ECX has some updated versions of their popular 2wd brushed vehicles. The update looks to be a LiPo compatible ESC, and while the price stays the same on the Boost buggy ($149), prices go up $20 for the Ruckus, Circuit, and Torment to $189.
Posts Tagged ‘torment sc’
For all you ECX owners, the good folks over at RPM RC have announced Front A-Arms for the Torment, Ruckus, and Circuit. In typical RPM fashion, the new arms were designed for extreme use, built much beefier than that stock units, yet with tighter tolerances to reduce slop. Larger bosses are used in the hinge pins areas to reduce breakage, while angled leading edges help the arms slide over objects. RPM also removed the tiny outer hinge pin screws, replacing them with an in-line screw to help improve overall strength. They also come with RPM’s limited lifetime warranty against breakage for piece of mind.
The part number for the arms is #70582, they have a street price of $12 per pair, and they should start hitting hobby shops later this month. For complete information hit up This Link to head over to the RPM website.
Click Right Here for more RPM news on BigSquidRC.
Torment Xtreme LCG Kit
I have a new Torment and I’m interested in putting an Xtreme LCG kit on my truck. My only question is, what is the ground clearance after you put the Xtreme LCG kit on the Torment? How does this truck compare to a 2wd Slash with the STRC LCG kit on it as far as handling goes?
I want to buy another Torment for my 6 yr. son so we can go to our local track and race in the 2wd stock class. I was thinking that if the Slash with STRC kit on it is a much better setup than the Torment, I would give my Torment to my son, and buy a Slash for myself and put the STRC kit on it. I would of course put the Xtreme kit on the Torment for my son. Thanks.
Cubby- Guess what Bryan? I proclaim your email as “Letter of the Month”, shoot Brian your snail mail so we can hook ya up with a free t-shirt.
We haven’t tested the Xtreme LCG set-up for the ECX Torment, so I can’t state first hand what it handles like or if it’s worth the cashola. What advice I will give you is this- if both you and your son plan on running at the track it will be cheaper/easier to keep spare parts if you both run the same machine. If you run a Slash and he runs an ECX, you’ll need parts for both, while if you both run the same thing you can pick up a beater off eBay or Craigslist and have a spare of everything on hand while you bash. And remember, it’s not a matter of if you’ll need parts, it is a matter of when and how many, so you will be needing plenty of spares.
A stock 2wd Slash drives well, dropping it with the STRC LCG kit makes it even better at a reasonable price. Should you decide to go that direction you certainly won’t be disappointed.
Enjoy your new BigSquidRC shirt and let me know what you ended up buying for a second vehicle.
I have an Ofna Hyper 10SC Nitro Truck that I want to convert to electric…
Can you help me with a kit or other ideas?
Cubby- Yo hey Mario, thanks for the email.
So… you want to convert your nitro Ofna 10SC to electric. I think I would probably skip that process, and here’s why. By the time you buy a conversion kit, buy all the electronics and spend the time doing the install, you probably could have spent a few more bucks and bought a brand new Losi SCTE RTR or Slash 4×4 RTR. So while it certainly is possible to convert your truck over, I would sell the nitro and pick up a new ride that comes out of the box kick’n electric power. Just my 2 cents, but then I’m ultra lazy and hate wrenching.
That’s it for this week ya freaks, shoot me your questions, rants, and epic meltdowns to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your letter makes the big time you’ll get a free sticker pack, if I proclaim yours as “Letter of the Month” (like I did Bryan’s this week) you’ll win a free BSRC t-shirt. Be cool, shoot me your letters.
YOUR Cub Reporter
A Dynamite 3300kv 4 pole brushless motor is used to give the two trucks a healthy increase in power, while heavy duty driveshafts help to make it bulletproof. The part number for the new brushless Torment is #ECX03008, while the brushless Ruckus has a part number of #ECX03009. Expect both trucks to come fully RTR and have a street price of right around $289.
