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Posts Tagged ‘charger

Dynamite Prophet Sport Duo
The new Prophet Sport Duo from Dynamite is an affordable two channel battery charger. The latest in the Prophet series of chargers can charge at up to 6 amps (50 watts) on each of its channels and has a maximum cell count of 6S.

* Rugged and compact design
* Includes banana to EC3 adapters
* Adjustable current 0.1A-6.0A
* 5 year warranty
* JST-XH balance connector
* AlphaNumeric display
* AC only input power

The part number for the Dynamite Prophet Sport Duo is #DYNC2020 and it has a street price of $99.

Hit up This Link for more Dynamite news on BigSquidRC.

Prophet-Charger-Reaction-Lipo-Dynamite-GIF2

There comes a point in every new hobbyists life when they make the switch from Ni-MH batteries over to Lithium Polymers. It’s an obvious progression, LiPos typically yield more performance for the buck.

The crew over at Horizon Hobby have a couple of affordable products for those looking to make the LiPo switch. Horizon offers a Dynamite Prophet Sport LiPo charger and a Dynamite Reaction 2S 7.4V 30C 5000mAh LiPo battery. We’ve been testing the two for over a month now, today we’ll be sharing what we found out.

The Prophet Sport Lipo charger (part number #DYNC2005) is an AC only charger with a maximum charge rate of 3 amps. It is very affordable with a street price of just $29 and works on 2 and 3S LiPo packs. It doesn’t do Ni-MH or any other chemistry, but we found it did a nice job charging Lithium Polymers. The Prophet was exceptionally easy to use, just press the button to set the charge rate, then hold the button to start the charge. The Prophet does all its charging through the balance leads, which worked well for us, but wished it came with a longer AC cord.

On the battery side of things, the Reaction 2S 30C 5000 (part number #DYN9005EC w/EC3 connector) comes in at a $49 price point. We primarily used it in our review Vaterra Hälix and in an ECX Torment, and found that it powered both quite well. It had plenty of power on tap and never got too hot or puffed. We normally charged it on the Prophet Sport Lipo, but because it is capable of a 3C (15 amp) charge rate we used a Hyperion 720 on it a few times when we were in a big hurry. We found no ill effects from the fast charging and consider it to be a solid pack.

Overall- We found the two Dynamite items to make a great set. They worked well together and would be a good way to make the switch over to LiPo. We also liked their warranties, 1 year on the Reaction pack and 5 years on the Prophet charger. If you are in need of some new LiPo gear we can recommend both of these products to you.

Click Here for more Dynamite RC news on BigSquidRC.

Team Orion Advantage Touch Duo Charger
The Team Orion Advantage Touch Duo is the first touch screen two channel charger that you can buy. It is also AC/DC, so you can use wall power at your house or charge off your car battery while at the local bash spot. Some of its other features and specifications include-

* Max charge rate 10 amps per channel
* 4″ color touch screen
* Comes with charger stand for better view angle
* Internal 200 watt power supply
* Charges Li-Po, Li-Fe, Li-Ion, Ni-MH, Ni-Cd, & PB batteries
* Max cell count 6S Lipo on each channel
* Universal balancing boards included

The part number for the Orion Advantage Touch Duo is #ORI30237 and it has a street price of $249.

Click Here for more Orion news on BigSquidRC.

Duratrax Li-24 2S-4S Balancing Charger
So you’ve just jumped into Lipo batteries but don’t want to break the bank on a dedicated charger. Duratrax has you covered with their new Li-24 2S-4S Balancing Charger. Like the name states you can charge 2, 3, or 4S packs with the Li-24 and it has a maximum charge rate of 3 amps. Some of its other features and specifications include-

* Built in power supply for AC use
* CC/CV charging
* Comes with Deans Ultra Plug connector
* Charge status LED
* Balancing status for each cell
* LiPo/LiFe switch
* Balance Current: 200mA
* Dimensions: 4.4 x 2.7 x 1.6 inch

The Duratrax Li-24 has a part number of #DTXP4620, a street price of only $25, and you should expect to start seeing them hit hobby shops in late November.

Click Here for more Duratrax news on BigSquidRC.

