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Posts Tagged ‘slash

Luxury RC Aluminum Tie BarYou know that fiberglass bar that holds the front hinge pins on your Traxxas 2wd? They have been know to break and they definitely don’t look high tech. The folks over at Luxury RC have new aluminum front tie bars that not only look high-zoot, but are also tougher than stock. These are available in four different colors- blue, red, silver, and black, and they don’t break the bank at only $7. The tie bars are made from 6061 aluminum and fit popular vehicles like the 2wd Slash, Rustler, and Stampede. Hit up This Link for more information over on the official Luxury RC website.

Click Right Here for a stunning TGIF Mystery Link.

RPM Spare Tire Carrier Traxxas Slash
I don’t have to tell you guys that it’s all about scale realism now days. You see it creeping into more new car releases, and we see the trend every time we go bashing.

The good guys over at RPM have announced a Spare Tire Carrier that fits the Traxxas Slash 2wd and 4×4. Their spare tire carrier is a great way of adding a touch of scale realism to your Slash and will certainly help give it a great custom look. Made from RPM’s ultra tough blend of nylon, you won’t have to worry about it breaking any time soon.

The part number is #70502, they are priced at $14, and they are expected to start shipping in about 3 weeks. Complete details can be found at This Link on the official RPM website.

Click Right Here for the first TGIF Mystery Link of the day.

Pro-Line 2013 Ram 1500 True Scale Clear Body
The crew over at Pro-Line aim to please, and today they’ve made Ram fans very happy. The new 2013 Ram 1500 True Scale Body from Pro-Line was made to turn your old short course truck into a scale looking truck that has been lifted. The PL Ram 1500 is fully licensed and also has the scale detailing everyone is after. Made to fit Slash, Slash 4×4, PRO-2, and SC10 2wd, this body should really turn heads at your local bash spot.

The part number for the Ram 1500 is #3420-00, it has a street price of $35, and you can hit up This Link to get full details.

Get more PL news at This Link on BigSquidRC.

ChuckWorksRC Slice A-S Traxxas Slash Chassis
So we were outside bashing the other day, hitting a big ramp and landing to pavement, just like many bashers do. Towards the end of the session Brian hucks a Traxxas Slash 2wd sky-high and landed right on the rear end. The truck couldn’t move afterwards because the motor was broken from the big impact.

The ChuckWorksRC Slice A-S chassis has been out for quite some time now, it’s an LCG and Mid-Motor conversion for the Slash 2wd. Going LCG and mid-motor can really help the handling of the Slash, but more importantly for bashers, because the motor is tucked safely away in front of the rear shock tower it makes it nearly impossible to destroy one from a bad landing.

ChuckWorksRC has several versions of LCG/mid-motor conversions, the one pictured here is the Slice A-S made for the battery to run down the center of the chassis. Most versions cost around $80 and are constructed out of G-10 fiberglass and industrial grade plastics. To get more information on everything that ChuckWorksRC makes simply hit THIS LINK

Looking for more Traxxas news? Check out THIS LINK right here on BigSquidRC.

Cubby

I Have a stock brushless 2wd Slash and want to upgrade to Anza LCG or Proline LCG chassis but keep everything else stock. I bash w/ some backyard racing. Which would you recommend?

I’ve looked closely at both BSRC reviews but Proline review was w/ completely upgraded parts & Anza was stock. I know proline is a sponsor and don’t want to create problems so will not post response. Any help you can give is much appreciated. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
Sincerely,
Jerry H.

Cubby- Congrats Jerry, I proclaim your email as the “letter of the month”. Shoot Brian your snail mail (don’t forget your shirt size) so we can ship you out a new BSRC t-shirt.

Actually, both Pro-Line and Anza (Firelands/HobbyTown USA) are advertisers with us. Thankfully both “get it” and know we don’t hold punches for advertisers. If I said one or the other totally sucked I’m quite confident neither company would freak over it. They advertise with us because of who we are, because we aren’t afraid to say what needs to be said.

To get to your actual question- I’ve driven both chassis kits on Slashes that were bone stock. But… I’ve never driven them back-to-back.