ECX Brushless Ruckus & Torment Gallery
I have a ECX Torment that I am modding, and would like to know what kind of shocks/shock oil I should get for asphalt bashing. I already put in a brushless system, a metal transmission, and some street shoes. I would prefer is the shocks were 20-35 buck for eah front or rear set. ( total cost of 70 bucks or less).
Cubby- Yo hey Marcus, thanks for the email, shoot me or Brian your snail mail so we can get ya out a big ole’ sticker pack.
I see that you have two options-
1. Install new uber shocks
2. Retain the stockers and tune them up
For going route #1- buy new Pro-Line Powerstroke shocks. These are slightly out of your budget but worth the extra cash. They’re tough, look awesome, and work like butter. Start by installing Associated 40 weight oil front and rear and ditching the stock two-stage springs. I say this because a straight rate spring will work better for on-road use, so install Losi “blue” springs front and rear. That should be a good baseline, then tune from there for your driving style and grip levels.
Route #2- Install Associated 70 weight oil in the front and 50 weight in the rear. Keep the stock rear springs, but go with Associated “red” springs in the front. This should be a good baseline for running on pavement or other high grip surfaces.
Whether you go route #1 or #2- Set ride height to arms slightly below level front, and bones slightly below level rear. This helps keep your CG down while still having more than enough travel to soak up road joints and the occasional rock. This is also fine for small jumps like curbs and such. Install washers to limit down travel under the shock pistons. You don’t need a bunch of down-travel when driving on-road, when you limit some out your truck will stay lower and be faster in the corners. Start with 5mm of spacers under each piston and go from there. Have fun, go fast, send pictures of your beast when you are done.
I have the Vaterra Glamis Uno. I read your review and I found it accurate. At the end you gave workability a D, which I find fair, but there was nothing difficult about setting gear mesh. It you meant taking off the cover, just unscrew it, and the bar that makes it impossible to remove, there is a screw in that bar, just to the right before shock. Once removed you can pivot that bar out and then take the cover off. Great review though, it’s an amazing buggy and worth the price.
Cubby- Well ya of course our review was accurate, we aren’t the dinosaur media. LOL But seriously, thanks for the props. And… while you may think adjusting the pinion/spur mesh is great fun, it’s way more time consuming than on a typical buggy/truck. Adjusting mesh is one of the core mechanical jobs on an rc car, it should be easy, not a 5 step process. Understandably, for every upside (scale looks, great handling) there has to be a downside (work-a-bility). Building an rc car from the ground up is a huge series of compromises, and quite frankly I think Vaterra went the right way with the Glamis. I think what they gained in scale appearance and driving prowess was worth the extra wrenching time.
Overall, for bashing purposes, the Glamis Uno is the star of the Vaterra line-up. The Glamis has scale attributes without the downside
of lugging around a huge SCT body, and the stock power system has more than enough yank to do crazy stuff with. On top of all that, it is arguably the best driving 2wd we’ve ever tested. We fight over who gets to drive our review unit, it has a few downsides, but how it drives more than makes up for it.
That’s it for this week ya freaks, shoot your emails to me- Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If yours makes the big-time you’ll get a free sticker pack, if I proclaim yours as “letter of the month” we’ll even send ya a brand spank’n new BSRC t-shirt. YOUR Cub Reporter
We have previously posted about the new upgrades the 10th scale line-up from ECX is receiving for 2013. The upgrades include things like a Spektrum DX2E transmitter, new body designs, wheels/tires, and waterproof electronics.
Now ECX has announced a permanent price drop on their 10th scale vehicles. While prices from other manufactures are going up, ECX is out to save you some cash. The new prices are $149 for the Boost Buggy and the Circuit Stadium Truck, while $169 is the price point for the Torment SCT and the Ruckus Monster Truck. For more information on everything ECX hit THIS LINK for their official website.
How about checking out more ECX News right here on BigSquidRC.
