lb vehicles on tracks not much larger than a studio apt compared to multi-million dollar race efforts in full size vehicles on full size tracks. Same reason 1/8th racing is more popular than 1/24th.

2. Injury risk. It’s sad but true that anticipation of crashes is a top attraction at racing events. RC racing – one of the racers goes down due to trigger finger cramping (the nefarious relative of arm pump)?

3. Crazy factor. In most forms of racing people watch and say “Wow, what they do is crazy.” RC racing doesn’t have that.



Hey guys,

Thanks for the review on the Thunder Tiger MT4 G3. I picked one up about a month ago and love it. I did upgrade the servo to a spektrum s6030 and modded the chassis to hold the battery with velcro and eliminated the goofy over tray. It is a pretty tough truck and handles great. It is loads better than the emaxx 3906 i used to have. Thanks again

Jason M.

Cubby- Since Thunder Tiger has gone to exclusive distribution through GP they’ve seemed to have really gain some traction (well that and thousands upon thousands of people reading their reviews here on BigSquid). In the past Thunder Tiger was nearly impossible to find, and goodness help ya trying to find replacement or hop-up parts. Now days you can actually find some of their products in an “average” LHS, you can actually get your hands on replacement parts, and the cars/trucks they are putting out have worked very well for us.

You mention you popped in a Spektrum S6030 servo, that’s a good upgrade as the stock servo doesn’t have the torque needed to really slam around those huge front tires. And I’ll agree with ya the stock battery trays are a bit goofy, but ours worked fine. The only other mod I would really consider to be a “must do” for the Thunder Tiger would be to put 8k fluid in the center diff. Bone stock out of the box the front tires become pizza cutters way too easy, the 8k evens out the power putting more to the rears under hard acceleration.

If anyone missed our Thunder Tiger MT4 G3 review, you can catch it at that link.

Hi, I have a stampede vxl with rpm everything, and a blitz with the cc sct combo (v2 with 3800 4 pole), was contemplating selling both to get the savage flux, main terrain is skate parks, be good to get your thoughts?!

Alan K.

Cubby- Assuming your Pede is the 2wd version, going to the 4wd Savage Flux opens up a lot trick options while driving a skate park. The gyro effect is much greater on a 4wd, especially one with tires as big as the Savage, making it much easier to pull back and front flips. The 4wd of the Savage will also allow you to tilt from side to side in the air (by steering to the left or right in flight), making it easier to flat land transfers. Lastly, the 8 shocks and ultra long travel suspension on the Savage will make all those cement landings at a skate park much softer. To boil it down, you are going to have a blast with the Savage Flux, it’s another level of performance over what you have right now.

Keep reading.. there’s another…. READ MORE

Cubby Cubby- We have a winner in last nights “Win Cubbys ???” contest, it’s Kage from Durham, NH, and he just won my Speed Passion RS2 brushless stadium truck! Congrats Kage, I hope you really enjoy my truck, I already miss it, that thing RIPS hard! Also thanks to everyone for participating last night- BSRC is THE place to win!!!

hello! i am both excited and embarrassed to admit that i am now getting back into RC’s…about 20 years later! i used to drive a sweet old ‘frog’ and then got a RC10 back in the day…lost interest and now went out and got myself a new toy to play with, HPI savage flux 2350 -kid up the street selling for newfangled “nitro” truck? WHAT IS THAT…I’ll take it too!It was WAY fun, but now i want to upgrade and bash the heck out of it! I have since put in the “extension kit” and added larger wheels -big joes? – don’t know which, i just got the largest that would fit…i like the ride and handling now, lowered it too…but now with the added weight, length and bla bla…i lost a LOT of power/top speed and flips/wheelies and I want that power back. So, aside from the batteries (was running 5000mah 30C 2S (x2) what can i put in there to make it super-awesome-number-1-again? Which motor will give me most bang for buck and wheelies again/w ESC of course and what about gears? with the new power and larger heavier equip i’m sure i’ll need new ones of those too…any help will be awesome! I will make sure to add pics and a little video once i finish this “hop-up” as it is called…I’m too green at this hobby now, TOO GREEN!!!thank

Adam S

Cubby- Hey Adam, thanks for shoot’n us an email.

So you’ve got a Savage Flux 2350 with huge tires and a stretched chassis and it doesn’t seem as gnarly as it once did. Indeed, larger diameter tires are a lot harder to turn over, as well as gearing you through the roof. Add the extra weight of a stretched chassis and I can see where your old speed went.

How to fix your dilemma- a Castle Monster system on 6S.