Due to the fact we haven’t driven them back-to-back with stock running gear I can’t give you a real world, definitive answer on this one. Both kits improve cornering, both are well made, and both take a pretty serious beating in the field. It would really take a shootout to give you a proper first hand answer and I don’t see that happening any time soon.

However… if it was up to me (and cash out of my own pocket), I’d go with the Pro-Line. IMO it’s slightly more sano, slightly easier to install, and replacement parts can be found easier (Pro-line parts can be had by most any hobby shop in the country, where as Anza parts are a HobbyTown USA exclusive). But, and there is always a but, if you have a HobbyTown USA close to you and you like the look and/or price of the Anza, it is a quality unit, don’t hesitate to bust out the cash. To boil it down, both are very good, you won’t be disappointed with either.


Hi, so I put sand tires on my blitz and after the first time I drove it, the spur gear got destroyed, I mean, all the teeth got destroyed, the center of it got all messed up, and the slipper pads look like they melted.

It is all stock except for a strc motor plate, a sidewinder 3 system, 3s lipo, and aluminum rear shocks. Are there some upgrades, and techniques you guys know so that doesn’t happen every time I drive it in the sand. I really want to turn my blitz into a really high performance sand machine, that is very reliable.
thanks,
James D.

Cubby- Hey ya James, thanks for the email. Shoot Brian your info (Brian at BigSquidRC.com) so he can send you a BSRC sticker pack for your Blitz.

Ok, James, there are two things you can do here.
1. Extensively mod your Blitz by “bomb proofing” your entire drive-train.
2. Take some time and carefully set your slipper.

Route #1 is expensive and can take some serious wrench time, but in the end you should be able to drive your Blitz like it owes you money without any issues.

Route #2 just takes time.
At one time a slipper was used as a type of traction control coming out of slick corners on a track. Now days, under huge Lipo power, it’s used more like a shock absorber for your vehicles drive-train. But the problem is- setting a slipper on 2S is a snap, setting it for 3S is harder, and setting it for 3S on a high grip surface (like sand) can be a real challenge.

From your email it sounds like you initially had your slipper set too loose, therefore it got hotter than the core of the sun and melted down, eventually locking up completely. After it melted, becoming one mass of semi-molten goo, you ended up blowing out your spur gear because the slipper was no longer working.

My recommendation to you is to go the cheap way first. Put in the time to properly set your slipper for your power and traction level.
Here is the process-
1. Pound the gas from a dead stop. If it slips it’s too loose. Keep tightening until it doesn’t slip from a dead stop. If it slips from a dead stop it will get too hot under hard driving conditions.

2. Bust out a temp gauge. Seriously, trust me on this one, do not be tempted to use your fingers. Drive your Blitz hard for one minute (no more) then pull it in and check the temp of the slipper. If the temp is above 140 F, tightening it up a bit. If the slipper is ambient temp, it’s not working at all so loosen it up slightly. Keep driving for short 1 minute stints until you find the setting where it’s not getting too hot, yet is still actually working.

3. If you have to error, error on the side of the slipper being slightly too tight.

4. You’ll need to re-adjust your slipper for different traction and power levels. Time consuming yes, but just the way it is.

Have fun, go fast, and hook us up with some sweet 30 foot rooster shots of your Blitz when you get it dialed.


That’s it for this week ya freaks. Shoot your questions, manifesto’s, and rants to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your email makes the big-time you’ll get a free sticker pack, if I proclaim yours as “letter of the month” we’ll hook ya up with a brand spank’n new BSRC t-shirt (even in your size!).
YOUR Cub Reporter

Pro-Line Trenchers Pre-Mounted on Renegade Wheels
What is possibly the best tire you can put on your short course truck for bashing? Pro-Line Trencher X SC’s of course, and now they are available pre-mounted on black Renegade wheels.

The Trencher X’s and Renegade combo make not only a very scale looking combination, but also a great performer out in the dirt. With them now being pre-mounted they save you the time and frustration of the entire gluing process.