* New bodies/colors
* Spektrum DX2E 2.4GHz transmitters
* Waterproof Spektrum SR201 receivers
* Waterproof Dynamite 15T Tazer ESC
* Heavy duty drive-shafts
* Dynamite 15 turn motors for the Ruckus and Torment
* Dynamite 20 turn motors for the Boost and Circuit
The ECX’s are some of the most popular bashers on the market, the new updates should make them even better. Hit up the official ECX Website for more information.
Stamp it, another week in the books. How about trying your luck on a BigSquidRC TGIF Mystery Link?
Yes, it has been a while, but we don’t just hand these things out to anyone who wants to toss us cash like the other industry awards. The Basher Approved award is probably one of the most sought after awards in the RC world because companies actually have to EARN it! It’s our stamp of approval, and we take this thing pretty seriously now a days.
I’d like to take a moment and congratulate two companies on their products that have made our prestigious list. First is the ARRMA Granite. Not only did this truck win our 2WD Monster Truck Shootout, but it backed up it’s toughness with an insane crash and bash beat down video while we were trying to destroy it.
Next the ECX Torment short course truck. You can read our Updated Review Here to get our overall opinion, but the short version is this truck is indestructible. We have been beating on this truck for months, and it does not even blink. I feel sorry for the hobby shop that bought a bunch of parts to have in stock for people, because they aren’t going to be selling them any time soon.
BASHER APPROVED Gallery
You can read all about our BASHER APPROVED AWARD as well as get more details about the winners, and see other vehicles that have achieved this elite status.
*Handling â€“ 7/10 -* The NeXXt is not the worst driving vehicle weâ€™ve ever tested, but it was pretty darn close.
It’s gets a passing grade even though it’s one of the worst vehicles you’ve ever driven? I think your scale is a bit off.
Cubby- Yo what’s up Jason, thanks for the email and be sure to shoot Brian your snail mail for some of our uber stickers to paste your rig with.
I’ve explained this before, but I’ll post it up again for those readers that may have missed it. Since we’ve gone to the 1-10 rating system we rarely use 6′s or below. For the most part we use 7-10 as sort of a grade system, such as 9-10 being a type of “A” and being superior, an 8-9 being a sort of “B” and being “above average”, etc. Starting in 2013 we will be going to the grade system. Instead of a 1-10, we’ll simply be going by grades, A through F, which in theory should be easier for readers to relate to, and easier for us reviewers to stay consistent with. High hopes, I know.
As far as the NeXXt goes we gave it a 7 out of 10 for handling even though IMO it was one of the worst rc vehicles I’ve driven in the last 30 years. However.. we use multiple testers, and not all felt the same way I did. While I did not enjoy the NeXXt bouncing around like a basketball with 50 psi of air in it, other testers thought that was a blast. Iron Mike couldn’t get enough wheel time with the NeXXt, and each time he got to drive it he would plow straight into the roughest section of track he could find just to get it bouncing all over the place. What was fun to Iron Mike was pure hell to me, and that’s why we use a multitude of testers in pretty much everything we review here. Each and every one of our readers is different, enjoying different handling styles, etc. We attempt to get a broad spectrum of input from our testers because we already know you guys have very diverse tastes, then we attempt to state as many of our opinions as possible to get you guys in the ballpark with whether or not you would enjoy the product.
There it is, and there ya are Jason. If you don’t dig a buggy that bounces around uncontrollably, the NeXXt is NOT for you, but if you are as brain damaged as Iron Mike, you might laugh yourself silly every moment you are pulling trigger on it.
Oh and.. I’m wayyyy too lazy to check, but I would doubt that we’ve issued too many handling scores lower than the one we gave to the NeXXt, if you have some free time research that for me and LMK.
Young bashers vs. new battery tech
I have a truck/battery tech question that I’m seeking expert advice on and believe you can best answer. The forums are filled with so-so or partial answers so I’d like your take on the matter. I’ve been out of the hobby for over 20 years and battery tech has evolved quite a bit.
