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Posts Tagged ‘dominus 10sc


Hello BSRC!

Got a Helion Dominus 10TR question? Picked mine up at Hobbytown and the tech guy said a slipper clutch would be good idea. So got home out slipper clutch in and have a binding noise coming from the diff area ever since.Took it back to hobbytown they took it apart and couldnt find problem..The slipper install was a nightmare in general…but i love the thing it jumps like a beast….But i cant run it with that noise drives me nuts…….HELP PLEASE!

Chris R.

Cubby- Hey ya Chris and thanks for the question via our Facebook page. Hit Brian up for some free stickers, tell him I sent ya and to too hook ya up.

This is one of those problems that is quick to track down in person, but difficult to do via the Internet. But if I had your truggy in my hand right now…

Here are my upfront guesses for where your noise is coming from- 1. from your new slipper/spur rubbing on something, 2. motor pinion/spur mesh (a slightly chewed up spur), or 3. you have a diff going bad.

First step is simply listening, listening to see if you can hear the actual area the noise is coming from. Sometimes this can be deceiving, but take the body off, put your truggy on a work-stand with the wheels off the table, then lightly hit the throttle and take a close listen. Hopefully this will give you a specific area that the noise is coming from, if you still can’t tell where it’s coming from…

Because this noise started after your slipper install I’d take a close look at the slipper/spur and see if it is rubbing anywhere. Look for scuff marks on the slipper itself. Also, look for small bumps or excessive wear on the teeth of the spur where it mates with the motor pinion. You would be amazed how much noise a slightly chewed up spur gear can make. A small bit of dirt (or small chunk of plastic) in the teeth of the spur can make one heck of a racket as well.

If you don’t see any scuff marks on the slipper and the spur looks good I would then loosen up the motor pinion/truck spur gear mesh, make sure the two gears are no longer touching. Lightly hit the throttle again and listen. Most likely you’ll hear no noise, as just the motor and pinion are spinning. Hear no noise from just the motor? Then we go to the next step->

Next, spin the spur with your finger and listen. Btw- the spur should spin quite freely without resistance. Is the sound still there? If it is- it might be the rear diff (or ring/pinion bevel gear inside the diff case). If you spin the spur and there is no noise, then the noise is being made when the motor pinion and spur gear are mated together.

If you are still hearing the noise when spinning the spur I would remove the rear driveshafts from the rear differential out-drives. I would then spin the spur again and see if the noise is still there. If the noise is, then you’ve narrowed it down to something inside the diff case. If the sound is gone, then it has to do with the wheels or driveshafts.

I could go on with the process here, but really it is a matter of taking some time and doing a process of elimination. This is a hobby, by owning a truck you are volunteering a certain amount of time to taking care of it. Tracking down a mystery noise is just part of the “fun” of getting to know your truck better and making sure it is in tip-top working condition. Good luck and be sure to shoot us an email telling us what it turned out to be.

I liked the review of the passport duo charger… I have a couple questions… After reading the article (which was nicely done) I wanted to ask you… can you charge any lipo 2cell battery at the 10.0 amp charge rate… if so, what benefits are there to charging at the factory default rate of 2.0. Also, I see you mentioned that charging at the balanced setting could take forever… I was told to always charge at balanced…. are you saying that you only charge at balanced to get the 2 cells back inline and while at the track you use fast charge all the time?

I purchased this charger off your review of it (thanks for the help) I was going to purchase the new Trax power charger with the matching power supply that plugs into it.. I choose this because it was one unit and Big Squid gave a very positive review. I just want to make sure i understand this a little better because i am newer to the sport and wanted to make sure I could charge at a faster rate.

Please let me know if you understand the questions i am asking…

Thank you again and I’m a big fan of Big Squid!!!

Paul P.

Cubby- What’s up Pauly, and thanks for the email. Shoot Brian your snail mail for to get your new T-shirt! Yes! I proclaim yours as “letter of the month”.