Pro-Line has Trencher X pre-mounts available to fit vehicles like the Traxxas Slash and Slash 4×4, the HPI Blitz, Associated SC10 4×4, Pro-Line ProTrac Slash, and Losi Ten SCTE. Part numbers are #1190-13 and #1190-18, and you can hit THIS link for more information. Street price is $35 per pair.

How about some more short course truck news? Find more at THIS link right here on BigSquidRC.

Traxxas Ford Raptor in White
Need a replacement body for your Traxxas Raptor truck? Want to add a new look to your Traxxas Slash? If so, Traxxas has just announced their new Ford F-150 SVT Raptor Body in White. It comes pre-painted saving you time and comes pre-trimmed and ready to mount up. Even the decals have been put on for you!

The part number is #5814X and it has a retail price of $75. For more information on all of the fine products from Traxxas hit up their Official Website.

We’ve made it through another week, how about a TGIF Mystery Link?

MIP Super Diff Kit Losi TLR 22 22T 22SCT
The Super Diff kits from MIP are legendary for their smooth operation and reliability. Now all you TLR/Losi 22, 22T, and 22SCT owners can rejoice, MIP has just released a new Super Diff for your rig. Part number for the new MIP 22 Super Diff is #12165, and here are some of the features-

* Hardened Alloy Steel for superior strength and Wear!
* American made High Strength diff rings!
* Precision machined for excellent bearing fits!
* MIP Team Tested and Approved!
* Does not include Diff Gear & Stock sealed Bearings!
* Quality made in the USA!


MIP Super Diff Traxxas SlashMIP didn’t forget about all you Traxxas Slash drivers, their new #12225 Super Diff pops right into your Slash and helps bring it up to competition level. Some of the features of the MIP Super Diff for the Traxxas Slash include-

* American made High Strength diff rings!
* Improves overall traction during cornering!
* Precision machined for Excellent Bearing Fit
* Hardened U.S. Grade Alloy Steel for Superior Strength & Wear
* Includes MIP Pin Screws for use with Traxxas Stock Drives, MIP X-Duty™, & MIP C-CVD™ Drives
* Lightweight to reduce rotating mass!
* 100% Quality made in the USA!

Retail price for the Losi diff is $35, while retail price for the Traxxas diff is $60. For more information hit up the official MIP Website.

Looking for even more MIP news? Click THIS link for more MIP news right here on BigSquidRC.

THE Pro-Line Pro-2 Performance Parts Review

Pro-Line Traxxas Slash Pro-2 Performance Parts

Pro-Line Racing keeps introducing more upgrade parts for the immensely popular Traxxas Slash platform. Today we’ll be taking a look at some of their newest performance parts to determine if they live up to Pro-Line’s legendary reputation and if they are worth your time and money. Come on, lets take a closer look…

READ MORE

Pro-Line Pro-2 Front Hub Kit
Pro-Line has just announced some new performance accessories for your Pro-2 Traxxas Slash. If you want the best performing Slash at the local bash spot, Pro-Line performance parts are the way to go.

Part #6101 is a high performance PRO-2 Front Hub kit. This comes with all new Steering Knuckles and C-Hubs, it has extra camber adjustment holes, and is more durable than the stock parts. Expect a street price of around $25 on this one.

Part #6102 is their hard anodized pivot ball and rod end set. Stock Traxxas rod ends are prone to binding, the Pro-Line set-up is said to be buttery smooth. Street price $29.

Part #6104 is a hard anodized front hinge pin brace. This aluminum brace is light yet strong, and has the Pro-line logo laser etched on the front. Street price $10.

For more information on these and all of Pro-Line’s fine products HERE is the link to their official website.

We have a lot more Pro-Line news right HERE on BigSquidRC.

Cubby

Aloha Guys,

Read all your shoot outs and reviews and settled on the Turnigy 2s 5800mah lipos. Cheapest because shipping is sore. Bought 3 and charging them all on my icharger 206b they all only charged up to 4200mah. All three. Made sure to check all my settings on the charger but everything looks good. Do you have any of your readers asking the same question or get the same switched battery like me?
Any way we have a small track that we are building on Kauai for the neighborhood so if you’re ever out, come bash some with us. I race my 9 yr old boy (stampede vxl) against my slash vxl and suffice to say, ” he crushes me every time , but at least we play together.
Mahalo,
Keoni Kahn M.