My kids (4&6 yrs old) have been begging for R/C vehicles and this year Santa is coming to the rescue. The younger one wants a Gravedigger 30th anniversary RTR and the other a HPI Blitz RTR. Both come with LiPo cutoff and brushed motors. While shopping for a charger, I came to the following conclusions. Overnight chargers will not cut it and good NiMh chargers can only handle one battery at a time. I’d need two chargers to keep up with two kids, and we’d still spend most of the day charging. In cutting to the chase, why not just go LiPo, where I can balance charge in parallel – with one potent charger (liking the i-charger 400W). I am eying up the Turnigy Nano-Tech 2S2P 5800 mah batteries which are no more expensive than NiMh and they can provide the desired run times of around 20-30 min. Charging at a 2C rate safely at 5A, I should be able to charge two batteries in a more reasonable amount of time. I’m not interested in speed at this time, but can’t see sinking one dime into NiMh battery tech.
Q1: In keeping with the brushed motors for the time being, are we going to fry motors or ESC’s with this brushed /5800 LiPo set-up sooner than brushed/5000mah NiMh?
Q2: Assuming heat in the motors/ESC is what kills them – and for my newbie kids, top speed is irrelevant, what gearing should I go with?
Q3: Is there another battery tech that is better for my application such as A123′s LiFe – the rumor being it offers lower voltage and is less damaging than the LiPo?
Love the reviews – keep em coming. They led me (and my son) to the Blitz RTR. Also, the 30th anniversary Gravedigger, with 2.4 Ghz resolved my issue with Traxxas putting crap Radios with their basic RTR packages.
Thanks in advance,
Cubby- Wow, a lot to chew on in your email Ed, but thanks for taking the time to write in.
First- to your direct questions.
Q1- Are you going to fry more motors when using a 2S Lipo or when using a 6 cell Ni-Mh? Answer- I have never buckled down and done a somewhat scientific study on that one. The Lipo will maintain a higher voltage under load, thus making your motor faster, but it is much lighter. The Ni-Mh is putting out less voltage/slower, but it’s heavier to hall around. I’ve done impromptu testing on this subject, but it always yielded spotty results for me- sometimes the motor driven off a Lipo lasted longer, sometimes it was the motor being powered by the Ni-Mh. If I had a spare 100 hours or so I’d doing more testing on this for ya, but I don’t, so I’m not going to give you a solid answer on this one.
Q2- What gearing should you go with? I am a big fan of gearing via temp gauge. Your kids may never get the stock motors hotter than 100 F with bone stock gearing due to their driving styles, in that case you could elect to leave gearing stock. Or you may choose to drop a few teeth on the pinion to knock a few mph off the top end (making them easier to drive) and get longer run-times. Whatever you do gearing wise, pick up a cheap temp gauge from your LHS and use it. Below 120 is awesome for motor life, 120-160 is less than optimal, and hotter than that and you start ruining electronics. But… IMO more important than gearing is properly seating the brushes on those RTR brushed motors. Out of the box most RTR brushed motors arc like mad because the brushes are not seated properly to the comm, thus causing lots of extra heat, wasted energy, and short lifespans. Yes, water dipping a RTR motor is time consuming, it might take up to an hour per motor in the water to seat the brushes, but it is well worth it if you are wanting to get the maximum life (and power, and run-time) out of a motor.
Q3- Is there better battery tech out there for your application than A123 LiFe cells? The A123′s have one major downfall, their form factor. They are a PITA to fit properly in most of our vehicles. And yes, 2 cell LiFe vs 2S Lipo, the LiFe are about 1 volt less under load, meaning your truck will feel significantly slower unless you gear up. But… when you gear up you pull more amperage to make the power, making more heat. Lastly, A123 filed for bankruptcy a couple of months ago, and they haven’t been supporting the rc hobby the last couple of years, so I would not recommend you buy them at this time.
My recommendation to you is… wait for it… no, seriously wait for it… Ni-Mh.