To get right down to business here…

Can you charge any 2S Lipo at a 10 amp charge rate? Absolutely not. 2S (7.4v) Lipo batteries come in many different capacities, ie- 1200 mah, 5000 mah, 5400 mah, etc. The capacity of the Lipo, along with its cell design, are used to determine its charge rate. With hobby grade rc Lipo batteries, a relative “safe” charge rate is 1C (just over a 1 hour charge time)- equating to a 1.2 amp charge rate for a 1200 mah pack, a 5 amp rate for a 5000 mah, and a 5.4 amp rate for a 5400. In the last few years the cell designers have changed the internals to be more friendly (read- tolerant) to higher charge rates, today we see Lipo’s with “recommended” charge rates as high as 10C (just over a 6 minute charge time). A 10C charge rate would be 12 amps for a 1200 mah pack, 50 amps for a 5000 mah pack, and 54 amps for a 5400.

At what amp rate should you charge your Lipo? This is typically listed on the pack itself. If you don’t see it printed on the battery hit up the manufactures website, and if you can’t find it there, give them a call. It is important to charge a Lipo battery at the correct rate, don’t charge a pack without knowing it.

Btw, to properly charge a Lipo pack requires two correct settings- 1. the cell count, such as 2S (7.4v) or 3S (11.1), in addition to 2. the amp rate.

Should you balance charge every time? That depends. For example- we have packs around the office that have nearly identical voltage for each individual cell even after dozens of cycles. There is no need to balance a pack that isn’t out of balance.

On the flip side- we’ve got a few packs around here that tend to go out of balance. When we charge those packs we balance them every time. Here’s why- if you quick charge an unbalanced pack one cell will be overcharged (a potentially dangerous condition) while the other cell will be undercharged.

About the Passport balancing slowly- if a pack is minimally out of balance (lets say .02 volt difference between cells) it won’t take that much longer than a “quick” charge, but if it is significantly out of balance (greater than .05) it can take a while. The Passport very slowly discharges the cell (or cells) with higher voltage down to the voltage of the lowest cell to balance them.

Do we fast charge at the track all the time? Yes and no. Yes- if it’s a pack that is nearly balanced and tends to stay that way. And no- if the cells in a pack are significantly out of balance, then we do take the extra time to balance charge.

Should you always balance charge? Sure, if you have the time and/or your batteries need it. But… if you want to save time and your cells stay well balanced, then go for the quick charge.

How much of a difference in cell voltage should necessitate balance charging? Different people will give you different answers on this one, but I balance charge when the difference is .03 volt or more. For instance… if you have a 2S Lipo pack and one cell reads 3.50 volts and the other reads 3.53 volts I would recommend a balance charge. If you have a 3S Lipo and the first cell reads 3.50, the second 3.51, and the third 3.49, I would go with a quick charge if you are looking to save some time.

That’s it for this week gang, shoot me your questions, issues, suggestions, rants, and chest beatings to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. Each letter that hits the big time gets free stickers, and if you are cool like Pauly and get “letter of the month” you get a new uber T-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter


I absolutely love your site, the content is killer and the best part is what you say is honest and not watered down to protect any sponsors. With the winter quickly approaching I was wondering if you guys ever posted some how to articles, not tips and little things like you find in magazines but specifically a review of some of the track and rail systems on the market along with some how-to’s for anyone trying to save money and build their own. Indoor tracks seem crazy expensive and even then you aren’t really sure if they are worth their weight ya know?

Ever host a general contest like having people send in their detailed instructions for building a basement track layout and the winner gets some stickers or shirts or other swag? If not, do you know of anyone who has reviewed indoor track systems? I wanted to find something that is interchangeable, somewhat durable, and most of all not break the bank expensive so my kids and I can have a fun winter without becoming couch spuds. Oh yeah did I mention your website rocks? Best out there by far hands down. Keep up the excellent work and thanks!

Jason K.

Cubby- Hey Jason, you just hit the lotto. I official declare yours as email of the month. Shoot Brian your snail mail and he’ll send ya out some stickers and a brand new BigSquidRC t-shirt.