So which Castle Monster? You’ll be wanting the Mamba Monster 2200kv system. The included speedo works fine on 6S, the 2200 kv motor has more grunt than your stocker, it also works fine on 6S, and the system as a whole has a ridiculous amount of backflipping/tire-shredding power.

And while you are ordering your new power system, be sure and pick up a new pinion gear. Between your big tires and going up to 6S, you’ll want to install the smallest pinion that you can. Keep in mind that even with the smallest pinion you can mesh up, your truck will still be uncontrollably fast. It will make you smile so hard your toes will hurt. :)

Enjoy, have a nice day, and I am looking forward to seeing a video of you landing a quadruple backflip off the roof of your house.

Hi Brian,

Great RC website!
I looked but couldnt find anything on nitro comparisons. Have you guys ever done one? I’m always wondering what’s the best nitro out there. More power to you guys!
Derrick C.
Sent from my iPad

Cubby- Hey Derrick, Brian (aka- Brain) shot me your email to post here on the front page for the entire world to read, so here it is. :)

Ya know… there was a day when most of the BSRC Bash Crew drove nitro, and not just us, but the majority of rc’ers did. Then came brushless and Lithium, and well, you already know what that did to the nitro market.

If you were to look around the ridiculously plush BSRC offices we have several nitros sitting around, the problem is, none of us want to drive them. We’d much rather push “start” on a couple battery chargers and have our trucks go balls out for 15 minutes than screw around for 45 minutes with a nitro engine to get it running correctly.

So the simple fact is- we’ve done zero nitro comparisons. And that’s not due to lack of trying, heck I hate nitro but realize there are still a lot of people out there that drive them and would appreciate some nitro love’n. I simply can’t get anyone around the office to even begin to do anything nitro related.

So… does that mean that nitro is that bad, or that brushless/Lipo is that good? Ask ten different people and you’ll get lots of different responses, but I feel it’s a combo of both. When nitro is good, it’s very, very good, when it’s bad it makes you want to beat the offending truck to death with a sledge hammer and drive to the manufactures corporate offices and start smashing heads into the wall. When brushless/Lipo is good, it’s fantastic, when it’s bad, at least it’s 100% dead and the issue can easy be tracked down to a couple of different things.

So… when will you start seeing more nitro on BSRC? I am all for it actually, but I’m not sure when we will start doing more of it here. Wrench cranks out the occasional nitro but for the rest of us, at least not until nitro ups its game with more consistent, reliable, and longer lasting products. I’ll talk to Wrench, and see if we can get him doing some more nitro articles.

That’s it for yet another week of ASK Cubby. I know you have questions and comments, just go ahead and send’em in, heck, they might even make the BSRC front page! Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter


Do you guys have team drivers? Because I would love to sport the name of BigSquidRC! I am 15 years old and race at the local track here in Washington. My classes of choice are pro short course 2wd and 4wd. Last year I finished 3rd in points in the 2wd and 4th in points in 4wd. I am planning on racing at the local tracks and a coupple of bigger events such as the northwest short course nationals. It would be great to sport the name!!!
Nick V.

Cubby- Hey ya Nick, thanks for the email.

We’ve been getting a couple of “sponsorship request” emails a week lately, so I’m posting one for all to see. BSRC is a site about bashing, not about the much smaller racing scene, so as such, we don’t “sponsor” racers. Although, Nicks email got me to thinking…

So what if BSRC decided to start sponsoring bashers? Like way-super-dope-uber-bashers? I mean like the guys that huck it off 5 stories buildings for lunch, and 10 story buildings for supper? We hook up our “factory bashers” with trucks/stickers/etc and they make the mainstream news because they hucked a Savage over the Luxor? Lets say bashers look’n to make the squad submit us videos of their biggest jumps etc?

I think I’m on to something here… Nick, ever jumped over a school before? Ever hit a low flying full scale plane? Ever get your truck stuck in the top of a tree? If so, let us know, we might be able to hook ya up.

Hello nice build review.

I have one question in the Article you said “But, if you race on a small track, or one with lots of tight 180′s, the SC10 will be turning under you. There are two reasons the Blitz can’t/won’t cut the tightest corners- 1. it’s limited in steering travel, and 2. the Ackerman isn’t optimal for tight corners. You can fix #1 fairly easily by removing some material on the steering blocks for more throw, we did this mod and have a couple pictures to show you what material to remove.”

I did not see the pictures of this mod in the article could you please send a link to these pics or email me the pics? I am very interested in this mod.
Thanks so much..

Cubby- Yo thanks for the email Dan. Hope you are dig’n your Blitz as much as we dig ours.