I have a 5 yr old son that is getting his first ever rc truck for Christmas this year. In theory I plan on him doing most of his own charging (we’ll see how well that goes.. LOL) so he’s getting a new ECX Torment and four 1800 mah Ni-Mh packs with an old school Dynamite twin peak charger. I’ve water dipped the motor and made sure the slipper is a bit on the loose side so when he pins it WFO against a wall it burns up the slipper and not something else. I’m going Ni-Mh for this reason- you can do stupid stuff to a Ni-Mh and not get into much trouble, that is not the case with Lipo. For years I was paid to burn Lipo’s up, I know first hand how they react in a thermal runaway, and while the chance is small it might happen, I don’t want my 5 year old anywhere near a Lipo fire.
That’s it for this week ya bunch of lunatics, submit your questions, answers, and anything else in that demented brain of yours to Cubby at BigSquidRC.com. If your email makes the big time on our front page you’ll get free stickers, and if I pick yours as letter of the month you’ll be dialed with an uber new BSRC t-shirt.
YOUR Cub Reporter
What say you? What is the best 2 wheel short course available right now?
Keep up the good work
Cubby- Hey what’s up George, thanks for the email and shoot Brian your snail mail so we can hook ya up with a BigSquidRC sticker pack.
The word “best” is a very powerful word. Not that I’m going to skirt around the question, but the word “best” used in conjunction with short course trucks can have many different answers. For example, what is the best turning 2wd SCT? IMO it’s the Venom Gambler in mid-motor configuration. With proper tires and tuning nothing rails corners like the Venom can. What is the best overall handling 2wd SCT? For pure bashing I’d say the Slash, but for track use my vote would go to the Durango. For pure toughness, which is the best? IMO that would go to the ARRMA Fury. Which is the best value? My vote would go squarely to the Torment.
However… none of those “bests” mean a darn thing to you George, or any of our other readers out there. The only “best” you give a dern about is which of those trucks meets your criteria making it the best one for you and your specific needs. Your email you give me absolutely zero specifics to see how you would be using a new SCT, so I would highly recommend you read a bunch of our reviews and make your buying decision based on those.
But… as I attempt to never “dodge” a question, I will blindly say go for the ECX Torment if you are looking to save some bucks, or take home a new Durango DESC210 if you are looking for something for both bashing and track use. But those are just my personal picks, if you would ask one of the other guys sitting around the office I’m quite certain their picks would be different.
I caught the bigsquidrc live show last night and I had to shoot your an email and say that was one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen. Keep it real guys and thanks for taking rc talk to the next level.
Cubby- Hey Henry, thanks for the props on the show. It wasn’t ment to be uber polished, nor some super high buck production, what it was ment to be was just some good ole’ laid back rc bench racing, and I hope it came across that way. Well actually, I hope it was at least worth your time and kept you interested for at least 10 minutes.
First off, expect us to be doing more “BigSquidRC Live” shows each Wednesday evening, for at least a few more weeks to sort out if they are truly worth doing or not. So if you haven’t already made plans, make them now for next Wednesday evening 12/5. It might be at 10 pm CST, but we are also considering 9 pm CST to make it easier on our East Coast viewers.
We had talked for a long time about doing a podcast, but I rarely listen to them. In fact most of our guys don’t listen to podcasts as they take up a lot of time and most come across as boring. We had also talked about doing something video related, but that also sort of fell short of what we were looking to do.
Then… the Google Plus Hangout technology came along, and with most of us being “tech” types we latched onto it. We’ve had a blast over the past few weeks using the technology and we were hoping you guys would enjoy watching us goof around while doing some rc talk. The G+ tech also allows for soooo many possibilities in the future, the current set-up is cool, but I think it will really come to fruition when our readers can join in live on cam as well. Full live video chat between us and our readers is ultimately the goal I think.
We’ll be trying out a bunch of stuff in the coming weeks, everyone please shoot us an email telling us what you think is working, what is worth watching, and what’s not. I think as long as we are all having fun it will be entertaining. Yes certainly its needs some polish, and none of the BSRC staffers are models nor incredible speakers. But… what we are is average Joes just like most of our readers, and I think that relationship can make the “BigSquidRC Live” concept really take off.