So you wanna build an indoor track to help pass the time this winter and you would like to know our thoughts on some of the current commercially available track systems. If you were looking to spend some cash (and have an available spare room
where you don’t have to tear everything down after driving) you could go buy something like an RCP track for the small scalers or ozite carpet and a RoadRail system for bigger vehicles. Both work fine for their respective uses no doubt.

However… what I am going to recommend is this- just use whatever you already have laying around the house. It won’t cost you any money, and should your better half request (read- demand) you pick up after every bash session everything you use will already have a place at your house. For example, throwing some old carpet pieces over shoes or pool noodles makes for some pretty gnarly whoop sections. A piece of carpet over an old cardboard box makes a good tabletop, and jumps are easily constructed out of cardboard or left over wood pieces. There are a million different ways to make obstacles, the more you make, the more you learn, and perhaps at some point in the future you’ll be using what you learned from first hand experience to make uber tracks for more than just yourself.

Hey Guys!
I wanted to share some pics of my Ten-SCTE. I’ll get some chassis shots of it after I get her all cleaned up. We had a great weekend bashing at a friend’s house out in rural Mississippi. They have a vacant lot next to theirs which has been converted into a small RC track. He and his son have a couple of Slashes while we have the SCTE, Slash, and Dominus SC10.

The Losi broke for the first time in the year I have had it. The wheel nut backed off and the mounting surface on the wheel rounded itself off. No biggie really. The Dominus on the other hand has been down quite a bit. We are having issues with rod ends. They are too soft and keep stripping out. I’m gonna try to replace them with Traxxas rod ends which are tougher to see if that does the trick. Hopefully the center diff will be out soon as we can swap that in.

My friend has a Slash 4×4 and after wheeling my Losi for a bit he really liked it much more than the Traxxas. After taking his Slash 4×4 for a ride I have to agree with him. The Losi is a far superior beast. Have you guys had good luck with the
Dominus so far?

Keep up the good work! I think you guys have a great website and am proud to know you guys!
Jon A.

Cubby- Good hearing from you again Jon, and thanx for the pics.

Nice to hear you’ve been having good luck with your Losi SCTE. Whether for bashing or racing, it is an exceptional vehicle. We’ve driven our SCTE’s like we stole them for over a year now with very little damage or breakage, they are beasts. Just FYI, we are in the process of reviewing all the RPM hop-up parts for the SCTE, making a tough truck even tougher, expect to see that review in perhaps another week or so.

If where you drive isn’t too grassy and doesn’t have too many large dirt clods I’d highly recommend you try the MIP Pro4mance package for the SCTE. Yes, stock the SCTE drives very well and the MIP kit isn’t cheap, but it transforms the truck to an epic level that I think you would really appreciate.

About the Traxxas Slash 4×4, I’d agree it is not on the Losi’s level… but it does excel in grass and on dirt with large clods. The additional ground clearance of the Slash can come in handy in those conditions, but the extra ride height works against it on smoother surfaces.

We’ve had good luck with our Helion Dominus review truck. Out of the box it’s quite slow, but we beat it fairly hard and didn’t experience many issues. Our review Dominus is still in service on a weekly basis, only now in hopped up form, and it still keeps putting a smile on our face. No, it’s not in the league of the Losi either, but for its price point it exhibits all sorts of win.

That’s it for this week ya bunch of mongrels, submit your questions, hate-mail, smack-talk, and any other jive you might have to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your email hits the front page you’ll get free stickers, if you pull off “letter of the month” like Jason did above you’ll get a free way-super-uber BSRC t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter


Hi Cubby,
I am pondering the question should I buy a new Traxxas Stampede or not. All I do is parking lot plus the dirt hills behind my house. Is there a better option? Help.
Jose L.

Cubby- Que pasa Jose? Thanks for shoot’n in an email.

Ya know… Traxxas has sold an awful lot of those Stampedes, and I can say from first hand experience that they are a good truck. However…. is there a better option out there? We get a lot of emails like this one, and that’s the exact reason we did our way-super-uber 2wd Monster Truck Shootout. We took the Stampede and put it head to head against its primary competition- the ECX Ruckus and the ARRMA Granite, just to see which one is the overall basher. We’ll be posting the results of our shootout on our front page Tuesday, September 4th. Hopefully our shootout will help you make an informed buying decision.