THE Traxxas EZ-Peak 4 Amp Charger Review

Traxxas EZ-Peak 4 amp nimh review
This week we are taking a closer look at the Traxxas EZ-Peak 4 amp AC NiMH Charger. The EZ-Peak is aimed right at normal bashers who use NiMH packs but are looking for a good, fast charge. Is it any good? Let’s find out…

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THE Traxxas EZ-Peak NiMH/NiCd 5 Amp AC/DC Charger Review

Traxxas EZ-Peak NiMH/NiCd 5 Amp AC/DC Charger Review

So you just bought a new RTR and it came with a battery and a wall charger. Wall chargers are notoriously slow and you would much rather be out driving than waiting around for the battery to charge. To get you back on track quicker Traxxas has a new charger called the EZ-Peak 5 Amp. How well does it work? Is it worth the cash? Hit the “Read More” button to find out…

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Hitec X1-200 Touch Screen Battery Charger
Hitec has just announced their latest touch screen charger, the X1-200. The X1-200 is a 200 watt DC only battery charger that comes with a large 3.2″ LCD touch screen. Some of the other key features include-

* Up to 12 amp charge rate
* Includes universal balancing board
* Charges NiCd, NiMH, LiFe, LiPo, Lead Acid and Li-Ion

Hitec X1-200 Touch Battery ChargerThe part number for the X1-200 is #44209 while it has a street price of $119. For more information hit THIS LINK to head over to the Hitec website.

Looking for more Hitec news? Check out THIS LINK right here on BigSquidRC.

Cubby

Hoping you guys can keep me from going insane! I bought a used Castle esc with a 4 pole motor yesterday. I tested it shortly inside last night and it worked. Today I turn it on, and the esc don’t beep, and I have no throttle. Only a red light on the esc. Does not change with throttle. I triple checked my connections, and switched channels on my receiver to make sure both channels worked. Im soo frustrated. I have a fully charged lipo, I also tested with a fully charged nimh. What could be my problem? :(
Jason K

Cubby- Hey ya Jason, thanks for your question via our Facebook page, shoot me or Brian an email and we’ll totally hook ya up with a BSRC sticker pack. So…. you bought a used Castle system, it worked when you got it, now it doesn’t do a dern thing. From the information you’ve provided it sounds like the speedo isn’t seeing your receiver. Make sure your receiver is bound to your transmitter and all the settings on your transmitter are in accordance with what Castle recommends. Still doesn’t work? Try it with another transmitter/receiver that you know are working properly. Still doesn’t work after that? Give the guys at Castle a call or shoot’em an email, they are known for having some of the best customer service in the biz. Shoot us an email with when you get it figured out, heck send us some pics too. We always dig seeing what kind of rigs you guys are running.


Dead Battery
I need some help! I have a Zippy lipo that all of sudden doesn’t charge when I plug it into my charger. It’s like the charger can’t see that it is there at all. I store the pack just like all my others at 3.8 volts per cell and I have only used it a couple dozen times, probably less. I am baffled, please help.

Jonathan E.

Cubby- Yo hey Jon, thanks for the email and shoot us your snail mail so Brian can send ya out a big ole’ sticker pack.
So… you have a battery that isn’t showing up on your charger and you don’t know what to do. You are so lucky I’m here to save the day.
Step 1- There are only two options here, either the battery is bad or your charger is. The first step is to determine which one is the guilty party. Thankfully this is super easy to find out, grab a different pack and see if it charges. If it does
charge than it’s safe to assume your charger is fine. If it doesn’t charge the second pack try one more different pack. If it still isn’t charging then it’s time for a new charger. Problem solved hurray.

Step 2- Let’s say that your charger isn’t seeing your Zippy but it charged another pack successfully. For step 2 you’ll need a volt meter. If you are a hobbyist you need one of these, heck, you need one for life in general. If you don’t have one they are cheap and easy to buy at your local Wally World, automotive store, or Rad Shack. Volt meters run from $5
to over $500. For hobby use a $20 unit will work just fine, just make sure it reads DC up to 20 volts.

Step 3- Use your volt meter to see if there is any voltage at the Zippy’s battery connector. If there is voltage perhaps the connector is no longer making a good connection, solder on a new one and try charging again. If you aren’t seeing proper voltage at the connector, try reading the voltage at the wires right before the connector. If the voltage is good before the connector once again solder up a new connector and try charging.

Step 4- If there is still no voltage (or very low voltage) at the battery wires most likely the pack has gone bad. Typically it’s just one cell that gives up the ghost, and it’s not uncommon for Lipo packs to go bad, even when not in use. Using your handy dandy volt meter you can each cells voltage at the balance connector to see if one cell has indeed died.

Step 5- Should your pack be bad take it to your nearest recycling center. A quick Google search should yield your nearest location. Places like Best Buy, Rad Shack, and even some LHS’s are often recycling centers.

Step 6- If your pack was indeed bad you’ve now got a perfect excuse to buy a new one. Check out our Lipo shootouts and reviews for help selecting the perfect pack for your application.

Step 7- Thank me for the great answer by shipping one bottle of 2002′ Warhol Dom to the uber plush BSRC offices.
Step 8- You’re welcome.