That’s it for this week folks, shoot me your questions, rants, rants, or anything else in that deviant mind of yours to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com! If your question makes the bigtime on the front page you’ll get a free sticker pack, if I proclaim your email as “email of the month” we’ll totally hook you up with a free BSRC t-shirt.
YOUR Cub Reporter
I was thinking about putting sway bars on my Traxxas E-Revo but I am not clear on what the benefits will be. Will it just turn better?
You guys rock,
Cubby- Hey now Brent, thanks for the email, be sure and shoot Brian your snail mail so he can hook you up with some stickers. And yes, we do rock.
Before you cut the check and buy sway bars, how about you answer a couple of questions.
1. Does your truck traction roll a lot?
2. Do you find your truck hard to control because it leans too much?
If the answer is yes to both questions, then cut the check. Just fyi, I recommend that you buy the Tekno RC sway bar kit for the E-Revo. It has a very reasonable price and is easy to mount up.
Stock, the E-Revo drives like a marshmallow, the suspension is super soft making the truck lean like crazy whenever it is forced to shift weight from one side to the other. Sway bars will help reduce all the excessive lean, helping to keep the truck flatter when it shifts weight. Typically, in an E-Revo application, sway bars make the truck easier to drive overall, easier to drive in a straight line, and will help reduce traction rolling. If you do a lot of high speed driving on surfaces with a lot of grip sway bars are the way to go.
But… if you are a hardcore off-road type you may be better off without the addition of the sway bars. For instance, if you drive in areas with large dirt clods, you enjoy climbing over rocks, or most of your speeds are quite slow, the addition of sway bars might very well hamper your truck instead of improve it. To boil it down, you need to look at how you drive your truck to determine if your cash is going to be well spent on sway bars or not.
I just bought an ECX Torments and I saw you just did a review on it. I am looking for more speed, what would you recommend to make it faster?
Cubby- What’s up Jeremy and thanks for reading BigSquidRC.
Like mentioned in the review of the ECX Torment the first easy upgrade for speed is using a 2S Lipo instead of the stock 6 cell Ni-MH battery. The Lipo gives it 5 more MPH on the top end, but even more importantly it gives it more yank on the low end and in the mid-range. Double jumps that are impossible to clear with stock power are easily made simply by popping in a decent 2S Lipo pack, and overall the truck is much more fun to drive. Look at our Lipo shootouts for an idea on which brand to buy.
However, if you are looking for serious “blow your hair back” yank you’ll need to ditch the stock speedo and brushed motor. We have not driven the updated Torment with brushless power, but I have personally driven the original Torment (that came with smaller drive-shafts) on BL power many, many, manyyyy times. To keep the powertrain alive I’d recommend sticking to 2S Lipo packs and to moderate kv brushless motors. With a decent brushless system on 2S Lipo you’ll have enough power to triple the doubles and have much more power from top to bottom. On top of that, you should be able to gear for at least another 10 mph on top before getting into any temp issues.
Speaking of which… do not overheat a new brushless motor. When you pick up your new BL system pick up a temp gauge and some spare pinions at the same time. Start small on the pinions and work your way up monitoring the temps as you go. 140 degrees F (and below) is really optimal, and you never want to see your motor hit over 160.
Have fun, go fast, and enjoy that Torment my friend, we sure like ours around the office.
That’s it for this week, submit your questions, suggestions, complaints, and whatever else you can think up to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com. If your email makes the front page not only will you instantly be envied by all your friends, but you’ll also get some sweet BigSquidRC stickers. Also… if I pick yours as letter of the month you’ll win one of our uber t-shirts.
YOUR Cub Reporter
* Torment 2.4 GHz Short Course Truck- $149
* Ruckus 2.4 GHz Monster Truck- $129
* Circuit Stadium Truck- $99
* Boost Buggy- $99
Head on over to the ECX’s official website for more information on all their products.