Hey Guys, I read your review of the Dominus being a noob I went an got one an have been bashing it since. I would like to upgrade the motor to a brushless, would you be willing to tell me which ones would fit? I know you’re busy but I figured the fastest and easiest thing to do would be to ask a pro!
Thanks for your time.
Luke D.

Cubby- Hey now Luke, be sure and shoot Brian your snail mail so we can send ya some free BigSquidRC stickers.

So…. what brushless motors fit the Helion Dominus 4wd SCT? Pretty much all 540 and 550 brushless motors will bolt up without issue (you’ll want a 550). I don’t know how much of a noob your are, but just fyi, the stock speedo isn’t designed to run a brushless motor, so you’ll need a brushless speedo to boot. Oh and, the stock battery that came with the Helion is less than optimal for use on a high powered brushless system, so you’ll want to look into better batteries as well. And really, really lastly… we did a hop-up article on how to install a brushless system in the Dominus, HERE is the link.

Cubby what difference does a 5000 mah 7.4v Lipo make to a 5000 mah 11.1v Lipo if they are both 35C?
Kevin W.

Cubby- Hey Kevin, thanks for taking the time to shoot me an email.

There is a big difference between a 2S 35C 5000 and a 3S 35C 5000.

Let’s say you have a brushless system capable of 400 watts in your truck. For it to put out its full 400 watts it has to draw more than that from your battery (because your speedo/wires/connectors are not 100% efficient), lets say it draws 500 watts.

Lipo cells under heavy load are going to dip down in voltage substantially, lets say down to 3.5 volts per cell for the purposes of demonstration here. Your 2S pack under heavy load might only put out 7 volts, the 3S pack only 10.5. For the 2S pack to provide the 500 watts your brushless system is asking for, your brushless system will need to draw over 71 amps from the 2S pack, on the 3S pack it only needs to draw 47 amps. To boil it down- a 3S pack is capable of a third more power delivery to your brushless system than a comparable 2S pack can, thus allowing your brushless system to put out more power.

If you aren’t looking for shear power output, a 3S Lipo can provide longer run-times than a 2S of equal capacity and “C” rating. The 3S pack carries a third more stored energy on board than a 2S pack. That third more energy can be used to provide greater power as shown above, or via gearing, it can be used for greater run-times. For example, if you gear your truck for 30 mph on a 2S 35C 5000, you might get 10 minutes of runtime. If you gear the exact same truck for the same 30 mph with a 3S 35C 5000 pack, you should get 15 minutes.

But like everything else in the world, 3S does have its downsides. A 3S pack costs a third more, has a third more weight, and cheap chargers might not be able to charge them at a reasonably fast rate.

That’s it for this week amigo’s, submit your questions, answers, and whatever else you have bouncing around in those minds of yours to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com! If your question makes the front page you get free stickers, if I proclaim yours as letter of the month you get a free t-shirt, so send’em in!

YOUR Cub Reporter


OK I think I’m about to jump on the 4×4 sct train….my? Is what is the best truck out there to get…..I’m looking for out of the box fast…tough plenty of upgrades….let me know what you think…thanks

Glenn B.

Cubby- Hey what’s up Glenn, thanks for the email, shoot us your snail mail so we can send ya some stickers.

You make it kinda tough to give you an answer as you give me very little input data to formulate an answer. So… I’ll just assume that you’ll be using a new SCT 4×4 exclusively for bashing, and that you don’t have a certain price point you are trying to stay under.

The Slash 4×4 has several things going for it.

1. Parts availability
2. It has good ground clearance making it better for driving in grass
3. It is plenty tough
4. It is plenty fast

The Slash 4×4 isn’t exactly cheap at just over $400, and it’s not the best for track use, but overall, it’s a great truck.