That’s it for this week ya bunch of loons, shoot me what’s going in that head of yours to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your email makes the big time you’ll get a free sticker pack, if yours is proclaimed as “letter of the month” you’ll win a free BSRC t-shirt. Oh ya, I’m picking a “letter of the month” next week, so get those emails in!
YOUR Cub Reporter

THE Radient Origin AC/DC Battery Charger Review

Radient Origin Battery Charger Review

Every day more and more people make the jump into the wonderful world of hobby grade rc’s. Most of these people end up walking out the hobby shop door with a RTR and low-end Ni-MH battery. New people to the hobby don’t really need some high-zoot uber charger, they need a charger that is easy to use with enough power to get the job done. Today we are taking a closer look at such a charger, the Radient Origin. Is the Origin easy for a noob to use? Can it stand up to the day-to-day beating of a basher? Most importantly, is it worth the cash? Read on and find out…

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Cubby

Hello BSRC!

Got a Helion Dominus 10TR question? Picked mine up at Hobbytown and the tech guy said a slipper clutch would be good idea. So got home out slipper clutch in and have a binding noise coming from the diff area ever since.Took it back to hobbytown they took it apart and couldnt find problem..The slipper install was a nightmare in general…but i love the thing it jumps like a beast….But i cant run it with that noise drives me nuts…….HELP PLEASE!

Chris R.

Cubby- Hey ya Chris and thanks for the question via our Facebook page. Hit Brian up for some free stickers, tell him I sent ya and to too hook ya up.

This is one of those problems that is quick to track down in person, but difficult to do via the Internet. But if I had your truggy in my hand right now…

Here are my upfront guesses for where your noise is coming from- 1. from your new slipper/spur rubbing on something, 2. motor pinion/spur mesh (a slightly chewed up spur), or 3. you have a diff going bad.

First step is simply listening, listening to see if you can hear the actual area the noise is coming from. Sometimes this can be deceiving, but take the body off, put your truggy on a work-stand with the wheels off the table, then lightly hit the throttle and take a close listen. Hopefully this will give you a specific area that the noise is coming from, if you still can’t tell where it’s coming from…

Because this noise started after your slipper install I’d take a close look at the slipper/spur and see if it is rubbing anywhere. Look for scuff marks on the slipper itself. Also, look for small bumps or excessive wear on the teeth of the spur where it mates with the motor pinion. You would be amazed how much noise a slightly chewed up spur gear can make. A small bit of dirt (or small chunk of plastic) in the teeth of the spur can make one heck of a racket as well.

If you don’t see any scuff marks on the slipper and the spur looks good I would then loosen up the motor pinion/truck spur gear mesh, make sure the two gears are no longer touching. Lightly hit the throttle again and listen. Most likely you’ll hear no noise, as just the motor and pinion are spinning. Hear no noise from just the motor? Then we go to the next step->

Next, spin the spur with your finger and listen. Btw- the spur should spin quite freely without resistance. Is the sound still there? If it is- it might be the rear diff (or ring/pinion bevel gear inside the diff case). If you spin the spur and there is no noise, then the noise is being made when the motor pinion and spur gear are mated together.

If you are still hearing the noise when spinning the spur I would remove the rear driveshafts from the rear differential out-drives. I would then spin the spur again and see if the noise is still there. If the noise is, then you’ve narrowed it down to something inside the diff case. If the sound is gone, then it has to do with the wheels or driveshafts.

I could go on with the process here, but really it is a matter of taking some time and doing a process of elimination. This is a hobby, by owning a truck you are volunteering a certain amount of time to taking care of it. Tracking down a mystery noise is just part of the “fun” of getting to know your truck better and making sure it is in tip-top working condition. Good luck and be sure to shoot us an email telling us what it turned out to be.


I liked the review of the passport duo charger… I have a couple questions… After reading the article (which was nicely done) I wanted to ask you… can you charge any lipo 2cell battery at the 10.0 amp charge rate… if so, what benefits are there to charging at the factory default rate of 2.0. Also, I see you mentioned that charging at the balanced setting could take forever… I was told to always charge at balanced…. are you saying that you only charge at balanced to get the 2 cells back inline and while at the track you use fast charge all the time?

I purchased this charger off your review of it (thanks for the help) I was going to purchase the new Trax power charger with the matching power supply that plugs into it.. I choose this because it was one unit and Big Squid gave a very positive review. I just want to make sure i understand this a little better because i am newer to the sport and wanted to make sure I could charge at a faster rate.

Please let me know if you understand the questions i am asking…

Thank you again and I’m a big fan of Big Squid!!!

Paul P.