The pics referred to were included in the article. They are THIS ONE and THIS ONE. And yes I must admit I was the one who shot those pics, definitely not the best, but I’ve been working on get’n my photo skills up past “blind man during an epileptic seizure”.

The first pic (ese15.jpg) shows the stock part on bottom and the part with material removed at the top. The second pic (ese16.jpg) shows an unmodified c-hub on top and after modification on the bottom. In reality you really don’t need to see the pics, just turn your Blitz to full travel and see where it is hitting at, then remove a small amount of material to allow a greater range of motion.

Since posting the Blitz ESE review we’ve learned a lot about more about the truck. The Blitz is right there with the Traxxas Slash as the “always ready to grab and go” truck sitting around the office. I dare say we’ve put more miles on our test Blitz than any other truck in the office the last 12 months. With all that trigger time we’ve learned a lot about how to give it more steering, so…

Right now our favorite steering mods are-
1. Use the included in-line steering blocks instead of the stock trailing blocks. Instantly gives more aggressive steering.

2. Remove material for greater range of motion, this aids in a tighter turning radius.

3. Sometime we run the ballstuds in the front of the steering rack instead of the stock location at the rear. I recommend this only for very high bite surfaces. The rear of the truck will become crazy loose if you aren’t running on a high traction surface with this set-up. Sometimes when we run this set-up we run all the foam battery blocks to the front of the battery tray, sometimes one in the rear, two in the front.

4. Use tires that provide more side-bite up front, and tires with less side-bite in the rear. This gets the front to plant better in corners while allowing the rear to rotate.

Try all those out one at a time, then in combinations to see what steering set-up works best for you and your driving style.

Peace and love, peace and love…


Guys I am going to be honest and state up front that I’m an rc noobie. The one thing I’m having the biggest problem with right now is how to solder, what do you think is the best way to learn?


Cubby- Thanks for taking the time to shoot us an email Bradley.

What’s the best way to learn how to solder? First I’ll tell you how I learned- I grabbed a soldering iron, some solder, and two pieces of wire and just played with’em for a few hours. I would solder’em one way, then another, with a a good solid yank determining if the work I had done was good or bad.

I’ll admit that being self taught was not the “best” method, so with that in mind this is what I recommend for you- to seek out advice (in person) from someone at your LHS or track. Any decent hobby shop employee will take the 10 minutes to show you how to solder, and the same can be said for any decent racer at your local track. If you have neither close to you, there are a million videos on-line that you can watch to get an idea, although being able to ask questions first hand is highly preferred.

The biggest single problem I see at the track with solder noobs is they are trying to use a $5 soldering iron that just doesn’t have enough oomff to get the job done. So if I was going to give you a couple quick pointers-

1. Cut the check for a decent soldering iron. It’s hard to put a dollar value on cursing, but trust me on this one, spend a bit more up front on a iron with adequate output to save yourself from hours of swearing in the future.

2. Use good solder. I use Novak Lead Free Silver Rosin Core, so do a lot of racer types. Don’t use the stuff that’s as thick as your thumb from the hardware store.

That’s it for this week ya bunch of crazed rc lunatics. Submit your questions, death threats, and unopened bottles of Glenlivet to- Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter


While digging around my closet I came across an old Losi Mini-T. The battery in it was a ni-mh, and I couldn’t get it to take a charge. I have a small 11.1 volt 3S li-po I can use, will it work in my Mini-T?
Gary K.

Cubby- What’s up Gary, and thanx for the email.

Can you use a 3S Lipo in a Mini-T? Yes and no. If your Mini-T still has the stock electronics in it, No you can’t. If you try it you’ll blow the stock speedo as it was never intended to operate on that high of voltage (nor was it designed with a Lipo battery low voltage cut-off).

And Yes you can run a 3S pack in your Mini-T IF you install an after-market speedo and motor (this is assuming your 3S Lipo is up to the task). I’d recommend the Castle Sidewinder Micro with a 5400 kv motor. The wheelies you’ll be pop’n with this set-up will leave you smiling for hours. FYI, keep tire glue handy, you are gonna need it.

I have an E-max and have always wondered why it has two motors? Do you have any upcoming E-max articles in the works? I emailed you a question before and it never got posted. Walter

Cubby- So why does your E-Maxx have two motors? Because it looks twice as cool that way! Because it was designed in America where more is always better!

Ok… to get serious here- back when the E-Maxx was first released brushless systems and Lithium based batteries were rarely used in rc’s. So… to move all that mass with brushed and Ni-mh, Traxxas decided to tackle the problem by wiring two 6 cell (or 7 cell) Ni-mh packs in series and to run two motors. The batteries were wired in series to raise voltage in an attempt to keep current draw to a minimum, and the dual motors were used in an attempt for more torque and to keep heat down. As you’ve seen with your truck, it typically works pretty dern well, but it’s nowhere in the same league as a single BL/Li-po system.