I can’t recommend the Helion Dominus here. The Dominus is a good truck at a great price point, but its stock power plant would need immediate replacement for it to be fast.

The Losi Ten SCTE RTR is plenty tough and better suited to the track, but has a price point of over $500, which might or might not be an issue for you.

So, to boil it down, the Slash 4×4 VXL is what I recommend for you.

This next one is a long one.. make sure to ‘read more’ to get the whole question and answer..

As always, I enjoying reading the cubby column, and as always, I say there should be “someone” writing a counter-punch column to his.

Sure, on-road is not at its best and I agree with statement that it is at an all time low…but that was the case probably two years ago. There’s been a small resurgence due to the popularity of Formula 1 (go talk to the Tamiya guys and ask them what’s been paying their bills this year…and they will tell you it’s F1). Locally, a shop holds a local/regional race on a quarterly basis, and it was suppose to be just a “Grand Club Race” at the world famous Tamiya facility test track turned out to be a 100+ racer event. Two of these races have gone by and the last turn out was over 150 entries. So I agree, on-road is not where it used to be (and when it was at its peak, it rivals the popularity we see with short course today) but it is steadily building a come back. Will it be main stream again? No, I don’t think so, because it will take something from Traxxas to make it popular again. However, the rest of the world (Asian, Europe, Some Australian) Touring Car is still the “it” class to run and most could care less about short course. It is some what shallow of American sometimes to think that what we got that’s popular is popular for the rest of the world (NFL vs. Soccer…woohoo…whole new can of worms)


Hey there, big fan of the Big Squid you guys do great work. I was curious if there was a plan in the works to do a hopped up review of the Dominus 10SC. Also was interested in the possibility of seeing how the Dominus and Losi Ten-SCTE stack up against each other in a short course shootout, or more simply which would you (As in the Squid crew) recommend for bashing primarily maybe racing against a bud. I would like to see a 4wd SC on the basher approved list if you of the mighty squid deem one fit.


Cubby- Yo what’s up Sam, good questions you have there. Oh, and shoot Brian your snail mail so we can shoot ya out some stickers.

No, we won’t be doing a review of the Dominus in hopped up mode, however, we have several more “Modding The Dominus” articles in the works. As you’ve probably noticed, all our hop-up articles on the Dominus have been geared towards noobs. You’d be amazed at how many peoples first truck in hobby grade rc is the Dominus, that’s why we gear the articles that way.

Dominus vs SCTE, which one wins? They are two different beasts. The Dominus has very soft power out of the box but once a decent brushless system is installed it’s a beast in a straight line. Both trucks have proven quite durable for us. The biggest difference in how they drive is the lack of a center diff in the Dominus. The lack of a center diff allows you to pull wheelies and it makes backflips easier to pull off, but it also makes the Dominus super sensitive to throttle input while jumping. So… the SCTE is much easier to jump (and to drive in general) but the Dominus can be more fun to bash if wheelies are your thing.

Which one would I recommend to you? The Losi Ten SCTE. It drives awesome, it’s easy to work on, and it’s quite durable. But if you were to go around the office you’d probably get 5 different answers from 5 different people.

About a BigSquidRC “Basher Approved” 4wd short course truck- we have had many a long discussion around the office about that very subject. The biggest thing holding the Dominus back is its battery tray, it’s a pain to fit after-market packs in it. I’ve lobbied to get the Losi Ten SCTE on the list, in my eyes it’s super durable, relatively affordable, and a blast to drive, but others in the office don’t have the same love for it that I do. Really, to get Basher Approved a product has to be Epically outstanding, and thus far we’ve yet to find a 4wd SCT that us up to that specification (and can be agreed upon by all of us).

hey what’s up, love your site and your reviews, definitely helped on some decisions with products between the group of us, but i got some questions for ya bud, would you be able to tell me what chargers these are in the bottom of this pic and what power supply you guys run for your chargers?

thanks man
Duane N.

Dynamite Speedpack

Cubby- Hola Duane, thanks for the mad props yo (read that assuming I’m using my Jesse Pinkman voice).