Cubby- What’s up Pauly, and thanks for the email. Shoot Brian your snail mail for to get your new T-shirt! Yes! I proclaim yours as “letter of the month”.

To get right down to business here…

Can you charge any 2S Lipo at a 10 amp charge rate? Absolutely not. 2S (7.4v) Lipo batteries come in many different capacities, ie- 1200 mah, 5000 mah, 5400 mah, etc. The capacity of the Lipo, along with its cell design, are used to determine its charge rate. With hobby grade rc Lipo batteries, a relative “safe” charge rate is 1C (just over a 1 hour charge time)- equating to a 1.2 amp charge rate for a 1200 mah pack, a 5 amp rate for a 5000 mah, and a 5.4 amp rate for a 5400. In the last few years the cell designers have changed the internals to be more friendly (read- tolerant) to higher charge rates, today we see Lipo’s with “recommended” charge rates as high as 10C (just over a 6 minute charge time). A 10C charge rate would be 12 amps for a 1200 mah pack, 50 amps for a 5000 mah pack, and 54 amps for a 5400.

At what amp rate should you charge your Lipo? This is typically listed on the pack itself. If you don’t see it printed on the battery hit up the manufactures website, and if you can’t find it there, give them a call. It is important to charge a Lipo battery at the correct rate, don’t charge a pack without knowing it.

Btw, to properly charge a Lipo pack requires two correct settings- 1. the cell count, such as 2S (7.4v) or 3S (11.1), in addition to 2. the amp rate.

Should you balance charge every time? That depends. For example- we have packs around the office that have nearly identical voltage for each individual cell even after dozens of cycles. There is no need to balance a pack that isn’t out of balance.

On the flip side- we’ve got a few packs around here that tend to go out of balance. When we charge those packs we balance them every time. Here’s why- if you quick charge an unbalanced pack one cell will be overcharged (a potentially dangerous condition) while the other cell will be undercharged.

About the Passport balancing slowly- if a pack is minimally out of balance (lets say .02 volt difference between cells) it won’t take that much longer than a “quick” charge, but if it is significantly out of balance (greater than .05) it can take a while. The Passport very slowly discharges the cell (or cells) with higher voltage down to the voltage of the lowest cell to balance them.

Do we fast charge at the track all the time? Yes and no. Yes- if it’s a pack that is nearly balanced and tends to stay that way. And no- if the cells in a pack are significantly out of balance, then we do take the extra time to balance charge.

Should you always balance charge? Sure, if you have the time and/or your batteries need it. But… if you want to save time and your cells stay well balanced, then go for the quick charge.

How much of a difference in cell voltage should necessitate balance charging? Different people will give you different answers on this one, but I balance charge when the difference is .03 volt or more. For instance… if you have a 2S Lipo pack and one cell reads 3.50 volts and the other reads 3.53 volts I would recommend a balance charge. If you have a 3S Lipo and the first cell reads 3.50, the second 3.51, and the third 3.49, I would go with a quick charge if you are looking to save some time.


That’s it for this week gang, shoot me your questions, issues, suggestions, rants, and chest beatings to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. Each letter that hits the big time gets free stickers, and if you are cool like Pauly and get “letter of the month” you get a new uber T-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

THE Dynamite Passport UltraLite 50 Watt AC/DC Battery Charger & Multi-Tool Review
Dynamite Passport Ultralite 50 watt charger review

The guys designing battery chargers now days aren’t just putting out the same old cookie cutter designs that they used to. A good example of this is the new Dynamite Passport UltraLite 50 Watt AC/DC charger. The UltraLite not only has a unique look, but is loaded to the hilt with features. Is it a battery charger worth putting in your garage? Let’s find out…

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The Duratrax Onyx 150 LiPo Charger Review

We get a lot of emails asking about chargers. We normally tell people to check our our Charger Shootout to at least get them started for some ideas on what to look for in a new charger. Some people are on a serious budget, or are just new to the hobby and want to keep the costs low while keeping it simple, and that’s where the new Duratrax Onyx 150 comes in. Is this the ultimate entry level lipo charger? Keep reading…

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THE Dynamite Passport Ultra Duo 200 watts x 2 Balancing Battery Charger Review

At BigSquidRC we are all about going balls out with everything we do, and that even extends to charging batteries. We hate waiting for batteries to charge, so we charge at the fastest safe rate that we can. Certain members of our staff also hate lugging around a separate power supply and only use AC chargers. Horizon Hobby has a new uber charger out, the Dynamite Passport Ultra Duo that is made for people like us. The Passport Ultra Duo is a dual port charger than can put out up to 10 amps x 2, even when plugged into a normal AC power outlet. Is the new Passport Ultra Duo one of the most elite chargers on the market, or does it fall short? Read on…

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