Do we have any E-Maxx related articles in the works? Yes! We are converting an old E-Maxx into something new and bash-worthy, it should be finished up in a few weeks.

Lastly, I didn’t post one of your previous questions? Really? We get 30 questions a week here, and I typically answer 2. You do the math… but at least now you can sleep at night knowing you made the BSRC front page.

And with that, I must bring this weeks ASK Cubby column to a close. Send us your questions, rants and what not to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter


First off, one I stole from Brian’s mail bag……

Hey Brian,

First, after a 10+ year hiatus from the hobby I’ve finally returned and your website provides me a wealth of knowledge since a LOT has changed since then so I tip my hat off to the Big Squid Crew.

Speaking of changes, I have never seen such aggressive marketing in the RC world than what Traxxas is doing nowadays. All those sponsorships and mainstream racing events are making the public take notice. Here’s an example:

I have a co-worker who is a die-hard motocross fan and he just attended the motocross race up here in Oakland. We were talking this past week and I brought up the subject of how I’m back in the hobby. I even showed him pictures of my Revo 3.3, which he has no idea what it is but he was very impressed. He was asking me a bunch of questions like “how fast does it go?”, “is it easy to work on?” etc, etc. Then he says, “have you heard of Trakis?” (mispronounced) I said, “oh, you mean Traxxas?” He said yeah and continued to tell me about the demo Traxxas did at the race. He was telling me of how they had these rc monster trucks with really small bodies (I’m guessing E-Revo’s or mini E-Revo’s) do backflips off the jumps. So we went to the Traxxas website on my computer where I was telling him about the different vehicles and about the Revo I hopped up. He got really excited and was amazed about the speed and performance of the vehicles. He said he wants to buy one now but he doesn’t know if his wife will let him. LOL So I guess that’s sort of a victory for Traxxas marketing, either way, it’s working…..


Cubby- Cool email, and thanks for writing in Joe. And yes, our hobby is very fortunate right now, lets hope that Traxxas and the other companies pump’n the big bucks into marketing to the masses see a large enough return to continue doing so.

For those of you that have never been to an AMA/FIM/Monster Energy/Traxxas Supercross, support your hobby and give one a shot. Nine races remain on the 2011 schedule- Daytona, Indy, Jacksonville FL, Toronto, Dallas, St Louis, Seattle, Salt Lake City, and Vegas. Traxxas sends a crew to every event to support a booth in the pits and to put on a small driving display. So if you hit a Supercross, drop by the Traxxas booth, they’ll be stoked to see some friendly rc faces.

Thanks so much for your help, I would be eternally grateful if you would help me with one other matter. I’m thinking of getting into Nitro trucks but don’t have a huge budget to blow, found this site called selling Exceed Nitro trucks at a great price. As they are an American company and I live in Europe I thought you might have a scope on them, are they bona fide and if so what are the trucks like???

Any Intel on the matter would be greatly appreciated

Cubby- Buongiorno Jud, and thanks for the email. Are you as anxious to see the 2011 F150 race at Melbourne as I am? Surely Alonzo can land the WDC this year….

So how is the quality of the trucks from Honestly, nobody at the BigSquid offices has driven one of their Exceed trucks, and they haven’t sent us one for testing… but… I have seen them in “action”. Well, I don’t know if I can honestly say I truly saw them in action, as they didn’t tend to run for very long. Based on what little I’ve seen of them in the field, I’d put them right around Redcat territory. To boil it down, at this point, until we get the opportunity to test one and prove me otherwise, I’d have to recommend that you pass on the Exceed trucks.

I’ll also recommend that you if you are gonna go nitro, don’t buy used. Too many used nitro trucks labeled as “barely broken in”, or “only 1 gallon on the engine” are anything but that. As a noob nitro buyer it’s hard to tell if a used engine has been abused- such as run without an air filter, run too lean, etc. Abused or worn out nitro engines will only make you curse, and then curse some more, then curse until you smash the entire truck with a sledgehammer. So buy new, buy from an established brand, and carefully follow the break-in procedure.

Hey, that’s it for this week folks. Shoot us an email, you know ya want to! Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com is the addy, so let’er rip. Whatever is kick’n inside those minds of yours is good for us. Supercross, Formula 1, nerd questions, hell, even rc questions, I don’t care, just send’em in!

YOUR Cub Reporter