What are the chargers in the bottom of that pic? They are some of our ATF’s (all time favorites), the Duratrax ICE. The ICE chargers have been out for years but are still available for about $100. They charge multiple chemistries and are generally a good solid charger. However, because they were designed years ago, they don’t have built in cell balancing, they are not of particularly high output, and they tend to take a long time to fully charge a Lipo. Still, we use them day in and day out to get great quality charges into our packs.

The two chargers on top are Hyperion 720iNet3′s. Pretty much state of the art Lipo chargers that have high output for quicker charging and built in balancing. They are rock solid, worry free, performers that are extremely easy to use.

About power supplies around the ultra luxurious BigSquidRC offices- we primarily use Maxamps. We use 24v DC MaxAmps power supplies when using high output battery chargers, and 12 volt MaxAmps and Competition Electronics power supplies for less demanding applications. We use the MaxAmps power supplies because they are quite affordable and we’ve yet to have any issues with them. We charge a lot of batteries on a daily basis, dependability is of the utmost importance to us, the MaxAmps power supplies do an excellent job and we never have to worry about them.

That’s it for this week, shoot me your questions and you just might see your name on our front page. If your question does make the front page you’ll get some free BigSquidRC stickers, and if I pick yours as letter of the month we’ll totally hook ya up with a free t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter

While hanging out in the Helion RC room at the Hobby Town Convention 2012, we got to check out the new hop-up parts coming soon for the Dominus.

The parts on the ‘soon’ list are:
Slipper Clutch, Aluminum Wheel Hex Set, Center Differential, Aluminum Battery Mounts, Aluminum Rear Hub Carriers, Aluminum Threaded Shocks, and a Universal Drive Shafts for front and back. As soon as we can get our hands on these, expect a review as we add them to our ‘Modding the Dominus’ series.

Speaking of which, if you are interested, you can check out many of the Modding the Dominus articles HERE.

Recently there was a buzz around the net about the Sharpie Ferrari. Well, leave it to our resident painter/scale guy/artist Manny to hook up our Helion RC Dominus with a Pro-Line Flo-Tek body all sharpie’d out! What’s cool is that he incorporated lots of the logos from our sponsors in the paint as well as a awesome version of our Big Squid on the front.

We think it came out pretty awesome, and these pictures do not do it justice! If you happen to see us as a bash or event, make sure you check it out in person.

Want to do some cool mods to your Helion Dominus? Read all of our ‘Modding the Helion Dominus’ right HERE. Need more Pro-Line news? We got that for you HERE.

Modding The Helion Dominus Part 6 – Installing An Upgrade Body

pro-line dominus body

When we first got the Helion RC Dominus, the guys around the BigSquid office really liked the looks of the stock body. While the stock body looks good it does have a couple of downsides- it tends to break after heavy beatings, and there are getting to be a lot of Dominus trucks at local bash areas, so many in fact that it’s hard to tell which one is yours because they all look the same. This week I’ll be showing you what it takes to mount an upgrade body on your Domimus.

Modding The Helion Dominus Part 5 – Installing Upgraded Off Road Tires

pro-line badlands

The Helion Dominus has proven itself an extremely poplar bash machine, so popular in fact that it won BigSquid’s March Bashness contest against some very stiff competition. Many of the people that have chosen the Dominus as their basher of choice use it strictly off road. While the stock Dominus tires do a sufficient job off road, they are far from offering the best traction possible. Over the last few months we have tried a multitude of different tires on our Dominus and have determined that we like the Pro-Line Badlands the best for all around off road bashing.

Here is what is needed to properly install a set of Pro-Line Badlands on your Dominus….


Modding The Helion Dominus Part 4 – Installing A Brushless System

helion dominus

No other single modification will give your Dominus such a dramatic increase in shear power as the installation of a brushless power system. Today I’ll be walking you through what it takes to install a brushless motor and speed controller in your Helion Dominus. If you are an old pro you can do this in your sleep but if you are new to the hobby I hope these instructions help you out.



question for ask cubby
I have a Losi SCTE on your recommendation and I love it. I am setting up another one for my brother since he lives close to NorCal Hobbies and it is one of the more popular classes. I wanted to know if you had any issues with the Castle Sidewinder SCT with the 1410 motor in that truck. I have read on the forums that some people have tried it and had thermal issues with the ESC, but your review did not mention any ESC overheating problems. It seems like a good value for what I am trying to do. Thanks.