Have you read out latest shootout that features the ECX Ruckus? You can check it out HERE.
could you maybe do a 3s lipo shootout, possibly 5000mah? and could you do a newer lipo charger shootout? and then maybe a 2.8 monster truck tire shootout?
Cubby- For you readers out there, here’s just a sample of a typical “Would you please do an x/y/z shootout?” email. I’ll take a guess and say we receive 20 or so of these a week. Btw, we welcome each one of these, our shootouts are worthless if we are doing the wrong ones.
So John, could we do a 3S 5000, newer charger, and 2.8 Monster Truck shootout? Sure we “can”, but will we? Well… you’ll definitely be seeing a another Lipo shootout from us in the near future. I hear we are going to see how the Traxxas Lipo’s stack up to the comp this time which should make for some interesting reading.
As far as another charger shootout… that one is still get’n pitched around the office, so I’ll give you a rock solid “maybe” on that one.
And lastly… while I’m not a Monster Trucker, a MT tire shootout sounds cool to me. Like… check’em to see which tire gives the best traction in mud, sand, pavement etc, and see which one lasts the longest etc. Sounds like a lot of fun to me, and hopefully very informative when finished, so who knows? Hit me back with a list of tires you’d like to see go head and head and we’ll see what we can pull off for ya.
hi guys i m from brasil,and my wife let me buy just one more rc….. i want this wiil be the best basher ,racer ,rtr. i think in this 3 models mt4 g3,hpi vorza,hpi savage flux. what do you think guys whats the better choice?
Cubby- Thanks for the email Jonas, and I’m quite jealous you’re in Brazil this time of year.
First off, you wife doesn’t “let” you buy a new rc, you are a man therefore you go get what you want, when you want. When she comes home with with 3 pairs of new shoes you don’t complain, right? If she does have a problem with you buying a new rc car- come home with a new full size car the next time, that should help quiet her down a bit.
So you are gonna buy a new ride and your criteria are….
2. Best Basher/Racer’ between the Thunder Tiger MT4 G3, the HPI Vorza, and an HPI Savage Flux
This one is easy Jonas- While Thunder Tiger is the best basher of those three (IMO), the best basher/racer combined would have to go to the HPI Vorza. Why? The Vorza is a respectable bash machine, yet can throw down fast laps on the track. The Tiger Thunder owns the bashing arena, but would be several seconds a lap slower than the Vorza on the track. So go out and get yourself a new Vorza, it won’t disappoint. Put 4S in it if you are looking for really fast, go 6S if you are look’n for utterly stupid.
Very your welcome.
ECX Torment waterproofing
Hi, my name is Justin and i have an ECX Torment. My Torment is wonderful in every way but one. It isn’t waterproof. Now i know you guys do a lot of reviews and stuff but i was wondering if there was anyway to waterproof my truck. It isn’t very useful in the Chicago area in the winter because it would get wet and short circuit the esc and motor and other vital components. I was wondering if you could suggest anything that i could do to make it more waterproof. I really would like to drive it and not worry about it getting wet. Please email me back with idea’s or suggestions or solutions. Thank you
Cubby- Ya know Justin there are a lot of people in this predicament. Luckily Brian and Bill did a full write up on “Getting Ready for Winter Bashing”. Brian and Bill are both core bashers, so the article was written in a manner that (hopefully) everyone can easily understand and emulate. You can find this write-up in the HobbyTown USA on-line magazine called Hobby Outlook. HERE is the link, the article starts on page 18. If you follow the directions in our write-up your Torment will be ready for the worst conditions mother nature can throw at it.
But… personally I’d just run it without any prep. Why, LOL? Because it would give me the excuse to upgrade to new electronics as soon as the stock ones blow up. But that’s just the way I’m wired, LOL.
Either way, have fun with your Torment. Oh and Justin- I expect pics of your Torment buried in snow.
That’s it for yet another uber edition of ASK Cubby. Shoot me your questions, answers, rants, pics, broken transmitters, bald tires, etc, to Cubby at BigSquidRC dot com!
YOUR Cub Reporter