Cubby- Hey Keoni, thanks for the email, and be sure to shoot Brian your snail mail on the islands so he can totally hook ya up with an uber BigSquidRC sticker pack.

First off, I’d highly doubt you’d be emailing me if you didn’t know how to measure capacity, but perhaps for others out there this is how we do it at BigSquidRC (and they way most cell manufactures do it, when they actually make the effort to do so).
Fully charge pack at a 1C charge rate. Discharge pack at a 1C rate down to 3 volts per cell, measure capacity during the dis-charge- that’s how it’s done.

So let’s say you are dialed and indeed you received 3 mis-labeled battery packs. You ordered their 5800′s, and you got mystery packs with a 5800 sticker that are roughly 4200 mah in capacity. What do you do? Well…. you can- 1. attempt to return them, or 2. attempt to run them. Best of luck if you attempt to return, and if you decide to run them, treat them as 4200′s of unknown “C” rating. By this I mean, charge at a gentle 1C rate, and monitor temps during a moderate discharge to see if they will be able to handle the current draw of the application you will be using them in. Because they are mystery cells, you have no idea if they were intended for a 1/2C discharge in the medical field, or for a 40C discharge in an rc airplane, so be careful.

Oh and heck yes, if any of the BigSquidRC crew hit the beautiful islands of Hawaii we will totally come over for an uber-bash session.


I have a couple of questions, first

1) What is the best power system for my rustler that can get me to about 40 MPH thats under 50 bucks?

2) Can i use traxxas XO-1 tires and rims on it? i dont have a use for the offroad tires that came with it.

Thanx, a important follower

Cubby- Because we’ve been receiving this email every week for quite some time, yes, I’ll finally take precious time out of my busy schedule to finally respond.

1. There is no BL power system that I would recommend to you for under $50. For your Rustler I’d recommend stepping it up to the Castle SCT Sidewinder 3800 kv combo at right around $120. Your Rustler isn’t exactly the free-est spinning truck in the world, the plastic motor mount sucks (I highly recommend the PL tranny, or at the very least the RPM motor mount), and you’ll be running high speed with it, that’s why I am recommending you pop for a quality unit at a higher price point.

2. XO-1 rims use a 17mm hex, the stock hex on your Rusty is 12mm, so no, they will not bolt right up. You can use hex adapters (I’d use the STRC units), but you’d be looking $50+ for the adapters, plus the cost of the XO-1 wheels and tires. And… the XO-1 tires are freak’n heavy, that means a lot of rotating mass to turn over at speed.

So let’s say you are looking to go an honest 40-50 mph with your Rustler, this is the set-up I’d recommend.

1. Brushless power system. I mentioned the Castle 3800 SCT system above, and it’s a great choice for your truck and application.

2. 3S 11.1v Lipo battery. I’d go with the Dynamite Speedpack that we reviewed HERE .

I recommend that pack because it’s hardcase and has proven itself to us over months of bashing abuse. This pack is taller than stock, so you’ll have to make some changes to properly secure it, but I assure you it’ll be worth the effort.

3. Street tires. For you I’d recommend Pro-Line Street Fighter 2.8″ pre-mounts. These are a street tread that should easily get you into the low 50′s.

4. Use Gearchart.com to make sure you aren’t gearing your truck too tall and use a temp gauge to keep from cooking any electronics. If you are looking to go 50, gear it for 50, not 110. Start slow, and slowly gear taller to increase your mph (if you want to save yourself loads of cash and wrenching).

Go straight, go fast, and don’t blow too much stuff up Mr VIP.