BTW, I wore my bigsquid shirt to the track last month and got props from Race Director Big Steve, he says he knows you guys.

Tom N.

Cubby- What’s up Tom, expect some BSRC Stickers headed your way sometime soon. (send Brian your info)

When we tested the Losi SCTE it was late winter/early spring in our area, so it was driven mostly at cool indoor venues and when we drove it outdoors the ambient temps were quite low. Yes, we originally ran our SCTE on a Sidewinder but ran into temp issues when it warmed up outside or when we geared it for serious speed. I would not recommend running a Castle Sidewinder speedo in the Losi SCTE or any 4wd short course truck for that matter. I consider the Castle Max Pro SCT to be the best speedo for that application, although you can easily toss a Mamba Monster in there (if you have the extra bucks) and you’ll never, ever have to worry about speedo issues. I also consider the Castle 1410 3800 to be the motor of choice if you plan on running on 2S, if you run on 3 or 4S the Castle 1415 2400kv is the better choice.

Peace and love, peace and love.

Hey Cubby,
I’m a big fan of your website and saw the “Modding the Helion Dominus” page. I was wondering what brushless system you would recommend for me to install in my Dominus. I got it last Christmas but I’ve gotten used to the speed and need some more.
Also, would you recommend modifying the battery tray to fit two NiMH batteries instead of running a LiPo? I have NiMH batteries and don’t really want to spend the money to buy a $80 LiPo when I could get more power by running two NiMHs.

Evan J.

Cubby- Yo yo yo, MTV Raps Evan.

Hummmmm…. what affordable brushless system would I recommend for your Dominus? I (somewhat) recently reviewed the Viper Copperhead R 550 BL system (read it here ) and I can say first hand that it’s a good bang for the buck. The Viper will instantly turn your Dominus from “mild” to “wild” and it will instantly put a huge grin on your face. Plus, because the Dominus doesn’t use a center diff you’ll be able to pull some gnarly wheelies with it. 4wd short course wheelies are great fun no doubt.

Btw, I hear Helion has some hop-up parts on the way for the Dominus to make sure it’ll be able to handle crazy brushless power. We have not had a problem with ours, but then we’ve only run ours on 2S, I’d guess the hop-up parts are to help keep the truck together on higher cells counts/power levels.

About your battery question…

I would not recommend installing two Ni-mh packs in the Dominus for these reasons…

1. It’s gonna be a serious PITA to get them to fit properly and to be properly secured. Perhaps the worst designed part of the Dominus is its battery tray.
2. Because Ni-mh’s are so heavy they are really going to throw off the weigh distribution of the truck. This will result in a truck that turns differently from left to right and the way it jumps will be negatively affected.

I would recommend you use a single Ni-mh pack on a new brushless system. BL will give you a huge leap in power over stock and a single Ni-mh will fit and work just fine (assuming you are using decent quality Ni-mh cells and NOT the stock battery pack).

That’s it for this week ya bunch of crazy hooligans, hit me with your questions at Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your question makes the front page you’ll get some uber BSRC stickers, and if I pick yours as the question of the month you’ll get a ultra-trick Squid t-shirt.

YOUR Cub Reporter


Dominus Wins!?
Are you guys as amazed as I am (as well as everyone I know) that the Dominus, a truck that you simply can’t bash with, won the bashing bracket? That truck is such a piece of shit! Sure it’s cheap, but at $200 it can’t even drive up a jump. Is bashing considered driving around slowly in a circle on gravel?
It would have been nice to see the Revo or the 5T in the finals. But I am pretty shocked by this result.
Just curious what you guys really think.
Thanks for running a crazy bracket!
Adam H.