Do you have 2S lipo battery pack with 65C?
Or you have the best battery for electric car on road for the fastest speed?
Speeder
Sent from my iPhone

Cubby- Oh wow we get questions from some nut jobs out there…

So…. to answers your questions-
1. maybe
2. of course

(sigh)

Hello my name is BRANDON H. and I have been a rc hobbyist for about 3 years. I presently have a traxxas slash raptor edition. Everything on truck is custom. Except trans. My truck had the element combo from duratrax and castle creation. I wanted a
bigger stronger and faster esc and motor. So I bought the castle creation momba short course with the 2400 kv motor. Not knowing that it’s not recommended for 2wd. What will happen if I run this. What do I need to get for my truck to support this
motor?? I have pictures and I’m willing to send upon request.

Thank you for your time
Brandon H.

Cubby- Now see guys, this is how you ask a proper question. You give a decent amount of info, and say thank you are the end. Brandon gets it.

So Brandon, you have everything else uber’ed-out on your truck except the tranny. Hummm…. I think I see a Pro-Line tranny in your future. 1. Because how can you leave that the only stock part on the truck, and 2. because you are gonna need it if you crank up the power on that 1415 2400 kv Castle motor in your Traxxas.

To get to your direct questions-

1. What will happen when you run a Castle 1415 2400 kv motor in your Slash/Raptor compared to your previous set-up? Nothing bad. Your new motor is certainly capable of higher torque and overall power levels, but it is lower kv, meaning your truck won’t go as fast on the same gearing and cell count as your previous system. However, if you are gear taller, and/or jump to a higher cell count, you’ll be amazed at how much power you’ll have on tap.

2. What do you need to get your truck to support that motor? Nothing really, it will bolt right up the same way as your old motor. The 1415 is the same diameter as your old motor, but is slightly longer, which won’t be a problem in your application. However, with the identical set-up it’ll probably feel slower than what you were using, so if you leave everything else the same you won’t have to make any changes. If you do decide to unleash the power via gearing and/or cell count then you might want to seriously consider that Pro-Line tranny. Not only is the PL tranny capable of handling some serious power, but its metal motor mount really helps keep motor temps down. As always, if you do decide to go for big power, consult Gearchart.com to make sure you aren’t crazily over-geared, and use a temp gauge to make sure you aren’t cooking anything. Ideal temps are below 140 on the motor and below 120 on the battery pack.


That’s it for this week guys, shoot me your questions, answers, smack-talk, or anything else you want to ramble on about to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your question makes the big time you get free stickers, if I pronounce yours as “letter
of the month” we’ll shoot ya out a new BSRC t-shirt.

traxxas dakar

traxxas dakar We finally got some official news/specs on the Traxxas Robby Gordon Edition Dakar Slash. We have made a few posts about this vehicle now. We first reported HERE about a very trick Speed Energy Robbie Gordon Traxxas truck, and then we posted a bunch of pictures here. This time around we have a picture of a second body, and some details.

The truck is actually available right now, it comes with the new TQ 2.4GHz radio, 7 cell NiMh 3000mAh 8.4v battery, metal gear transmission, speeds of 30 mph+ with optional 23 tooth pinion gear (included), Titan 12T 550 motor, XL-5 ESC, and is brushless ready with their new slipper clutch system.

Traxxas Model number is #5804.

Looking for other Traxxas news on BigSquidRC? Click HERE to check it out.

RPM Gearbox housing and motor plate for Traxxas Slash/Stampede/Rustler
If you are a loyal electric Traxxas Slash, Stampede, Bandit, or Rustler owner, then you already know some of the downside of the stock gearbox. One of the biggest problems is the motor bolts to a plastic plate rather than metal, not giving a place for all that motor heat to dissipate to.

RPM Products is legendary in the bashing world and are proud to announce their new hybrid gearbox housing and rear mounts for Traxxas electric 2wd’s. The kit comes with a new gearbox case, a 3mm thick 6061 aluminum motor plate, and 0 degree and 3 degree rear mounts. You can get the kit in three different colors- blue, green, and black, and they have a retail price of only $30. Also, each kit has been designed and manufactured right here in the USA. Hit up the RPM Website for more information on all their uber-basher products.

Want to completely re-do the rear end of your Slash/Pede/Rustler/Bandit? Check out THIS link.

Looking for more RPM news here on BigSquidRC? Click right HERE.