Cubby- Hola amigo, what be up?

Am I amazed that the Dominus just won our March Bashness Tournament? Absolutely. Helion is a relatively new company that is only sold through HobbyTown USA franchises, how are they supposed to compete with the all the big names? In theory they should have had no shot at taking on the “Big Boys” and kick’n their butts, but thats precisely what they did. Helion not only wanted the win badly, mounting an effective campaign to get the word out to vote for the Dominus, but they’ve sold a LOT of those trucks in the last 6 months to people that read BigSquid. If you want to know how the Dominus won, that’s how I see it.

Is it really bashing to drive slow circles on gravel? Is it any fun to drive over rocks at less than 1 mph like the crawling guys do?

To you and me the experienced hobbyist, yes, absolutely, the Dominus is painfully slow, but I don’t see that as a critical problem.Why? Because… if you are a mainstream noob the power is perfect to learn with, if you are an long time rc’er you are gonna be slap’n in your own brushless system and would rather not pay up front for one you’ll never use.

While the Dominus making it past the first round of March Bashness was a huge surprise to me (let alone winning the whole thing), I think there was a far bigger surprise from March Bashness 2012- the fact that no HPI or Traxxas products made it into the final four. Both are huge rc companies, both put out good product, so why didn’t they make the final 4? Was it because their basher trucks are older platforms? Did they not sufficiently spread the word to vote? Are average Joe Blow bashers simply growing tired of them? Who knows for sure, but I can assure you the results of our March Bashness have been closely studied by nearly every marketing guy in the industry. I can also assure you that Helion went from being some relatively unknown company to a player that the big boys are keeping closer tabs on.

And one stolen from Brian’s email box…

Battery Shout Out
Hey Brian,
Just read the results of the battery shoot out. Great work but why did you choose a Nano-tech 30c against a Gens Ace 45c? I see that Nano-tech have a 65c. Wouldn’t it have been a fairer comparision pairing this one against the rest? Particularily considering that the Venom was supposed to be a 70c? an the Orion a 90c? I can understand if your answer is “well Gens Ace dont make a 65c”. Well thats fine, but then rather pit Turnigys best against Gens Ace’s best. If it happens to be a 65c vs a 45c then thats too bad so sad.

Hopefully you’ll understand my questioning the veracity of this test and I prefer to ask you in a private email rather than venting through a forum to give you an opportunity to reply.
Best Regards,

Cubby- Well hello there Toby, thanks for the email. I am posting your question here in ASK Cubby because we have received a bunch of “why didn’t you test this or that pack” emails since our last shootout, yours is a prime example.

Why did we choose the Turnigy Nano 30C and not their 65C? The simple answer is- we didn’t chose any of the packs except the Traxxas which we bought (they wouldn’t send us one). Anyways… we asked all the battery companies to shoot us their best 2S 5800 and we tested what we received.

Why did Turnigy send us their 30C Nano pack? I haven’t asked them so I do not know, nor will I speculate on the matter. What I will say is that I think people put far too much credence into the “C” ratings printed on the labels. It is rare for the highest “C” rated pack (or the most expensive, or the largest capacity) to win one of our shootouts. Having a higher “C” rating does not instantly mean it will fair better in one of our shootouts because we use so many different factors to determine an overall winner. If I was a battery manufacture sending out a pack for a BigSquid shootout I’d look at the entire product line and pick the one that best fit the BigSquid test criteria, not simply the one with the highest “C” rating or price point.

That’s it for this week ya bunch of brosteppers, shoot me your questions, answers, requests, and lightly used Harry Winston watches to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!

YOUR Cub Reporter

helion dominus

In most trucks popping in a new Lipo battery is easy, they just drop right in! Unfortunately that isn’t the case with the Helion Dominus. Stock, the battery tray in the Dominus is set up for use with the included 7 cell 1800 mah Ni-MH. When attempting to drop in a ROAR sized Lipo you will find the stock battery tray is too long and not tall enough.

Keep reading to see what is needed to properly install a ROAR sized Lipo in your Helion Dominus. READ MORE